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Old 01-08-2013, 09:12 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default No adjustment left with Diodes and Supermodel X

I purchased a new (off the shelf) 2010 Supermodel X board and new 2013 Diode EST bindings, separately. The bindings are a size medium and I also have size 8.5 Imperial boots. When i mounted the bindings, I had to move them as far to the toe side as allowable. The back (right) foot is still off center, although slightly, to the heel side. I had an older pair of Cartels mounted on her prior to these. The Cartels were centered on the board yet the back foot binding still had a quarter (or more) of its travel left to move closer to the toe side if needed (I'd guess 1/4-3/8 of an inch without actually measuring). Attached are some pictures which might help see my issue. Is there anything I can do to get these bindings more on center and not be maxed out for travel?

The above paragraph was sent to Burton and they didn't offer much help when I called in to discuss this. They stated that it is doubtful that I would drag the heel, which I agree with, and that I could angle the binding some more. Being that this is a directional board I only angled the back binding -3 degrees originally. I did increase that to about -7 degrees and of course it's better but it's also not the answer I was looking for. I do not ride switch on this much like I would on a twin. Burton did ask what my concern was and it is that even if the set up rides well I am out of adjustment should I need to make any.

Anyone have some advice or run into this issue? Could the issue be the bindings?
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_20130104_203332.jpg (93.9 KB, 53 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_20130104_204159.jpg (98.8 KB, 44 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_20130104_204208.jpg (96.8 KB, 48 views)
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Old 01-08-2013, 09:35 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Looks fine to me. If you were to lean the board back on on the heel side you'd need about 70 degree angle to drag the heel. That's pretty aggressive carving.

I wear size 10 boots and use medium bindings (EST) and generally the binding is centred to give equal overhang. With size 8 boots I'd expect that you would want to push the bindings towards the toe side since the heel of the boot doesn't change placement in the binding so you have to move it to the toe side to balance things out. So I would expect that you would need the binding pushed forward to make up for the shorter length of your boot compared to mine.

I guess the risk is that if you feel you need to go more toeside you are stuck, but I am confused by your first picture; it looks like you still have room to move the binding to the toeside based on the screw heads.
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Old 01-08-2013, 09:40 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Default Oh Burton

I've always hated burton's binding systems. Now they managed to create a system with infinite adjustability. To me, infinite adjustability = infinite opportunities to get a headache from frustration. My advice- buy a different brand of bindings and board. Since that's not really practical because you already have the set up, from the pictures your set up doesn't look that bad really. It would take a pretty serious heelside carve to feel any drag. Unfortunately with those bindings you have no ability to adjust the heelcup to fit your boots better (sliding the heelcup by itself forward or backward). What size are the bindings (small, medium, large, extra large)? It could be an issue of the binding size being ideal for something like 8-10 and you're just on the small size of the binding so your boot will be centered differently than the binding center if that makes any sense.
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Old 01-08-2013, 09:49 AM   #4 (permalink)
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The screw locations make it look as if it can move forward although the binding is truly maxed out in travel toward the toe side. Lamps, you are seeing it right. If the board was glass and you look at the bottom, you would see that the heel side of the position indicator (for the stance width) is hitting the cutout in the footbed.

This is the first Burton I've owned after having a few Rides and a Never Summer. I liked the Never Summer Premier but wanted something a little stiffer although I couldn't find much. The Cartels make it a nice set up but I wanted a little more response, hence buying the Diodes. The bindings are M and boots are 8.5 so on the low end of the range.

I realize it's highly doubtful I'd need to worry about dragging the heel, especially riding mainly in the midwest. Just curious if anyone has run into this when I was expecting two different binding models, but the same size, to have an expected similar setup.

Last edited by cricketsmoke; 01-08-2013 at 10:03 AM.
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Old 01-08-2013, 10:15 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cricketsmoke View Post
The screw locations make it look as if it can move forward although the binding is truly maxed out in travel toward the toe side. Lamps, you are seeing it right. If the board was glass and you look at the bottom, you would see that the heel side of the position indicator (for the stance width) is hitting the cutout in the footbed.

This is the first Burton I've owned after having a few Rides and a Never Summer. I liked the Never Summer Premier but wanted something a little stiffer although I couldn't find much. The Cartels make it a nice set up but I wanted a little more response, hence buying the Diodes. The bindings are M and boots are 8.5 so on the low end of the range.

I realize it's highly doubtful I'd need to worry about dragging the heel, especially riding mainly in the midwest. Just curious if anyone has run into this when I was expecting two different binding models, but the same size, to have an expected similar setup.
I think that if you need adjustment you can do one of two things to get it:

1) us an exacto knife to trim the tab off the position indicator to get more room, or

2) let the position indicator not sit in the channel but sit on the deck of the board - you might do this for a run or two to see if you like the new setting and then go to #1 above.

This seems like a design flaw to me the indicator shouldn't hold you back from adjusting.

I am getting my diodes next week and will have a look at this too
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Old 01-08-2013, 11:40 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lamps View Post
I think that if you need adjustment you can do one of two things to get it:

1) us an exacto knife to trim the tab off the position indicator to get more room, or

2) let the position indicator not sit in the channel but sit on the deck of the board - you might do this for a run or two to see if you like the new setting and then go to #1 above.

This seems like a design flaw to me the indicator shouldn't hold you back from adjusting.

I am getting my diodes next week and will have a look at this too
Something to try at least, let me know how your setup looks when you have it done please.
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Old 01-08-2013, 12:44 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arrrmaty View Post
I've always hated burton's binding systems. Now they managed to create a system with infinite adjustability. To me, infinite adjustability = infinite opportunities to get a headache from frustration. My advice- buy a different brand of bindings and board.


OP, you're on the right track with it just being the indicator holding you back. If you wanted to you could push your bindings another inch towards to the toe side.

Although I think the main issue here is how you're measuring overhang. You want to strap the boots in, then lift the toe edge while pressing the heel edge into the floor/counter. When the heel or heelcup touches measure the angle (a lot of smartphones have anglemeter apps these days, or just use cardboard). Do the same with the toe edge until it touches.

It looks to me like your bindings are fine in fact they may need to go back towards the heelside a bit!
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Old 01-08-2013, 02:18 PM   #8 (permalink)
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That's nothing I've ever read before, only to measure/view the toe and heel overhang then compare. I'll measure the angles. Thanks for the input.
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Old 01-08-2013, 02:21 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Do you ride with "0" Angles?



Quote:
Originally Posted by cricketsmoke View Post
I purchased a new (off the shelf) 2010 Supermodel X board and new 2013 Diode EST bindings, separately. The bindings are a size medium and I also have size 8.5 Imperial boots. When i mounted the bindings, I had to move them as far to the toe side as allowable. The back (right) foot is still off center, although slightly, to the heel side. I had an older pair of Cartels mounted on her prior to these. The Cartels were centered on the board yet the back foot binding still had a quarter (or more) of its travel left to move closer to the toe side if needed (I'd guess 1/4-3/8 of an inch without actually measuring). Attached are some pictures which might help see my issue. Is there anything I can do to get these bindings more on center and not be maxed out for travel?

The above paragraph was sent to Burton and they didn't offer much help when I called in to discuss this. They stated that it is doubtful that I would drag the heel, which I agree with, and that I could angle the binding some more. Being that this is a directional board I only angled the back binding -3 degrees originally. I did increase that to about -7 degrees and of course it's better but it's also not the answer I was looking for. I do not ride switch on this much like I would on a twin. Burton did ask what my concern was and it is that even if the set up rides well I am out of adjustment should I need to make any.

Anyone have some advice or run into this issue? Could the issue be the bindings?
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Old 01-08-2013, 02:39 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Do you ride with "0" Angles?
Nope, 15 in front and -7 in the rear.

Part of my expectation in mounting the Diodes is that the same foot angles and stance width could yield similar centering on the board as the Cartels had. This is not true following my method of centering the bindings. The Diode cannot be centered although the Cartels can and have flexibility adjusting in either direction, if needed.
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