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Burton Custom X Riding Issues

22K views 20 replies 14 participants last post by  Luffe 
#1 ·
I own 3 boards from burton (I know...that is my first mistake, but I like them). 09' Twin (Camber), 11' Sherlock (Flying V), and 12' Custom X (Camber). I can ride my twin in all conditions at moderate speeds 35-40 mph. I purchased my sherlock at the end of last season and felt it was very unstable. I would often wash out on heel edge. So, this year I purchased a custom x. The reviews say this board is very stable at high speeds. I just left Winter Park and fell on my heel edge similar to the Sherlock. I fell more today than I fell in the past two season combined on the twin.

The only thing I can think of is my set as a possible cause. I have been setting the directional boards as twins. I like to ride switch. Could that be the reason?

Dose anyone have any similar situation or advice. Cause my damn body hurts. HELP!!!!!
 
#2 ·
Most probably not the boards but your riding. Setting up centered shouldn't be a problem at all.

Post up a video of you riding and people on here will be able to tell you whats going wrong.

May have to put your ego to one side though. Worth it to improve your riding IMO.

good luck.
 
#3 ·
When you fall are your catching your edge... or does it feel like the edge imply slides out from under you at a certain point... it could be boot/heelcup overhang (although it is rare). How much can you board tilt up on it's heeledge before the heelcup (or strapped in boot) touches the floor?
 
#4 ·
So last night I went to sleep but all I could think about is how many times I washed out. This morning I began comparing my twin (cartel binding non-channel system) and custom x (cartel with channel system). I use the cartel binding with channel system on both the custom x and sherlock. On this binding, it overhangs my board on heel edge about 1/8 inch. On the twin binding, it is about 1/4 inch away from the edge of the board. Could this cause my issue?

Dreampow- I will try to get a vid today of my riding. Be honest, if I completely suck, let me know. I am not soft nor do I have an ego. I just want to be the best I can be.

Lonerider- I am not catching an edge. While on my heel edge, I would hit a patch of ice and instantly fall. At times it felt like I was on a box/rail. It also seem like I have plenty of lean before the boot touches the floor.

Snowolf- The conditions were not the best. 8-15 degrees and mountain full of skiers (mougals everywhere, BOOOOOO). I did notice a lot of skiers/boarders also washing out. But I assumed this was because they were the holiday types, and only go for holiday season. I figured, I should be better. Also, I went with a friend who was on his normal board and not washing out like me.
 
#5 ·
So last night I went to sleep but all I could think about is how many times I washed out. This morning I began comparing my twin (cartel binding non-channel system) and custom x (cartel with channel system). I use the cartel binding with channel system on both the custom x and sherlock. On this binding, it overhangs my board on heel edge about 1/8 inch. On the twin binding, it is about 1/4 inch away from the edge of the board. Could this cause my issue?
I have pretty much the same set-up. In the interest of eliminating any potential set-up issue you may have with your bindings, here are a few pics from my board (2010 164W CX and L Cartels). I wear size 12 Vans Cirro boots, so the Gas Pedals are fully extended. Bindings are mounted reference width, regular stance, +20º and -12º, mounted 1 increment (1st black stripe back from the centered red stripe) to the heel-side in order for my boots to be centered across the board with equal overhang. I find it has equivalent edge-to-edge response in both directions:



Left (front) binding:


Right (rear) binding:


I also dial in a little forward lean into the highbacks... I find this assists with ensuring I have enough edge angle on my heel side, which keeps me from washing out due to too low of angle on hard heelside maneuvers.

Is there a significant highback angle difference between your two boards? If you used the same riding style on both but had less forward lean in the EST bindings, it may be causing you to have a flatter board during heelside turns, making it easier to wash out...
 
#6 ·
How does the edge of the 09 Twin compare to the edges of the other boards? It may be that the 09 edges better than the other two. Whether it's compensating for a problem with your riding or whether you've gotten used to riding more aggressively because of it, dunno.

Couple of years back, I had two boards and my heel turns would wash out more with one board than the other -- the board would 'skip' a few times then I'd be on my butt. As SW mentioned, there was a problem with my turns. For whatever reason, one board would handle my turns better than the other -- and it was the cheaper one! Eventually I figured out what I was doing wrong and corrected it.
 
#7 ·
Donutz,

That's funny - I was just about to edit my post to add something along those lines.

To the OP, no idea what the factory edge is like on your CX. Maybe one edge is sharper than the other? I tune mine to 1º/1º side/base bevel and keep it really sharp... which is needed in NE hardpack/ice. I use the file as needed when the edge gets dinged up and diamond hone every few waxes.
 
#9 ·
Went out today. I did not see everyone post before I left. So, I moved my bindings all the way in and set up binding for a more directional feel. The temp was 31 degrees. I did not fall at all today (back to normal) but the board only rode ok. It felt a little sloppy but I am getting adjusted to that feel now.

qwezcx12, Thank you so much for the pics. You are awesome. I recently changed my foward lean in the binding because I couldn't ollie off boxes. When I changed this to no lean, I was able to jump without starting a heel edge (I don't know if I made sense there). I will check that out next time. I see a slight difference in high back angle (see pic). Older Cartels on more of a lean when set to zero. I think you may be on to something.

As far as edges go, I am completely lost. I did look at both edges, but I just see edges... lol. I do tune my own board but I just run the shapener along the side (I hope that's not a dumb comment). I did just pick up a diamond file from sheels. Do you think that makes a huge difference? Do you use is only on the bottom of the board or both bottom and sides?

Lonerider- I was thinking the same thing about my heel cup touching the snow. I wear a size 11.5 boot. The guy who sold me the board said I did not need a wide. So my Twin is a wide and the custom x is not. cx12 is riding a wide custom x. Do you think I made a mistake here? If so, what can I do to minimize this mistake? It's ok...I can take it... I think. It just 600 dollars down the drain:eek:
 

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#10 · (Edited)
Usually a wide board is recommended for size 11 boot and up (unless you get one of those minus-one boots). You are at the borderline of what I consider to be too much overhang (0.5 - 1 inch), so it is a possibility (but I'm not 100% sure)... especially on a steep slope where you are more likely to angle the board a lot on a heeledge.
 
#12 ·
My Ride Highlife is a 252 waist and a directional twin (I ride the 158).
I use a reduced footprint size 11 so its actually the size of a 10. Even so I need to get the boots/bindings properly centered to avoid toe/heel drag. This is crucial.

I will Ride centered if I can because I like to ride switch a lot, but I often ride with 1 setback (pow) which is how its designed to be ridden. It is better for freeride with the setback as its how its been designed to flex.

It can still be very twinish and 1 setback is not a big deal.

Give it a try.
 
#13 · (Edited)
I have a CX wide 164 and usually wear a 11-12 boot. I think the problem may be a little bit board and a little bit rider. The Cx has a very unique turn initiation which I haven't encountered with any of my other boards (in 20+ seasons). When I first got the board I was over applying the edges like crazy. I think the lightning bolts and torsional stiffness make it easy to over pressure and wash out. I've found it best to finesse my way into a turn. At a certain point I can lock in and power out a carve but like I said, it requires more of a special touch.

With a standard width board and your foot size you may have compounded the problem with additional leverage. Also, going from a wide to a regular width will cause you to instinctively over apply. I notice this when I go from my wider freeride boards to the CX.

I'd ride just the CX for a couple of days and maybe see if you can find a wide version to try at some point. I wouldn't give up on it yet because I really belive it's one of the best all mtn. boards out there. It does however require a unique balance between finesse and aggressiveness.
 
#14 ·
I think the problem may be a little bit board and a little bit rider. The Cx has a very unique turn initiation which I haven't encountered with any of my other boards (in 20+ seasons).

I'd ride just the CX for a couple of days and maybe see if you can find a wide version to try at some point. I wouldn't give up on it yet because I really belive it's one of the best all mtn. boards out there. It does however require a unique balance between finesse and aggressiveness.
This. It's a very unique board and a monster when you dial it in, but until then, don't be upset that things aren't working out. The OP needs more time on it and a real understanding of every fundamental in turn initiation and fluid dynamic motion.

I'd also like to say that you can't get away with anything sloppy or lazy on the deck. It's very unforgiving but very fun when you get after it.

Perhaps the OP is not really pushing it at the right part of the turn in order to lock in the edge...It transitions very quick and requires very good core / lower body strength to properly work it.

+1 on the mix of finesse/ aggressiveness. It will make the OP a better rider if he sticks with it, no doubt.
 
#16 ·
Im having exactly the same problem with my custom X, I have a 2010/11 162 wide, I'm 6'1", size 12 boots and weigh 215.I have been riding for 15 years + and consider myself an advanced intermediate. I like to carve hard, fast and aggressively.I also have a neversummer raptor that I have never had any issues with at all. I spent 10 days over xmas at Jay(VT) on the CX, I gave this board everything I had and some, but no matter what if I really got on it it would comepletely lose traction heelside more than fifty % of the time. I gave up and went back to the raptor after xmas until last week when I took the CX back out on a perfect groomer day.......exactly the same result.....WTF ...this board is really starting to make me doubt my abilities.I only bought it because every review I read considers it the ultimate carving machine. Help me out here, I actually think I'm developing a hate for this thing!
 
#17 ·
You are not going to be able to do high speed, short radius carved turns on solid ice, just not gonna happen.
That hasn't stopped some of us from trying. :D Heard that these latest storms have turned all of WA state into a huge snowdrift!
 
#18 ·
my advice on the custom X is that the ref point isnt centered if you want to center it take a ruler and do from the end of the tip to the center of binding and do for both sides, you will see how much different it is then the ref points.

personally i have a 151 twin(mission/synchro) and a 164w custom X (cartels) the twin i fucking love the X i really dislike, i liked at first cause i was coming from a fat bob that i never waxed and sharpened which now its tuned i love more then the X too.

basically how ever i first set it up with no knowledge was really prefect but then i changed it and now the thing always feels wonky i cant go top speed riding the board switch or i will always catch an edge which blows, riding normal i never have an problem

now the twin i used to catch when riding switch but one day when i got to the bottom of the slope i put the board on the ground and it made a diving board sound and was broken in and now rides prefect at the highest speeds i can physically make my self go with no chatter riding either side of the board. i also have missions. personally i have soft burton ozone boots+ semi soft missions this makes a huge impact on my riding. personally i doubt you ever need a wide board if you ride 15 degree 15 degree. personally i dont any more all future boards i get are going to be 153/154 and normal width which is fucking sweet.

so yeah try measuring and re adjusting the width
 
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