Argo

I would just get pissed off, destroy the whole fucking board and buy a new board and new base plates after I ripped my bindings off. perfect excuse for a new board.

geolemon

Don't backtrack and get this kid's equipment screwed up because you want to look like an expert on an internet forum. Replying "I've done this hundreds of times" doesn't make it less BS. It's dangerous.
I've probably been snowboarding longer than you've been alive, I've worked on all means of snowboards (and skis, before snowboards existed, in the 80s) over the years, and I'd never bring a torch near a board... closest thing would be a p-tex candle to fill a gouge. And even then, I wouldn't be lighting it with a torch, would I? (Since you claim to work at a shop, you know that -RIGHT?)

Heat expands metal. Just like a stuck bolt on a car. You'd heat the surrounding metal to expand it from the bolt to free the bolt. That's physics. That's how you use heat to free stuck bolts on cars, you heat the surrounding area. Heating the bolt will expand the bolt, making it harder to remove.
In this case, we can't anyway. We have a metal insert, a sleeve, that's simply bonded to our fiberglass/plastic/wood composite snowboard... And we couldn't get to the insert even if you had a micro-torch with heat shields, because there's a very melty plastic-and-foam binding in the way - the thing he's trying to loosen.
In a car, there's no collateral damage from heating a bolt - the surrounding area is solid metal. That's not the case here... not even close.

There's no reason to jeopardize this kid's binding. There's no reason to jeopardize the integrity of this kid's snowboard- particularly the insert that's bonded into the snowboard - with a torch.

No one - I mean NO ONE - who worked at a shop would ever - EVER - take a torch to customer equipment! The liability alone is obvious. If an employee took it upon themselves to "go rogue", bring in their own torch, and exercise this kind of stupidity on customer equipment, they'd be fired for liability alone. Imagine being a shop owner, walking in and seeing some kid holding a torch to your customer's gear?

Heat works to loosen stuck bolts on cars. If that's your mechanical expertise, leave it in the garage. Don't screw up this kid's equipment.

No one is advocating using brute force that I've seen here. The proper tool for this job is an impact gun.

Argo

Lmao........

Argo

The problem most likely isn't locktite.... It's the fact that these screws were installed in winter when it was cold. Now that it is warm where he is the metal is a nanometer or so bigger and stuck. Heat would make it tighter unless yo heated the metal insert in the board and cooled the screw. Heating the insert would fuck up the setting of it. Don't heat the screw or insert. If anything you should cool it down in a deep freeze or by setting it out on the porch over night when it's cold out. I live in the mountains so remember tha cold to me is under 10F.

This is why bolts come loose on the mountain too, aside from the lateral force. If the screws were tightened inside your 75 degree house then taken outside, they are now not set.... This allows the lateral force to pull and loosen the screws. I typically tighten my screws on my porch and never have to screw with them again..... They are stupid tight if I try to remove them in the spring/summer. Proper driver head helps to prevent stripping the heads when tight.

snowklinger

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is it late october yet?

geolemon

Exactly. That's a good thought on when the bolts were tightened.

If an impact driver isn't available through any of your friends or family, then rather than waiting until it's cold, you could drop by your local convenience store and buy a $5 bag of ice. Pour the rest into a cooler so it doesn't melt, in case you need to try numerous times.
Make a pile of ice inside your binding, so that it cools the bolt heads directly. And let it sit for a good long while.

In theory, that should cool the bolts, while the board more or less stays at room temperature (or outside temperature - I don't think you want ice melting indoors), which just might do the trick.

And that won't damage anything.

EDIT: in the event anyone thinks heat is a good idea on a snowboard, read up: Removing stuck fasteners
And in the event that you DO borrow an impact driver:
Just make sure you don't use it to re-install your bindings - that vibrational force can over-tighten just as easily as it can loosen things that were over-tightened.

slyder

You could also just wack the end of the screw driver. You don't need an impact driver for such a simple item. You won't break the tool or the board and if you do screw drivers are cheap, much cheaper than buying an impact driver.

This thread seems to have taken a turn for the worse.....Egos are on fire here

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-Slyder

ShredLife

i called timmyTARD a retard because he is a retard, you whiney pussy.

Loctite® Threadlocker Red 271™ is designed for the permanent locking and sealing of threaded fasteners. The product cures when confined in the absence of air between close fitting metal surfaces. It protects threads from rust and corrosion and prevents loosening from shock and vibration. It is only removable once cured by heating up parts to 500°F (260°C).

you don't have a clue what you're talking about.

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get the hell off my lawn.

Bones

My impact driver is great for taking stuck nuts off bolts. Not quite as good for taking bolts out of threaded holes as it can snap the bolt head off.

For taking screws out of things? It's 50/50 on rounding out a Robertson or Phillips head, depends on the "mesh" between the bit and the screw. If you're stripping out the head by hand, an impact driver is probably just going to do that faster.

All this is assuming that Red Loctite is the problem. I'd suspect that they're just torqued up a bit much and there's a little rust. Give them a good shot of PB Blaster every day for a couple of days and try again.

slyder

Will this adversely affect the inside of the board is my question...

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-Slyder