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post #11 of 23 (permalink) Old 08-03-2011, 02:12 PM
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Nivek
Maybe brittle is not the exact word I am looking for. What I meant is "non-flexible" (impliable?). Aluminum does not like to flex and return to it's original shape, compared to say steel. It will flex, but then remain in that position. Of course steel would be far to heavy for this application. I have never snapped or exploded any aluminum bindings, but I've bent every aluminum binding I've ever used (Targa, SPI, Raiden, etc). This probably won't happen unless you are riding pretty hard though. What you mention about Ride's bindings bending... um, isn't that a big problem? I'm sure you've seen lots of broken Polycarb as I have too - because like I said most snowboard gear is crap. So to sum it up, Aluminum won't snap but will often bend / Polycarbs won't bend but might snap.

ukaszeklp Cartels and Malevitas are definitely good bindings. I personally don't like Burton's highback hinge (how it always comes loose) or their ankle straps, but besides that, those are really good bindings. I have seen a handful of Burton's baseplates snap under hard riding, although it has not happened to be before. Luckily that's rare and they have a lifetime warranty.

This year I'm going to give Salomon bindings a go. It's very limited these days when it comes to non-aluminum bindings with good features. (off the top of my head: Salomon, K2, Flux, Burton, ?)
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post #12 of 23 (permalink) Old 08-03-2011, 06:58 PM
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It isn't good if they bend, no. but it will more than likely take more force to bend a good aluminum binding than to break equal quality polycarb bindings.

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post #13 of 23 (permalink) Old 08-05-2011, 12:03 AM
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I'd agree with that more or less. Good discussion!
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post #14 of 23 (permalink) Old 08-05-2011, 12:32 PM
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The onset of plastic deformation occurs at the plastic strength, versus the yield strenth where deflection doesn't result in permanent deformation. This has to do with the imperfections in the grain structure and whether or not they have slipped past each other in order for boundaries to act like microscopic ratchet teeth and maintain the new shape. Steel has a much higher margin between its yield and plastic strengths whereas aluminum has relatively little. Worked aluminum, such as in heel cups, while ductile relative to polymer injected materials, is fairly brittle as aluminum goes leading to a higher ultimate strength (breaking strength) and higher yield strength but reduced margin between the yield and plastic strengths. This is why they are tough to bend but when they bend, they don't go back. There are levels of stress where the bindings would bend back (yield strength but less than plastic strength). It's just a narrow margin.

The Targas are good. I bought 10/11's but since it's almost shopping season for 2012, you should wait and get the 11/12's because they apparently have a lot of little improvements with the toe cap and ratchets/ladders. They aren't super buttery, but I find them good nuff for jibbing and buttering. Of course, they are good for riding all mountain. Take the time to really dial them in to fit your boot. It can make a lot of difference. Do all the adjustments, rotate the highbacks all that jazz because it makes the transfer of forces into the deck much more direct and helps with feedback.
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post #15 of 23 (permalink) Old 08-05-2011, 02:01 PM
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the toe straps on the '12s are sick.


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post #16 of 23 (permalink) Old 08-05-2011, 09:02 PM
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I am pretty set on getting '12 Targas this fall. However, I am in between sizes... I currently use Burton Rulers size 9.5. As the Burtons use shrinkage tech would I be better off getting L/XL to give more length on the straps...or would I be better off with S/M to have less room around the boot?????
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post #17 of 23 (permalink) Old 08-06-2011, 12:19 AM
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Get the S/M binding for your 9.5 Burton boots. I had size 10 Burton Ions last year, with the L/XL Targa binding. I had the straps on the shortest setting possible, and was almost maxing them out when I cranked them down (I should mention I do crank them down pretty hard though). There was also about 1/2" of extra width in the baseplate. You want the S/M. Sounds crazy, but it's right.
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post #18 of 23 (permalink) Old 08-06-2011, 09:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chupacabraman View Post
Get the S/M binding for your 9.5 Burton boots. I had size 10 Burton Ions last year, with the L/XL Targa binding. I had the straps on the shortest setting possible, and was almost maxing them out when I cranked them down (I should mention I do crank them down pretty hard though). There was also about 1/2" of extra width in the baseplate. You want the S/M. Sounds crazy, but it's right.
Thanks.. If I switch to another brand of boot that doesn't have Burtons shrinkage tech would I have to worry about them fitting the S/M?
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post #19 of 23 (permalink) Old 08-10-2011, 04:15 PM
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Dunno about S/M but L/XL fit just fine my 9.5 Vans Aura...and they're definetly not on the shortest setting possible.
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post #20 of 23 (permalink) Old 08-10-2011, 06:31 PM
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Yeah the fit is defnitely going to vary from boot to boot. If you're in that 9-10 range I'd highly recommend checking the fit in person first, before buying online if that's the plan.
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