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Do I want toe caps?

3K views 15 replies 9 participants last post by  NZRide 
#1 ·
I have toe straps, and they're mismatched (one broke on the mountain, they gave me a fistful to try). A guy at work said he switched to toe caps and the difference was night and day. I'm not very good at snowboarding, can't seem to get the hang of it, so I'm trying out different stuff to see if I can find the sweet spot. I just moved my bindings back on position to the heel, and moved the toe straps to the front notch, see if that helps. Here's some pictures of my bindings and stuff, maybe you all can help me find toe caps if I need em, thanks.




 
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#3 ·
The bindings are a tiny bit narrow right at the toe, but the boots are very wide at the toe, as I have super wide duck feet, so I just cram em in there. I guess I should explain the problem I'm having with riding, turning specifically. If I'm going down the mountain on my toes and turn onto my heels, no problem. If I try to carve back onto my toes, crash in the snow. I can kick the tail out and kinda rotate to my toes, might take a couple kicks, but it's exhausting and looks retarded.
 
#5 ·
Yeah, I had alot of toe hanging out, my old boots were shorter (and didn't fit) and I never even thought to move the bindings back until I noticed it today when I was riding. I have both bindings set at 15 degrees, my feet stick out like that naturally, so that's what I went with.
 
#8 ·
centering the bindings on the board and having the stance just right helps, but I don't feel switching to toe caps helped my riding much...they give a more snug/connected feeling to the board and will keep the straps from digging painfully into your toes, but that's about it. You'll get better with practice than with upgrading equipment.
 
#10 ·
I get what you're saying, the bindings should be longer to exert pressure closer to the edge so I can lay some power down? Never thought of that, just figured that whoever sold this package to the guy I got it from woulda known. What would be a good (affordable) binding to look into?
 
#11 ·
Yea, exactly. It will also give you an easier time understanding where your toe side edge is. Even tho my toeside carvs are stronger than my heal side it always take me a couple runs a new board to "find" the toe edge. I'm not saying new bindings will make you an expert, but they should help quit a bit.

Also, your board is perfectly fine for learning, but its not gona be lighting quick edge to edge either. Keep it though and learn on it, you'll be a better rider in the long run.

You're a pretty heavy rider so I wouldnt cheap out on bindings. What is your target price? What bindings do you have now?
 
#12 ·
Yeah, that board is supposed to be good all around, and really good for big feet and heavier riders. I did alot of research on it before I bought it, and it seemed to fit the bill. The bindings are Forum Destroyers, and I guess Burton bought them at some point, not sure before or after mine were made, but that funny looking strap is a Burton. As far as price range, I have no clue. I got the board, bindings, boots, bag and a hat for $175. The boots didn't fit, so they're in a closet. The hat didn't fit so I got a new one last week (after riding 5 seasons without one) but I still think 175 for the board, bindings and bag is a smokin deal.
 
#15 · (Edited)
I didn't know what toe ramps were, so I googled em and then went to a board shop today to have a look. My bindings don't have them, and can't, maybe too old. They had short stock on affordable bindings, and want to see my board before they sell me anything. I took some measurements of where my bindings sit on the board. The toe edge is sitting right on the slope that tapers down to the steel edge, and the heel edge is about a quarter inch (1cm) forward. The boot reflects this, with the toe hanging about 1cm further out than the heel when viewed from the bottom.

I moved the binding to the last position on the circle thing and remounted it, now the heel is probably 1/8" closer to it's edge than the toe, so this is as centered as the binding can get on the board, with the boot also being about 1/8" heel proud now. The heel cup adjustments are very course, maybe 1/4 to 3/8 of an inch between holes, so moving it in would put me toe proud again, while moving it out would have me dragging my heel. I think my big issue here is budget bindings that might be 6 or 8 years old. As it sits now, everything is pretty much as centered as it can be. Both bindings are still at a 15 degree angle, but I may play with that too, come in to 10 degree and see if that gives me more control Any thoughts on that? I'm way left foot dominant or whatever you call it, never ride the board goofy unless I'm in the process of turning it back to normal.
 
#16 ·
Check if the heel cup is adjustable to pull back on your bindings (you will need to undo the two screws where the main chassis meets the heel cup and check if you have multiple screw position options, this will pull you foot back in the binding overall, essentially moving your toe strap more over your toe. Note you will need to re-centre the binding on the board, likely use holes in edge to edge orientation rather than tip to tail.

If no adjustment possible (the fact they have no toe ramp makes them look fricken old) I would say flog those old bindings off and get yourself some newbies. Romes (Boss,390,Targa depending on what you like for stiffness/price), most adjustable bindings out there and you will be able to configure them optimally for your boots guaranteed. Your current setup is not optimal or allowing you to configure it optimally so you need to make a change there somewhere or live with the shit basically.
 
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