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#21 (permalink) |
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Veteran Member
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Evergreen, CO
Posts: 4,499
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My fiance is flipping out about me wanting to sell my leather 3rd row buckets out of my Tahoe, but it's like I told her, my old Tahoe didn't even have 3rd row seating and in the six years I had it, I can't think of a single time when I would've used it. The day I bought my new Tahoe, I took them out and they haven't moved from that spot in the garage during the 8 months I've had it. I don't foresee that changing. All I see is some good money that could be put to use elsewhere.
Matter if fact, I regret even mentioning it to her. If I'd just sold the damn things without saying anything, she'd never know they were gone. I'm taking my new to me Arbor Element out this Friday. After that I will decide whether it or my 08/09 NS Heritage is getting sold. I'm pretty sure I'm going to be able to get a Mojo with minimal out of pocket expense, hopefully none. Last edited by linvillegorge; 11-02-2010 at 09:32 PM. |
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#22 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 182
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Why not grab that new Burton split. More tech than you can shake a stick at and for the very affordale (and un-burton-like) price of $600. Their split costs just as much as some their comparable solid boards. But of course then you have to try to find $300 more for some spark or Voile bindings plus $95 for the BD triple flick lock poles. plus $80 for some mohair-nylon skins. and hundreds more if you need avy gear.
Maybe just sell the whole Tahoe. jk |
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#23 (permalink) | |
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Veteran Member
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Evergreen, CO
Posts: 4,499
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Quote:
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#25 (permalink) |
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Veteran Member
![]() Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Front Range
Posts: 9,174
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Unless something has changed the Burton is pre-drilled with inserts and it has tip/tail clips. But that is it. You still have to buy the Voile or Karakorum system, get skins, and maybe bindings depending on you preference. I also don't see it being at all revolutionary. Pretty run of the mill split actually. It'll do the job.
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#26 (permalink) |
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Veteran Member
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Evergreen, CO
Posts: 4,499
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The way I see it, I'm pretty much between the Voile Mojo and NS. I really want the NS, but for $1100 you get the the full setup with skins and bindings with Voile. The NS costs $1300 and I'd still be stuck with my old Rides for another season.
I'd get a 164 Heritage if I went NS. I'd get a 166 Mojo if I went Voile. On a side note, I talked to the NS guys at Loveland today. They were doing a demo day and I took a quick run on a 162 Heritage. Nice board. It was a hard pack day and I just bombed one run on it and that was it, so I can't say much. I'll just say that it was a lot more stable at speed than my Evo (duh), but there's still a time and a place for traditional camber and that time and place is going balls to the wall on hard packed groomers. Anyway, I was asking them about the split sizes and options and what not. They said they'll split anything. Whatever you want. You come into the factory, pick the top sheet you want, pick your base, whatever. You pick it, they'll split it. For $1300, I wouldn't expect any less. Last edited by linvillegorge; 11-07-2010 at 01:20 AM. |
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#27 (permalink) |
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Veteran Member
![]() Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Front Range
Posts: 9,174
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Hey Linville. I know some people have the Voile Light Rail binder and as far as the binding itself goes, I'm sure it performs great. There is a design problem with it that the Spark Models don't have. This is a tab at the bottom of the slider plate on the Voile model that cracks and breaks. That's the tab that stops it from sliding off the pucks. The same one the plates have. I have cracked and broke off several on the plates. I have no reason to believe that the binding won't have that problem too.
For $1300, you get the full kit with the Neversummer, just not the binders. Also with the either boards having rocker on them, you might want to go shorter. 166 is what I ride with regular camber. On the new rocker board I'm getting I'm going around 160-161. You still get a bigger board performance and more nimbleness in the trees. And believe me there are some pretty gnarly tight tree runs around here that we do in mid winter. This ain't Utah, where the snow pack stabilizes a hell of a lot more quickly. We're tree rats in those mid winter months. |
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#28 (permalink) | |
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-LIFETIME MEMBER-
![]() Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Calgary, AB
Posts: 1,423
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Quote:
I went with the 160 Summit (5'10 180 lbs) after talking to Vince about it, he said the 160 would be better, and the Summit will have no issues with float. I liked the default topsheet actually. |
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#29 (permalink) |
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Veteran Member
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Evergreen, CO
Posts: 4,499
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I really want to demo the Heritage on a pow day. I'm skeptical about the amount of additional float the RC provides. My 158 Evo.doesn't float for shit. My old cambered 160 Heritage floats much better. Now, I realize these boards are on the near opposite ends of the spectrum and I'm comparing apples and oranges. I'd still just like to get that new Heritage in some steep and deep before pulling the trigger on a split.
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#30 (permalink) |
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-LIFETIME MEMBER-
![]() Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Calgary, AB
Posts: 1,423
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Surprising, I have an SL-R 158 that I can float in pow pretty easily, I do have to put more weight on the back leg, I think that's going to be the case with any twinnish board. That's why I went with the Summit over the heritage. I don't ride switch or try many spins or tricks when I'm wearing a pack. Plus, pintails are a ton of fun in the trees (I rode a regular cambered mullet for a while on cat trips)
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