d_hoot

I have to pull up on the latch rather than the backplate to keep the cable in. I get in by digging a slot in the front to keep from skidding - then stepping in.

KIRKRIDER

That's what you should do... and make sure you don't have a bunch of snow under your boot...that will force the cable out of the guides when you tighten it. Another way is to use whatever is around. A tree, a trash can, a bench.... to help you hold your balance and lock in.

__________________
2012/13 -12- Kirkwood days
Arbor A-Frame 158 2009-10
Jeremy Jones Hovercraft 156, 2011/12
Burton Driver-X
K2-Cinch-CTX
Subaru WRX 06

lisevolution

This is one of the core issues I had that made me get rid of the CTX's from last season and switch to the Ever's which is what I should have gotten in the first place. The cable never stayed in the guide and it got worse when I rotated the highbacks. Also while the idea is that it's easier to get in, the truth in practice is that it's just as or more difficult to reach behind you as it is to bend over in the front and strap in.

They also had so much lateral play that I didn't feel secure riding them hard...

KIRKRIDER

The assembly instruction do specify that you have to re tighten the cable IF you move your high backs..it's just mechanics...Never had an issue with my CTXs. A narrow profile boot helps too. I still find puling one single lever faster than adjusting two straps.

__________________
2012/13 -12- Kirkwood days
Arbor A-Frame 158 2009-10
Jeremy Jones Hovercraft 156, 2011/12
Burton Driver-X
K2-Cinch-CTX
Subaru WRX 06

sldrose

Hi everyone,
a quick update.

A local shop in Calgary was kind enough to speak to K2 on my behalf and organise an exchange for k2 National Autos.

I have to say i am very happy with the auto bindings, compared with the Cinch CTX.
The Cinch is a great idea, but not implemented well enough to be robust.

I dont know if i got a bad pair of CTX's, but they were too irratic with the cable slipping to be a convenience binding.

cheers.

Kwanzaa

Auto's are solid bindings. My only complaint is the toe strap likes to trip you when getting out of the binding sometimes.

d_hoot

I had the same problem - especially when pulling the highback up instead of pulling on the latch. I finally put a nylon screw in the binding close to the cable closest to the hinge. I used a 10-24 screw and used a 10-28 tap so the threads lock. No more problems.

edlo

Here is my solution , it works pretty well. I used yellow so you can see it better. My cts have a hole that I feed the zip ties through , easier than the screw tap solution. The problem is when you pull the high back up . It pulls the front buckle down without creating tension on the cable. The cable is pushed down and back. I have some of the original cinch that didn't have this problem. By the way I just put them on eBay.

Attached Images

image.jpg (86.2 KB, 26 views)

edlo

I don't know why there are holes in the heel cup , but they make a good place for zip ties for a cable retention system.

1) This is caused by friction between the cable and the heel cup when you kick the highback forward

2) The friction creates tension and tilts the heel cup.

3) The tilt brings down the buckles and creates slack with nowhere to go.

4) the slack pushes the cable backwards out of the guides.

5) When you pull the lock, the cables is already out of place

The original cinch had different cables and also a loop around the cables near the latch.

I was going to try teflon lube to reduce the friction, but found zip ties to be a far better solution.

Attached Images

cinch.JPG (120.9 KB, 17 views)