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Old 03-11-2013, 10:42 PM   #421 (permalink)
jtg
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Quote:
Originally Posted by john doe View Post
I think we have a winner. There absolutely is a heel cup adjustment on the NX2 bindings. There a two holes on the base to mount the highback/heel cup pivot. And they ship in the forward position. It seems you had the right size the first time.

Flow NX2 Series "How To" on Vimeo About 1:07 in it shows the heel cup adjustment.
Damn!

Yeah, I looked exactly like the sad face one at 1:08.

There is no mention of that setting in the manual, and http://www.flow.com/support/binding-set-up just goes to an error page. The only centering option they show in the manual is the base plates.

I'll try and return them again. The sales guy said that a lot of people are having centering problems with them. I had my boots with me, which he test fitted, then agreed that the Medium was definitely not fitting correctly. I guess he was also unaware of that adjustment.

Anyway, thanks for pointing that out I'm a little concerned that it still won't be enough clearance to make up for the overhang but I'll definitely give it a shot.

Last edited by jtg; 03-11-2013 at 10:44 PM.
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Old 03-12-2013, 08:13 AM   #422 (permalink)
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When I got my NX2-SE I was shocked at how shitty the included instructions were. Luckily I'm a gear whore and a geek so I knew basically everything about these bindings before I got them.
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Old 03-12-2013, 08:34 AM   #423 (permalink)
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Yes. If you haven't looked recently, I'd suggest taking a look at how much space that really buys you on the flow plates. It's less than half an inch. After doing this, my toe overhang was about 1.5", and the heel of my boot was still about a quarter inch *inside* the edge of the board. As in, not even overhanging yet.
I see what is happening. You are using the Burton Channel holes which offer almost no movement from edge to edge. Riders with trad 4 hole patterns get over an inch of adjustment on the baseplate which would allow you perfect centerring on the same width deck.
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Old 03-12-2013, 09:14 AM   #424 (permalink)
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Oh, one other thing I noticed. Since you are using a channel board you aren't set in what holes to use. Like you can turn the disk about 45 degrees and use two of the holes for teh 4X4 pattern to bolt down the binding. The degree numbers won't read right but that doesn't matter. Just another way to get more adjustment.

Wiredsports. Having you talked with anyone at Flow about the loose ratchet issue? If so what did they say.
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Old 03-12-2013, 01:22 PM   #425 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Wiredsport View Post
I see what is happening. You are using the Burton Channel holes which offer almost no movement from edge to edge. Riders with trad 4 hole patterns get over an inch of adjustment on the baseplate which would allow you perfect centerring on the same width deck.
Nope, as noted here:

Quote:
Originally Posted by jtg View Post
Yes. If you haven't looked recently, I'd suggest taking a look at how much space that really buys you on the flow plates. It's less than half an inch. After doing this, my toe overhang was about 1.5", and the heel of my boot was still about a quarter inch *inside* the edge of the board. As in, not even overhanging yet.


Pic 2: Binding centering. This pic is using the burton channel holes, and as you can see, there is very little room to center the binding left or right. Less than half an inch. On the Large, it is currently centered pretty well and I have it all the way towards the rear. When I had the Mediums, it was actually mounted on a Lib board with traditional 4x4 mounts. In that case, the base plate is rotated from what you see in this pic, and you can slide it left or right along the 4x4 holes to center. On the medium binding on the lib board, I had it rotated and all the way to the right (rear), which brings it closer to center by about 0.5" or less.
You don't get an inch, you get 0.5 inches in either direction from center. The fact that there is room to move it 0.5 inches Forward from center does not get you any extra room to move it closer to the back. BTW, you can do the same thing on the channel mounts by rotating the plate. Regardless, my usual board is a 4x4 and that is what I was testing the Mediums on when I had them.

So, from what I can tell, my only hope is to exchange for the Mediums again and use that 0.5" that I was already using combined with the heelcup depth adjustment john doe pointed out.

Edit: In fact I just measured, and on the traditional 4x4 holes, it's not even 0.5". From center, you can only move it forward or back slightly less than 3/8 of an inch, as measured from the center of the middle hole to the center of the forward-most (toe-side) hole. Not much room at all.

Last edited by jtg; 03-12-2013 at 01:35 PM.
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Old 03-12-2013, 01:43 PM   #426 (permalink)
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Hi JTG,

If you are referring to using the non-channel holes for mounting on a channel board (there are only two channel holes) you should not.

When you have the Medium bindings back please send an updated photo and we will walk you through the best setup steps. In the meantime, Waht is the width of your board at the inserts where you are currently mounted?
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Old 03-12-2013, 02:26 PM   #427 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Wiredsport View Post
Hi JTG,

If you are referring to using the non-channel holes for mounting on a channel board (there are only two channel holes) you should not.

When you have the Medium bindings back please send an updated photo and we will walk you through the best setup steps. In the meantime, Waht is the width of your board at the inserts where you are currently mounted?
No, sorry...disregard the board you see in the pictures. I have two boards. The pictures depict the Large bindings on a different board, which is centered fine. Those pictures were only for demonstrating boot fit problems on the Large.

When I tried to mount the Mediums, I used the 4x4 holes on a Lib Tech board with the normal 4x4 pattern. The 4x4 pattern on a 4x4 board lets you have some wiggle from from center in either direction, as you know. You can slide it in the mount holes in either direction by 3/8".

After sliding it forward in the 4x4 on the 4x4 as much as possible (so, screws all the way to the end on the toe side), I was 3/8" closer to centering it, but with a boot in, there was still huge overhang on the toe side and the heel was not even overhanging yet.

Pics on the actual board:

Note: I am goofy, toes are on the left side.

This shows the 4x4 holes mounted centered:


My boot was way over the edge of the front and not over the back. So I moved these back as much as possible:


That brought me about 3/8" closer to the back, but it wasn't even close to enough. My boots looked like the example on the left here:



I did not know about the heelcup depth adjustment though, which john doe just pointed out. Depending how much room that buys me to get my boot back, it may solve my problem.

Quote:
Originally Posted by john doe View Post
Oh, one other thing I noticed. Since you are using a channel board you aren't set in what holes to use. Like you can turn the disk about 45 degrees and use two of the holes for teh 4X4 pattern to bolt down the binding. The degree numbers won't read right but that doesn't matter. Just another way to get more adjustment.
You can't actually do that btw. The 2x2 holes are slightly larger than the 4x4 holes, because the channel holes on the board have to fit through them. They're small cylinders on the board that protrude and stick up through the 2x2 holes, and don't fit through the 4x4 holes (I tried).

Last edited by jtg; 03-12-2013 at 02:31 PM.
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Old 03-12-2013, 05:36 PM   #428 (permalink)
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Good info. You will want to use a medium binding and start with the in the furthest back position in the slide that is just over 1 inch. That will be the best starting point. From the looks of it you are working with a 25.5 cm foot and a 25.5 cm board (at your stance witdth). That allows of no barefoot overhang with any stance angle. That is what we have to work with so this is a precision operation . It is most important that you center your foot, not the boot or the binding. Please send a photo of the boot that you will use once you have it mounted with the medium binding as above and we can fine tune.
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Old 03-12-2013, 05:51 PM   #429 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Wiredsport View Post
Good info. You will want to use a medium binding and start with the in the furthest back position in the slide that is just over 1 inch. That will be the best starting point. From the looks of it you are working with a 25.5 cm foot and a 25.5 cm board (at your stance witdth). That allows of no barefoot overhang with any stance angle. That is what we have to work with so this is a precision operation . It is most important that you center your foot, not the boot or the binding. Please send a photo of the boot that you will use once you have it mounted with the medium binding as above and we can fine tune.
I don't know where you are getting 1 inch from. Do you mean align them as shown in Pic #2 on my previous post? If so, you can see with the ruler that the left side of the plate goes from 3" in Pic 1, to 3 3/8" in Pic 2. A difference of only 3/8", not 1".

I just want to make sure I am clear before exchanging them again, because it will be hard to return them a third time if this doesn't work
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Old 03-12-2013, 06:06 PM   #430 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jtg View Post
I don't know where you are getting 1 inch from. Do you mean align them as shown in Pic #2 on my previous post? If so, you can see with the ruler that the left side of the plate goes from 3" in Pic 1, to 3 3/8" in Pic 2. A difference of only 3/8", not 1".

I just want to make sure I am clear before exchanging them again, because it will be hard to return them a third time if this doesn't work
Hi,

You wont get a full slide length difference if you are adjusting from the middle of the slide. You will want to start at the xtreme of the slide with the binding pushed all the way back. That is as good as you are going to get in terms of baseplate with this binding, this 25.5 cm wide board and your 25.5 cm boot.
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