poutanen

To save this thread from getting any worse, bring the board up to Airdrie and I'll get the screws out. I'll take a 6-pack of Brewsters River City...

Chandler789

Go ahead and ignore most of the arguing in this thread.

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I have tried all of these methods in a lot of different scenarios. I work on motorcycles and small engines on the side.

Using the dermal to cut into the screw is not a bad idea, but I have a better one.

Using a impact wrench (electric or air) is also not a bad idea. The problem is this though:

Impact drivers are meant to implement a high amount of direct torque to free a bolt. Obviously no one is talking about using an air tool to do this, but think of it like that, 300-600lbs of torque on a screw head that will most likely snap off at about 30lbs of over tightening will probably break with the loctite, especially is applied quickly.

I am surprised I have not seen this suggested in this thread yet, ever heard of an EZ- out kit? Drill the screw out!

You do not need to use an expensive extractor, you can get these tools for five dollars at your hardware store. You only need two, a drill bit, and a square bit, The bit needs to be SLIGHLT smaller then the square bit.

You will use the bit to drill a hole straight into the screw, then hammer the square bit into the hole, creating a square hole out of the round one, and forcing the bit in place.

Leave the bit in, do not remove it. If you have an easy on/off attachment I would use that with the drill because now you have to get the drill onto the square bit which is still connected to the screw and board. Do not wiggle the bit or it will come free. Try to get the bit as deep as possible.


Put the drill in reverse and apply a tight tiger, do NOT use it like a torque wrench, you will strip the head again assuming it is an aluminum screw.

It should come free. If not, you can try a torque wrench at this point, and if that further strips it, a true east out drill extraction kit. (Reverse drill bit)

Here is a square drill bit, I would look for one with a bit more length on the actual bit.

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Bones

If it does, it was going to happen anyway.

Screw inserts are basically just glued into place. PB Blaster is a rust catalyst. If, for some bizarre reason, it it gets in and around the insert and then , for some bizarre reason, weakens the glue/resin, then the freeze/thaw cycle of melted snow is going to do the same thing.

Personally, I'd try PB Blaster. And then a whack with a hammer. And then some heat. After that's it's game on...drilling it out and re-threading, etc. I've even been known to tack weld a screwdriver bit on, but usually, by that point, I just want to win.

P3 Mammoth

Bolt heads strip out with very little torque if there is not enough downward pressure on the tool, basic mechanics. Our shop has literally hundreds of bolts with stripped out heads that have NEVER seen any loc-tite. I wouldn't assume that the board has been loc-tited, no reputable shop would ever do that for multiple reasons. I agree with what was posted previously that if they did use loc-tite don't ever let that shop touch your equipment again. Any shop with kids stupid enough to use loc-tite probably has a problem with repair/tech work in general.

Heat is not your board's friend and should be avoided at ALL COSTS. As was stated above it takes around 500 degrees to break down red loc-tite, epoxy also breaks down at these temperatures. Epoxy resin holds your board together and helps keep your inserts from spinning. Not to mention the fact that heating the screw will damage the disc holding the binding to the board.

Impact drivers aren't really that much better of a solution. Too much torque on the seized peices can work the inserts loose and allow them to spin. Be carefull with using a hammer also. The downward force can easily break the epoxy loose and allow spinning or worse it could push the entire assembly through the core and bubble the base. Ignore what a gunsmith tells you, he is working with components much stronger and resilient than the wood and epoxy core of your typical snowboard. In the battle between wood and metal, metal wins every time.

First advice, take it to a shop that knows what the heck they doing. If you are the DIY type, doubtfull as you let someone else set up your board already, slot the head with a dremel or use an easy out kit. If the screw head still strips out at that point then cut away the discs and get the binding off the board, discs are the cheapest part of your set-up to replace. Once the bolts are exposed you will be able to tell if the shop used loc-tite. If there is no loc-tite the bolt should turn out fairly easily.

Chandler789

I've done that as well.

Can you put new thread inserts into a board? Don't most of them have a plate in them now?

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aubzobot

Okay. Im gonna skip over the all the bickering here. The guys at the Source weren't dumb enought to use red loctite, just the blue stuff. I just heated up the screwdriver with the torch, put it in the head for a little then turned. Screws came out. Thanks for all the advice and now ive got bindings on my new board.

geolemon

That you even typed that out shows you don't have any real life experience with loctite. That's a nice marketing snippet you copied.

I've spent about 15 years in production fabrication both hobby and professionally, and my whole life as a car enthusiast, working on my own cars and projects, and I've used plenty of loctite across more applications than I can think of... I can tell you this - you don't need 500 degrees or generally much more than a standard wrench to break it free. Even red loctite (which used to be "the only loctite").
It's purpose is the equivalent of using a locknut rather than a standard nut, in application... so your bolts don't vibrate loose, in a high-temperature application like an engine.

And again - if a shop used red loctite on a snowboard, that would show ignorance on part of that employee, and they would have been going rogue by doing something like that, since that would never be a truly professional shop's policy. We don't even know that's the case here - and if any loctite actually was used, we don't know what type.

I suspect as mentioned earlier, this relates to trying to get them off in warm weather.... and heating the bolts will make things worse in that respect.

Think. Don't vomit ignorance out of your mouth and say it's the rest of the world who doesn't know what they are talking about. Reality is a real thing. Get out there and experience it... then speak from experience, not ignorance.

slyder

5 pages of ideas and it's out in 5 seconds so uneventful ...

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Thanks
-Slyder

timmytard

Ya, I had a feeling there wouldn't be any red loctite in there.

It was never stated that there was loctite on the screws, but thanks for the lesson.

Snowwolf, just because someone disagrees with your opinion, doesn't mean that theirs is wrong & that yours is automatically right.
But I'm sure you'd disagree with me on that too, so obviously I must be wrong?(this means it's a joke) I really don't want to have to write that after every that I post.



You seem to have got a little but hurt, no need for temper tantrums.

So it looks like shedhead, doesn't have the best solution

Chalk one up for Slyder & Tim Tim.

I'm not seein' the hate in there anywhere, + I don't know if you want a pissing match with someone with piss-menship like this?
Untitled on Vimeo.

I'd pee a Z across your chest before you could even get your diaper off.

I'm actually pretty careful, considering the shit I do. If I wasn't, I would have died long ago.

Shredhead, it's just cause you have a vagina that you see the things I do as retarded. So wash the sand out of that thing
They're not self cleaning ovens you know!!

Sometimes my extremely large balls are a little too big though, so I should be able to lend you @ least 1.

Hugs & kisses
TT

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If whatever doesn't kill you, only makes you stronger.

Then I am so close to immortality

geolemon

Hey - pot, that kettle is looking pretty black.
I don't think "Oh, so you've worked at a shop?" could be interpreted as anything but prickish and condescending. Don't accuse me of that - I responded.

Further, I actually explained the logic on WHY what you said was risky and unprofessional, and if he used that method and it worked for him, it doesn't make it any less so.
I was looking out for his best interest by pointing out the risks. That certainly doesn't make me uncivil.

If you are going to make threats to people who post on behalf of people's best interest, that's pretty immature (that's a judgement on my part) and very inappropriate (that's objective) for someone who's in a position of being a moderator. Call all that "my opinion" and do with it what you like.
Like it or not, you are a moderator. There's responsibility in that. You've got a higher standard to adhere to (I'm a moderator myself on an engineering forum,and an automotive forum). Your personally challenging comment that I responded to was inappropriate by that measure, and certainly had disrespect and vitriol - as does this:
It's "intelligence" btw.

I apologize for my reaction, if that came through stronger than the points I made. Certainly there was some reaction there.