this much more thorough, thanks BK!
Choosing a Boot
Evaluate Yourself
a. How often do I ride? Once in a while? Weekend Warrior? or Every F***in' day? If you're not going that often, you don't need to spend a lot, unless you're a doctor, lawyer, or drug dealer who wants to look like you belong in a boot ad. If you're riding a lot, you'll definitely appreciate a better boot with nicer features.
b. What type of riding will I be doing? Bunny hill technician, eurocarver, pow slasher, park rat, etc. Depending on different types of riding you may want a boot with a specific flex. One you pin this down, this will help narrow the field.
c. Is it true what they say about having big feet? Yes, there are plenty of boots out there that have a reduced footprint. Wide boards suck, so if you can get into a boot that has a reduced footprint, you may be able to avoid strapping into a door.
d. So easy a caveman can do it. Lacing your boots is now easier than ever. Every company has some sort of speed lacing system. Is it something you want or can do without? No matter what type of lace you break, (standard, boa cable, speed zone, etc.) if you don't have a replacement you're out of luck, so stop being skeptical.
Sizing
Just because your girl likes it big, doesn't mean your feet will
a. Sneaker size != Boot size. The majority of people out there wear their kicks larger than their actual foot size, so don't base your boot size on what size sneakers you wear. Get sized up at a shop or shoe store. Dress shoe sizing will be much more accurate than sneaker sizing. For the love of god, don't get sized right after soccer practice, karate, or anything else that will make your sh** smell worse than the inside of an assh***. Shop kids will appreciate it.
b. Mondo what? Mondopoint is a centimeter measurement of your foot. If you passed first grade math, you can figure out how to convert from US to MP. i.e. 29.0 MP = 2 + 9 = 11 US Conversions tend to skew at the higher end of the range because both measure differently. You really don't need to know this unless you're shopping for a Salomon boot or ski boot.
c. Arch Length. In terms of length, there are two measurements for your feet. Overall length and Arch Length. If one is longer than the other start with the size inbetween and go from there.
d. Barney Rubble feet? Certain boots run wider than others. That's why it's important to find a boot that accomodates the width of your feet.
Fit
Don't be a boot pus**
a. Length. Standing straight you want your toes to be right at the end of the boot. You don't want your toes crammed or curled. Just there. You'll know what feels right. All boots have some sort of foward lean built in. Standing straight your foot is getting pushed foward. Boots are meant to fit correctly in the athletic position (knees slightly bent). As you flex foward in the boot you should feel your toes back off from the end of the boot.
b. Width. Generally you want it to fit snug all over. Pressure points are bad.
c. Support. You want to make sure that your ankle is properly support. You want minimal to zero heel lift as your flexing the boot. Keep in mind, your binding is another source for ankle support.
d. Break In. Keep in mind that you're buying your boots for the fit you're going to get AFTER the boot has broken in completely. If your boots fit like you're throwing a hot dog down a hallway, you're going to have problems down the line. Make sure they're snug now because they only get looser... like your first girlfriend.
Heat Molding
Set it and forget it
a. Like warm apple pie. It'll feel great granted your boots are heat moldable in the first place. Make sure your liners are heatable before you do it.
b. It works on my hair, will it work on my boots? If you heat too low, it won't do anything. If you heat too high, the foam will harden. Use the machine that was intended to heat mold your boots and not the sh** you find in your sister's bedroom. Certain liners require specific temperatures in order to mold.
c. Caps. If it's still tight in the toe box, use toecaps when you're getting your boots heated. Put them on your bare feet then put your sock over it. This will take up extra volume around your toes and as the boot cools, you'll have that much extra space in the toe box.
d. Ding Fries are Done! Once it's done, you're not out of the woods yet. Your boot will still break in a little bit more. Heating your boots definitely helps give you more of a custom fit. It will also help alleviate pressure points, if any.
Footbeds
Cradle your feet, not your balls
a. 10 out of 10 pros should agree! They're worth it. Ask anybody. Period. Less fatigue, less cramping, more support. What's not to like?
b. Pronation... is that the position I put my girl in last night? It's when you put pressure on your foot and your ankle rolls inward causing your forefoot to spread. Supporting your heel with a better footbed will help alleviate this. Supporting your foot more will usually help lessen pressure on your larger toes and sixth toe area (side of pinky toe).
c. Sizing? Stand on them and match the arch of your foot to the arch of the footbed. If the footbed is larger than the stock, trim it to fit.
d. Work the system. Getting an orthotic made by a podiatrist is definitely the best thing you can get. If you're lucky, you can get your insurance to pay for it. Otherwise, check out your local shred shop or ski shop. You'll usually be able to find them there for a little over a hundred. If you're going to a place that specializes in boot fitting (surefoot, etc.) they'll charge you a couple hundred. If you just spent all your cash buying your new shred setup, even a cheaper $30+ footbed will be better than a stock insole.
The 2007/2008 Edition. Now you guys don't have to link an outdated topic. Enjoy!
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