I'm not sure I understand right. The "retracting you legs" thing, does this look like "cross-under"? If you can give me some video example, it will be very helpful!
Originally Posted by Snowolf
Couple of things....
Pick better terrain to begin to learn true carving. That run is really too narrow for carving at this level. It forces you to not close your turns and therefore you skid a lot through the bottoms of the turns.
Try to pick a run with a similar pitch but a lot wider so that you can initiate your carved turns slower and make longer radius turns and complete them so that you can switch edges when your board is completely across the fall line. Completing your turns will allow you control speed through turn shape and it also sets you up much earlier at the top of the turn. This gets the edge set good so that when you get to the bottom of the turn, where there is a lot more force, it stays locked into the snow without skidding.
Only other thing (besides keeping the upper body open as Officer Shred pointed out) that I see is you are doing an up unweight to switch edges. This is a hard habit to break once it gets started. The reason this can get you into trouble is this technique pops you and the board up off the snow which in a turn can start the skid. A much better technique is a down unweight to initiate the edge change and turn. By basically retracting you legs to allow your upper body to drop, you perform the exact same unweighting movement to help with the edge change, but, you lower your center of gravity and also keep the snowboard in contact with the snow at edge change.
Another positive of doing the down unweight is that is allows you to extend throughout the bottom of the turn. This extension in effect provides additional weight to the edge because you are pushing up against your board. This technique allow better edge hold in hard conditions....