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Old 06-21-2013, 04:54 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default My DIY splitboard project

Well, thanks to killclimbz, I am going to make my first splitboard. I had a few old boards around that I've beat on so I thought I would attempt this project.

Looking at the K2 panoramic splitboard specs, they looked pretty close to my K2 Brigade I had. The profile looked basically the same so this board became the donor. I really liked the way it rode anyway, so it seemed like the best choice. I've ordered the Voile DIY kit, but don't have it yet, so this project will take a few weeks.

Here is the board laid out with the centerline and tape showing where I want the bindings. I taped the topsheet as well to try to prevent any splintering. I doubt it would anyway, but good practice regardless.
IMG_1367.jpg
Here is the base with the centerline.
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Here are the edges getting cut with a metal cutting bandsaw.
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cont.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_1371.jpg (122.9 KB, 28 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_1372.jpg (104.0 KB, 24 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_1373.jpg (90.1 KB, 25 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_1374.jpg (71.6 KB, 25 views)

Last edited by West Baden Iron; 06-21-2013 at 05:04 PM.
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Old 06-21-2013, 05:02 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Here is the setup I used sawing it in half. I do metalworking, so I always have a bunch of steel tubing laying around. I used a piece of flat stock for the nose and tail. Cutting went off without a hitch.
IMG_1371.jpg
IMG_1372.jpg
IMG_1373.jpg
Here are the 2 halves, in dining room touring mode.
IMG_1374.jpg
Here is my end of the work for the day.
IMG_1363.jpg

More work and photos to come in the next week or so. I will file the base edge and round the tips. And wait for my DIY kit to arrive.

Jason
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Old 06-22-2013, 08:06 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Looks good. Keen to see how it works on the slopes. Where you planning to splitboard?
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Old 06-22-2013, 08:14 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Looks awesome. With your metal working skills I am sure you could insert an edge if you wanted. Otherwise, clean up the cut, and start sealing that bitch. I believe most use epoxy and then maybe add a poly urethane at the end. Evidently the edge will soak up a ton of epoxy. I am sure you know this, but just in case. Use a flexible epoxy with as low as a temperature rating as you can find.
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Old 06-22-2013, 08:22 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davidj View Post
Looks good. Keen to see how it works on the slopes. Where you planning to splitboard?
Thanks. I'm building it for when I go to Colorado next spring but I will probably try it out on my home hill here in Indiana. I'm gonna try to ride it down and skin back up the hill for practice before I go out west. Not sure how well it will work, but it should at least get used to how it works before I get to the mountains.

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Old 06-22-2013, 08:28 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by killclimbz View Post
Looks awesome. With your metal working skills I am sure you could insert an edge if you wanted. Otherwise, clean up the cut, and start sealing that bitch. I believe most use epoxy and then maybe add a poly urethane at the end. Evidently the edge will soak up a ton of epoxy. I am sure you know this, but just in case. Use a flexible epoxy with as low as a temperature rating as you can find.
Thanks killclimbz. I was contemplating putting an inside metal edge, but haven't researched it enough yet. I might leave that for a better board that i'll split if this works out good.

I sanded the edges and beveled the base to a 45 degrees. Pictures don't show anything, so I didn't load those. Here are the tips rounded.
IMG_1375.jpg

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Old 06-24-2013, 02:11 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I decided to just go with spar urethane to seal the inside edges. I researched here and splitboard.com until my head hurt. Lots of discussion about epoxy, urethane, metal edges, etc. For my first splitboard, I decided I would go the easier route and see how it holds up. I ok with some maintenance on the edge as I will only use it a few times a year. I put 4 coats on and sanded it smooth with 400 then 600 grit sandpaper.

I'm done with this until Friday when my DIY kit comes in. However, I found printable templates on the voile site. Should I wait for the kit, or will the printed templates be just fine? I set the scale to 100%, but I'm worried it isn't perfect. I probably should wait, not like I'm going split boarding tomorrow.

What would everyone advise about using the universal pucks rather than the DIY pucks? I'm sure adjustability is nice, but I've ridden +15, -15 for quite a while so I don't think that would change for BC. However, I really haven't ridden any BC, so maybe it would be better to have the ability to change stance angles and setback. I realize I'll have to drill quite a few more holes if I go with universal pucks, but I'm ok with that.

Jason

Last edited by West Baden Iron; 06-24-2013 at 02:34 PM.
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Old 06-24-2013, 02:31 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Well, I stopped being a dumbass on the printable templates and just measured them. The pivoting hook holes are exactly 0.75" and the tail clip holes are exactly 1.00". So I believe that they are to the correct scale as I printed the pattern for the holes for using the universal pucks from firstlightsnowboards.com with the measurements on them and they came out correct as well.

One more question, what is the standard dimension for the width between the holes on a standard split board? The patterns I found have 2 options, 3.34" and 3.375". I have researched, but obviously I'm not searching correctly because I cannot find this dimension. I realize the difference is minimal at 0.025", but I want to get it right if I do go this route.

Jason
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Old 06-24-2013, 10:57 PM   #9 (permalink)
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universal pucks for sure. You don't want to be stuck with an uncomfortable stance. and you might eventually buy a factory split and that's 50 bucks less you will have to spend.
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Old 06-25-2013, 06:37 AM   #10 (permalink)
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You stance is fine. That is exactly what I rock. A duck stance lets you squat low to the ground. A handy thing in tight trees.

As far as pucks go. That is up to you. I think with the diy pucks you have more fasten points. If not than it is preference. You will have to re drill regardless of which style you use. There is not much adjustability without moving the pucks.
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