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Old 02-07-2013, 09:37 PM   #11 (permalink)
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If you have the tools and know how to use them its pretty easy. Sawing in half is the the hardest part IMO
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Old 02-07-2013, 09:47 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Another good thing about a DIY board is that once you buy the kit you can transfer it to other boards. Once you save up the cash, you can buy a factory split (Never Summer, Venture, Lib Tech, whatever) and use your kit from your DIY on it. Most brands other than Voile come with the board only, so you still need a kit and skins. You'll have that from your DIY if you decide to go that route.
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Old 02-07-2013, 09:51 PM   #13 (permalink)
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maybe the best thing about a DIY board is they're lighter - no inside edge or sidewall

re: sawing it in half is the hardest part - look around locally for a machine shop with a waterjet that will do the cut for you. prices usually range from $20-60 and it should be a perfect cut.
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Old 02-07-2013, 10:05 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Awesome, I think I might be taking this route. My dad is a finish carpenter (among many other things) so we have essentially a full wood shop.

He also has an old Burton powder board that's been collecting dust, which I think has "cut in half" written all over it
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Old 02-07-2013, 10:07 PM   #15 (permalink)
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do it with a board that you know you like riding, and don't go killing the lighter weight factor by using some tank of a board... just sayin.
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Old 02-08-2013, 09:43 AM   #16 (permalink)
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skip the waterjet, not worth the money, if you build guide making a straight clean cut is easy. I've always used a skill saw with nice carbide blade. use a fostner bit instead of a paddle bit for drilling the holes in the base for the tnuts.

make sure the board you pick has a solid wood core. (more common than not)
the first board i split was an high end board from option. They had milled out sections of the core to lighten it between the bindings. the tnuts holding the touring hardware didnt have much wood to bite into and the board ended up cracking in this area after three years of use.
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Old 02-08-2013, 01:03 PM   #17 (permalink)
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I might be speaking out of my ass here as I have only ridden cambered boards but a powder specific board might not be the best choice for your only splitboard. The reason being that you will encounter a whole bunch of different conditions in the BC, often on the same trip and you would want a board that can effectively handle them all. What are your thoughts guys? Id like to know as well since Im looking for a new board to split/buy.
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Old 02-08-2013, 01:11 PM   #18 (permalink)
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mhaas, if you are not riding mostly powder, it had better be svelte corn or I am going to the bar most of the time.

There is the mountaineering aspect. Which when I hear that just means to me that you are going to do crappy riding. So a powder specific shape is appropriate for splitting. On the last 10 splitboard outings I've done I've experienced, powder, powder, and oh yeah powder...
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Old 02-08-2013, 01:16 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by killclimbz View Post
mhaas, if you are not riding mostly powder, it had better be svelte corn or I am going to the bar most of the time.

There is the mountaineering aspect. Which when I hear that just means to me that you are going to do crappy riding. So a powder specific shape is appropriate for splitting. On the last 10 splitboard outings I've done I've experienced, powder, powder, and oh yeah powder...
My thoughts exactly, there's no way I'm skinning up a mountain if I'm not riding powder... and I also live next to legit mountains.

The board I have in mind is actually surprisingly light for being a mack-daddy, it's probably circa 2005 ish so not too old.
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Old 02-08-2013, 01:50 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Keep in mind a powder specific board will work fine on bob sled run type out trails too. The only place I might have reservations is an icy as shit couloir. Which if I was riding at a resort I might be worried about. If I find one in the BC, I am probably not going to do it. Risks are much higher out there.
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