EDIT: TITLE SAYS 11, BUT IT'S ACTUALLY 10.5. I'M FROM EUROPE SO I MADE A CONVERSION MISTAKE.
i didn't think about this but i bought skate banana 156w, even though i have a size 10.5 boot, with shrinkage tech (burton moto). did i make a mistake?
and i prefer an honest answer over one that'll make me feel better
I know i read some place that a reg skatebanana is a mid wide and can be used with 11 boots. 156 and up once u go to a 152 the waist width starts to get little more narrow
edit: i've researched a bit, and from what i gathered a size 10.5 + needs a 26cm waist-width, and my 156w is at 26.5 cm. so with my shrinkage tech boot i think a normal width would have been just on the line. i guess if my board feels too sluggish i'll just need to get a 10.5 without shrinkage tech, and i think i'll be okay.
I could be wrong i never owned a banana but i been doing reading because i been thinking bout getting one to.i boight a gnu carbon credit last year and i to bought a wide cause i wear 11 boots and the cc is same way as banana on waist widths i think.
i read that a 26 cm waist-width is recommended for a size 10.5+. a normal width banana is at 25,5, so wouldn't have been enough, according to what i read. i'd rather have too wide than too slim
Very generally speaking, 26cm waist width is too wide for size 10.5 feet. Bigger boots will not make much (if any) difference at all - you effectively pressure/flex the board with your feet, not the boots.
It is a common misperception that too little overhang is preferable to too much. The opposite is the case for for pretty much everybody but the most hardcore Eurocarver.
Actual foot size is what's really important. Additionally boards are wider then the waist measurement at the insert packs. Wiredsport has a good post/tutorial about it somewhere on the forum, it may have been stickied.
Example: T.Rice is considered a midwide and is 25.8 at 157.
You're bindings don't look like they're adjusted right. Your boot look like it is sitting forward of the heel cup. A pic of the base with the boots in the bindings will give a better idea of correct placement on the board. From your pics you might be to far toe side with your bindings.
they're not adjusted right because one is cap strapped , the other one is strapped over the top. but the boots are as far in as they can be, i pushed'em in as far as i could (without putting'em on)
also, i didnt "tie" the boots, so that's why the straps look so lose, and are showing too much teeth. i'm obviously gonna fix the cap strap problem before i use it this season.
i'll tie the boots and strap everything properly tomorrow and take new pics
Your bindings are not setup correctly. The heel of your boot should be visible below the heel loop. Your heel isn't where it's supposed to be because your bindings are not correctly adjusted and why your 10.5 boots don't fit on your board.
Hey Kung. The board width looks okay to me. From the pics and video, it seems like you have more toe overhang then heel. May need to adjust your bindings so your boots are more centered on the board's width. I have a Burton boot size US 10 with shrinkage. Another boot model US 11. I ride mid-wides and prefer them actually, so no problem. It's all riding style and preference. Go have fun, don't overthink it.
Well, I'm just trying to figure out why the heel isn't sticking out under the heelcup unless i press it down. maybe it's normal?
anyway, a guy told me to push the binding back about a centimeter or half a centimeter backwards, so that there's slightly more heel drag. do you agree?
1. Try adjusting your bindings back a bit. As the others said, your toe overhang is bigger than the heel side. That's not dramatic but it's better if you have them equal.
2. The pushing up problem with the boot might be because the boots are very wide for the bindings. I've seen that same thing with a pair of Burton boots and Ride Capo bindings. That is not a big problem though as you will push your boot down with your body weight when strapped in anyway. All that could happen is that you have a bit more wear. So don't worry about that too much.
it is sitting down though. if you check the video you'll se me angle the camera behind the heelcup. it's sticking out there, it can't stick out any more than that.
there is no forward lean, it's on standard settings without any lean. it is a bit bent, and my burton boots are quite straight, which may be what's pushing it up. but they heels are sticking out under the heelcup so it looks fine.
You're new placement looks much better. The key is to try and get the balls and heels of your actual feet as centered as possible between the edges for optimal turning.. If you want to see the ammount of heel and toe drag tip your board on edge with your boots strapped in. You'll be suprised how high your angle will need to be to get drag.
here are some pics bseracka, showing heel an toe drag.
for some reason the left side has more of both heel and toe. might have made small error, i'll fix it some other time. i'm exhausted now ;p
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