Originally Posted by MikeCL
Hmm those T-bolts came right out, I had to tap mine out with a oversized screw and hammer, inserting them back in was less of a pain. Also interesting he says rotating them is not really needed because of the zytel material they used in the highback. I'm not too sure how it would affect me as a beginner.
ok, then don't worry about highback rotation, especially if you're a beginner (no offense!)
The whole point of rotating highbacks was
to allow to boot to be able to flex more in one direction than the other, because older highbacks were stiff as my.. er...stapler...when my mistresses... you get the idea!
*Joke used to show a point- I'm not really a pimp or anything!
Anyway, because modern highbacks are a lot more flexible, they don't need to be rotated to compensate for boot flex, as the Union guy points out in the helpful video.
If you were to rotate the highback, the T-bolt holes on one side would stick out on the inside of the binding, which might make it more difficult to get your boot in. I rotated mine when I first got the bindings just because I felt like checking out the adjustment, and it was harder to get my wider boot in.
Example: If you rotate it to the left (from behind), you move down a hole on the left side and up a hole on the right side. This would make the hole section stick out into the binding on the left side, and the right side if rotated the other way.
With the highback centered, both T-bolts are in the middle holes and no side sticks out more than the other. This would make it easy to get your boot in.
Like said, the highbacks are flexible so you don't need to rotate them to match up the the side of the board.