Yeah I read that thread but it was more about the OP taking a tighter line and over turning forcing a slider turn (I think)... I'm trying to do equal radius turns on equal surfaces and while my toe side bites the heel side chatters. It is an odd surface of 2" snow over hardpack, which normally I chatter on both edges over. This board is the first time I've been able to really bite hard on the toe side, and I'm trying to do that on the heel side too!
Originally Posted by Slush Puppie
I've noticed (and been told) that your toe side naturally has much more 'suspension' due to the extra flex available through your toes/feet/ankles on that side. Whereas your heels only have a straight line to transmit forces up through your legs. So the answer is to keep your knees slightly looser heel-side to actively soak up the extra forces and allow to edge to run true.
That might just be it... On my toe side I concentrate on driving my knees towards the snow to get the edge angled, on my heel side maybe I've got to concentrate on getting my butt towards the snow and keeping the knees more heavily bent (I already ride in a fairly crouched position when I'm cooking)...
I should note that it was only one part of the hill this was really pronounced. For most of the runs I was fine on both edges, but there's one section where the hardpack is really hard and I'm not sure what surprised me more, the heelside edge chatter or the fact that my toeside was able to bite into it!
I may make some binding adjustments next time I notice it and report back here...
edit: Just read a thread on bomberonline (hardboot forum) about heelside chatter and there were various responses about body positioning, cant angle, etc. etc. but it seemed the general consensus was more weight on the front foot. I did try weighting the front yesterday but I may go back to the drawing board and try to heavily weight the front at turn in. What bugs me is that the toe side carve is so easy and natural, I just fall over and the thing hooks, seems like I have to work at the heel side.
BTW I'm trying to do something similar to euro carving, with a BX style board here. Short sharp carves I'm fine, long fast carves I'm fine, it's that deep euro S carve at a moderate pace that is causing the chatter.