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Any experience with the new Burton File Guide?

11K views 18 replies 5 participants last post by  TLN 
#1 · (Edited)
Burton File Guide, any experience?

Hello guys. I have been looking at filing my board edges lately. I would like to get my edges done before the next season (round December) hence I think I have ample time to consider which to buy at this stage.

I am aware there are a number of brands out there. Somehow I am interested in knowing more about the newer Burton File Guide.

As I have read from some of the reviews of the old Burton file guide (the rectangular one), it only files the SIDE edge but not the BASE edge. Despite the limitations, the reviews I have come across are generally favorable, saying it's accurate and solidly built ......

The newer Burton File Guide (the pear-shaped one) is supposed to file both the SIDE and BASE edges. Seriously it's not really new as it's been around for some 2 years.

It looks like a decent instrument. Somehow I have not been able to find any reviews on this file guide. Does anyone here have any experience on this newer Burton File Guide?

Thank you very much.
 

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#3 ·
How come my 2 picture attachments could not appear as they, but could only be viewed after clicking their respective links?
I don't know but here is what I do with pictures.

1. Get a photobucket account (it's free and minimal hassle signing up)
2. Upload your pics there
3. scroll your cursor over the pic and this thing will come up that has "IMG code" and then some text after it.
4. Copy that text and paste it straight into your post.
5. Poutanen show'd me how to do that so blame him if it fucks up.
 
#5 ·
This post is posting pictures from photobucket. I think it's easier to understand if both both pictures are displayed at the same time.

Hello guys. I have been looking at filing my board edges lately. I would like to get my edges done before the next season (round December) hence I think I have ample time to consider which to buy at this stage.

I am aware there are a number of brands out there. Somehow I am interested in knowing more about the newer Burton File Guide.

As I have read from some of the reviews of the old Burton file guide (the rectangular one), it only files the SIDE edge but not the BASE edge. Despite the limitations, the reviews I have come across are generally favorable, saying it's accurate and solidly built ......



The newer Burton File Guide (the pear-shaped one) is supposed to file both the SIDE and BASE edges. Seriously it's not really new as it's been around for some 2 years.

It looks like a decent instrument. Somehow I have not been able to find any reviews on this file guide. Does anyone here have any experience on this newer Burton File Guide?



Thank you very much.
 
#8 · (Edited)
Yes the new one could do both the side and base. But there don't seem to be any reviews or testimonials out there for the new one. I suppose you are pretty satisfied with your (older version) of Burton file guide. Cheers SimonB.

Originally posted by Kapn.K

No experience with the Burton but I bought this kit during the spring. Love it, would buy again, and definitely recommend.
Thanks Kapn.K. Your file guide is more expensive but it also comes with 5 diamond stones. It looks great. Do you get to use all 5 of those diamond stones? Thanks Kapn.k for kindly posting the link as well.

It looks like various sellers are doing various packages. The link you provided is doing a file guide plus 5 diamond stones, selling at $80. Whereas Amazon is selling the file guide at $44 with just one file included. You have the option of buying an extra 3 diamond stones at $18.

Amazon.com: Base-Side Bevel File Guide SKS Multi Tool (includes file): Sports & Outdoors

The following pictures are from the above site. If posting these pictures violate forum rules, would the mods please kindly delete the pictures.



Cheers Kapn.K.

Now SimonB and Kapn.K, since I have never owned a file guide myself, but I do have some expectations from these gadgets, does tuning/ filing the side and base edges make a very notable difference to edge hold and riding in general?
 
#9 ·
5 diamonds and a file. 6 total. The file eats steel! It was my first attempt. Bought it on a recommendation along with some Hertel Wax and everything came out great. Very easy to figure out.
 
#13 ·
Well, now i have only dakine simple shaprener, and i'd probably get some like sks for me that year.

I'm not a specialist, but i believe that's true. you shave off lots of metal with bigger file, and fine-tune with smaller one. I think this will make your edges last longer. (keep in mind that you can shave off all you edge and then your board is junk).
Personally - i'd get a pricey one, because of an extra files - to keep my edges sharp all the time.

Also, cheaper one will not allow to change the angle - this can be a deal breaker.
You may be want to shave 0.5 or 1 degree from a base.

ps. once we're start talking about sharpeners, waxes and blah blah blah i consider your ideas is somethink close to carving. And you own some top-of-the-line boards. There's no need to get complicated sharpener to ride in the park, i believe.
 
#15 ·
Hello TLN. Yes I get your idea and thanks for your explanation. Like you suggested I think am more inclined onto getting some better file guides out there, rather than regretting after getting a not-so sophisticated one.

Yes I love carving and I am looking at learning some flatland simple tricks, but definitely not parks, at least for the time being. Cheers TLN.
 
#14 ·
The file is for shaping. Getting your base and side bevel, quickly. Then coarse to fine with the diamonds(just like sanding and finish sanding). You can use the diamonds for rust removal, sharpening, whatever. I'm not sure what a shop charges for bevels but I did two boards already. You'll definitely notice in icy conditions! Keep them sharp. Beveling the base keeps you from catching when sideways on rails, boxes. You can bevel the side after you do the base to get it back to a 90. Or you could do 88, or whatever. I just started doing my own waxing this past season. A LOT better than the shop jobs I've been getting. Probably due to the wax I used. I live in the land of no snow and didn't think I wanted to pack the extra tools to do it. Now I know and they will always be with me.
 
#16 ·
Thanks for your further explanation Kapn.K. Like you I have 2 boards at home. One is my SO's. Hence owning a file guide begins to make more sense now. And for the time being I think I will be riding in Korea at least so for the coming season. And Korea is well known for its icy condition and lack of pow. I think I can benefit from a file guide. Oh I think I will just start with 1 degree/ 1 degree to begin with rather than tuning 2 degrees for the sides.

Your mentioning that you doing your waxes also makes me want to do the same myself. I cannot be bothered bringing it to the shops. If you are into the hobby you want to master all the maintenance work too, right?

But what's interesting is that in another forum I asked what my snowboard edges's factory angles would likely to be, and I was told that it's 1 degree/ 1 degree. I always suspected it was 0 degree/ 0 degree. From reading, I think 1 degree/ 1 degree will be great for general purpose and all mountain rides. But since if it's already 1/ 1, there really isn't much room for me to further tune it haha. BTW my board is Burton Hero 152.

Cheers Kapn.K.
 
#17 ·
Flatland with agled tuned for carving can be quite painful =))

having files at home will:
-keep your board sharp anytime. No need to go to shop to sharpen your edges.
-edges last longer. In shops they shave quite a lot of a metal.

and having waxes at home will keep your boards faster because:
-usually shops use cheapest wax, may be base only waxing.
-you can use wax needed for exact temterature. They faster they universal ones.
-fluorinated (or hydrocarbon, black blocks) protects your board from small rocks.
 
#18 ·
Thank you TLN again for your reply.

TLN and Kapn.k, since you gents have file guides, I really appreciate your further input into another issue. This problem seems seldom discussed.

In many diagrams available on the internet which try to explain what base bevel angle and side bevel angle is, for simplicity they often depict the metal edge abutting out from the (narrow) side wall, rather than being flush with the side wall. From what I am aware of, I believe the majority of, if not all, the metal edge is flush with the side wall. This has serious consequences when you tune your SIDE edges. Either you could not properly tune your SIDE edges, or you also file into the substance of the side wall.

The base edge is fortunate that it does not suffer from the problem.

Now do you guys shave your boards' side wall before you tune your SIDE edges? Come to think of it, it's actually a must ...... unless your metal edge abuts from the side wall out-of-the-box, but I doubt it.

Now out there, there are actually instruments that do the job. Two of them is Toko's Sidewall Planer Pro and Sidecut's sidewall cutter.

Sidewall Planer Pro (Alpine/Snowboard) - YouTube

Ski and Snowboard Tuning - Side Wall Cutters - YouTube

These instruments are not cheap but it looks like one has to acquire them as well in order to tune your own boards. I wonder why side wall shaving is not mentioned much. Cheers TLN and Kapn.K.
 
#19 ·
Well, at first my english aint that good, but i suppose i got yout question right.

I don't use anything for sidewall, and i won't buy stuff for sidewall in close future.
Usually i take a board to service before the season, and couple of times later. I use pocket sharpener as i decide that my edges ain't sharp enough.

I've checked my boards for sidewalls.
-Neversummer's sidewalls looks to be cut. And the cut is about 1mm. So it goes from the bottom: 1mm edge, 9 mm is the sidewall and the top 8mm is untouched. NS used for 4 seasons.
-Prior 4WD, my carving board. It's about 12-13mm thin, and sidewall is totally untouched. I definately got it shaprened, once i bought it used, and i took to the service two (i believe) times. But i cannot comment if the edge was "out-of-the-box" on a new board. May be. I used prior for 1 year, dunno how long it was used. I believe it is 06 season, and wasn't used much.
-Donek board. I'm getting new board this season, but it's still in US, and i cannot say anything about, yet.

Usually sidewall goes like that /===board===\ and you don't touch the sidewall when sharpening, unless your board is quite old(and you shaves 50%+ of your edges) or you're sharpening for extreme angles (86-85, but you must be a racer then).

I'm going to get all the tuning stuff for this season, and i want to use own better waxes for bigger speed and maintain edges by myself that will make 'em last longer.
My opinion is that i can spend all the extra money laterm, i'd like to save it for now.

There's nice board out there: bomberonline.com. The're carvers and some older snowboarders. you can really get a proper advice there.
 
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