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post #1 of 4 (permalink) Old 06-07-2010, 09:55 AM Thread Starter
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Little 'project' with cant beds

So I heard a lot about canted footbeds ,how good is for your knees , more natural stance -> more balance , more pop. More and more companies going this way so I decide to make one by my own because I got my Union Forces last season and I wont change them for a while. It wont be so hard to make cant footbeds from Forces ,ill just add a silicone to my footbeds to make 3 or 4 degree cant and buy larger screw to secure it. So my question is...can somebody with canted footbeds measure your footbed? Ill add a picture what I need. Any other suggestion will be nice , for example about what degree i should go or any other kind of help. It wont be hard to make it like it was before , without cant , if something goes wrong so Id like to give it a try
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post #2 of 4 (permalink) Old 06-07-2010, 11:11 AM
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you don't really need measurements.
A1- you can measure you binding for width.
A3- is your choice, thin but thick enough that you silicon has some strength
A2= A3+ A1x(sine of your desired cant angle, 2 to 4 degrees)

I would built all atop the existing binding base cover and use the standard hardware that attaches it all to disk

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post #3 of 4 (permalink) Old 06-07-2010, 02:19 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by walove View Post
you don't really need measurements.
A1- you can measure you binding for width.
Its 12 cm/4.7Inch on the thickest side of footbed
A3- is your choice, thin but thick enough that you silicon has some strength
Id like to add some silicone to the thinnest part of the footbed but also add some more silicone to the outside side of the footbed to make 3-4 degree cant.
A2= A3+ A1x(sine of your desired cant angle, 2 to 4 degrees)
Still I want to know how much is that cant bed thicker on the outside ,than on inside...from that ill calculate how much silicone I need to apply

I would built all atop the existing binding base cover and use the standard hardware that attaches it all to disk
I'd like to use existing hardware but id might be too short for cant beds.
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post #4 of 4 (permalink) Old 06-07-2010, 03:25 PM
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i dont have forces but some of my buddies do. I remember a plastic plate that sits atop the base plate that attaches with one or two screws, and some grooves on the bottom. I would build the cant bed atop this existing plastic plate or a plywood copy and have a whole through the cant bed so the screws sit on the plate. I would use some sort of adhesive to attach the cant bed tp the plate. The problem is there is not much that will stick to silicone. Maybe a heavy duty contact cement that stays somewhat tacky, or a silicone based calk might also work. With out the plate i dont see something made out of silicone to staying put. It is so soft it cant really be attached well by screws. I like the idea but question the use of silicone. Are you going to mold it, or cut it down. The stuff is pretty spendy too. $50 a pound for molding silicone. Most manufactures are using a EVA foam. Its a little stiffer and should shape better, Id imagine its cheaper too.

How are you going to approach the toe ramp area, its separate from the plate if i remember.

Unions already have a lot of flex in the baseplate and then the added movement from the foam on the bottom i wonder what degree of cant is present when you just flex them hard laterally. Thats my biggest gripe with unions is that the baseplate flexes to much. I have found i like stiff baseplates preferably aluminum, with little padding. I don't like any mush between me and the board. As for highbacks i couldn't really give a shit unless the zeroed forward lean position is too far forward, thats annoying as hell.

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