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Wax?

5K views 26 replies 4 participants last post by  Slaughterhouse 
#1 · (Edited)
Ok so I got a board and I am going to do my own wax. My problem? There are an endless supply of different kinds and brands of wax. Where do I even start. I figure I need an all temperature wax (I live in Minnesota the temperature changes in the blink of an eye)but what on earth do I get? Is there a certain brand that is superior to others or should I just go find a cheap wax and use it. Am I going to notice a huge difference between a different waxes.

How many waxes am I going to get off of (lets say) a 5 oz block.

Thanks.
 
#2 ·
steelglass said:
Ok so I got a board and I am going to do my own wax. My problem? There are an endless supply of different kinds and brands of wax. Where do I even start. I figure I need an all temperature wax (I live in Minnesota the temperature changes in the blink of an eye)but what on earth do I get? Is there a certain brand that is superior to others or should I just go find a cheap wax and use it. Am I going to notice a huge difference between a different waxes.

How many waxes am I going to get off of (lets say) a 5 oz block.

Thanks.
Yes, for now start off with an all-temperature wax. Seeing as you live in the US look for Bluebird wax (I imported some from the US and was quite impressed with it). You should be able to find it in a skateboard/snowboard shop, possibly even at a big box sporting goods store, and most certainly online. If you go to their website I think they even have a "dealer locater" available. Mileage of your wax depends on how you apply it. Rubbing it on your base like a big crayon before ironing it in will last the bar for quite a few wax jobs but not as much wax is absorbed into the base, so you have to do it more often and it can become a pain in the ass. The preferred method is to melt the bar on an iron base and drizzle it on your board. You get more wax absorption but obviously the trade-off is more wax is used.
 
G
#3 ·
little question im a bit curious



When u scrape the wax off, cant u collect the excess and after a couple times melt it back into 1 piece of wax to re-use. Sounds stupid, but if its possible, why not. Only place i can get wax from is online. Nearest snowboard shop is 3 hours ride away
 
#6 ·
Kieran said:
little question im a bit curious



When u scrape the wax off, cant u collect the excess and after a couple times melt it back into 1 piece of wax to re-use. Sounds stupid, but if its possible, why not. Only place i can get wax from is online. Nearest snowboard shop is 3 hours ride away
Muahahaha!!!! I've ATTEMPTED this when I first started waxing my own boards, and it was a very shortlived idea. Too much garbage gets into your wax shavings and it becomes one hell of a mess. Never again. Instead I bought around 30 bars of Kuu Banff Ice off ebay for around $20 (saving around $280). :rolleyes:
 
#9 ·
For wax, I honestly say, go into any generic sports shop and buy all temp wax, cold temp wax, and warm wax, and mix as needed. Unless you're a racer of some sort, then the brand of wax really doesn't matter. Though if you are going to be environmentally friendly, look at companies like Blue Bird that makes soy wax.
 
#10 ·
steelglass said:
Any other recomendations on some good wax that isn't to expensive?

Edit: Is ski and board wax pretty much interchangeable or is there a difference? Can I use ski wax on a snowboard?
If it is wax for alpine skis sure but avoid cross-country ski stuff. Swix and Toko make really good wax so if you have that available then go for it. Please keep in mind that if you buy flourocarbon based waxes to WEAR A RESPIRATOR and don't smoke while your using it (wash your hands after waxing before striking one up or just quit smoking ;) altogether if you do). I know that wax may seem expensive but if you use it sensibly you can get through the year on 3 or 4 bars if you ride alot (over 150 days a year for this rider and I'll go through 7 bars between 3 snowboards although the other two do not put in as much time as I do... which is probably why my relationship is falling apart :dunno: ). Some ski shops sell wax in huge ugly bricks. just ask them for an all temp. I don't know how much you ride but it might last you a stupid length of time!
 
#12 ·
I imported some Bluebird Soy from the States and was quite impressed with it. However you use it a little differently than normal wax. Normal wax is left to cool for about 20 minutes after hotwaxing; Bluebird Soy is scraped off while it is still warm because if you let it sit it becomes rockhard. BUT I found that Bluebird Soy, once applied and polished is EXTREMLY durable particullarly on granular man made snow and therefore you would end up waxing less. I like Kuu but was very impressed with Bluebird. As well, because it is a soy wax and a natural product the fumes should not be toxic (emphisis on should). Flourocarbon waxes may be toxic to apply but my god, does it make your base slick. A must have for racing. A very tiny bar of good flourocarbon wax will cost you around $20 so you likely won't mistake a regular wax for a flouro wax, though double check the package.
 
#17 ·
Ok guys I have a pre-wax question. So my board had a sticker on the base and it left kind of a sticky film on the bottom. What would be an effective way to get this off? Should I invest in some base cleaner or can I use something else (can I use rubbing alcohol or will that damage the base?).
 
#18 ·
steelglass said:
Ok guys I have a pre-wax question. So my board had a sticker on the base and it left kind of a sticky film on the bottom. What would be an effective way to get this off? Should I invest in some base cleaner or can I use something else (can I use rubbing alcohol or will that damage the base?).
Use a citrus based cleaner (serious, it really isn't a hippy thing). You can use a snowboard base cleaner or you can go to your local Safeway and look for something called Orange Goo Gone or T.K.O. orange cleaner in the cleaning supplies isle. While you are there, grab a cheap package of those rectangular flat green scrubbing pads (they are really cheap) for polishing out and texturing your base after waxing. Keep in mind that when you use those orange cleaners it will remove that factory wax job, though you really might like to wax it anyways before actually using it on snow right away.
 
#19 ·
Ok thanks guys.

I do have a non wax question but it does have to do with tuning, or rather detuning. I have been watching some videos on detuning and my question is is it really necessary? I have to say I am a little hesitant to go and file on my brand new board.
 
#20 ·
steelglass said:
Ok thanks guys.

I do have a non wax question but it does have to do with tuning, or rather detuning. I have been watching some videos on detuning and my question is is it really necessary? I have to say I am a little hesitant to go and file on my brand new board.
You can ride with the factory edges. There are different reasons for detuning, the most notable is detuning the outer limits of your effective edge which will prevent any "grabbing" of your edges during a turn. Keep in mind that you are detuning and not "beveling" which you would only do to a park board for doing rails, etc. Detuning really only involves GENTLY running a stone or file over the sharp edge to SLIGHTLY dull it a bit. Don't be grinding it with a file removing large amounts of steel. If your edge is razor sharp then it is easier to slice into ice or crud during your turn transitions, but if you are still trying to dial in your turns then dulling that edge EVER SO SLIGHTLY allows the turn transition to "slip" into the turn. You can even detune by rubbing a spoon handle over the edge, though it will look a little weird. A gummi stone is a bit better for this as it's pretty hard to screw up with one.
 
#22 ·
steelglass said:
Ok one more thing. Is it just fluorocarbon stuff I have to worry about breathing in? There is hydro-carbon stuff, is that fine?
Oh yeah, you should be good. Dominator has an awesome FAQ on waxes and defines the difference between Fluorocarbon wax and Hydrocarbon wax and the dangers. It is a short read so check it out Dominator Wax
 
#23 ·
Sorry for all the questions guys but sadly I still have more. Does anyone have some really good board waxing tutorials/videos/how too's? I have already read a bunch of sites and watched a few videos and I am pretty confident in myself but reading a bit more doesn't hurt anything.
 
#25 ·
steelglass said:
Sorry for all the questions guys but sadly I still have more. Does anyone have some really good board waxing tutorials/videos/how too's? I have already read a bunch of sites and watched a few videos and I am pretty confident in myself but reading a bit more doesn't hurt anything.
Jess is right, when you see how easy it really is you will be shaking your head :) . It's just like as if you would iron a shirt, keep the iron moving and don't let it stand in one spot. Keep moving the iron until all the wax is spread over your entire base. Let the wax cool for about 20 minutes and then scrape it ALL off again. You will feel like you've just waisted a bunch of wax when you scrape but this is normal. Once you cannot get ANYMORE wax off with your scraper (use a plastic scraper not a metal one) then buff your base with a green scrub pad until you have zero friction when sliding the pad across the base. Check out Kuu website as I think they have a tutorial there on waxing. I think I'll eventually get around to posting a How-To on this though I think Snowolf is already on it.
 
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