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post #111 of 125 (permalink) Old 01-16-2013, 01:50 PM
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So I got to ride my first pair of Unionís. I was at the hill the other day and ran into a guy I knew from around town and he really wanted to try my Bezerker. So I was like sure why not I get to try a Capita DOA and Union bindings, cool. We did three runs on each otherís boards and I must say that I loved how playful his setup was compared to mine. Anyways I was Contacts and without changing any setup on them they worked really well I thought. The toe cap fit my RFLís well, no slipping off or anything, held them down really tight. The toe strap buckle is a little weird, but after reading over this thread I knew how to get them off. Overall from that 3 run test I would consider buying a pair for sure. I also really loved the DOA board, that thing was awesome. Off topic a little, I think I am going to try a few more softer shorter boards than my Bezerker, but I think I may be in the market for a trade.
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post #112 of 125 (permalink) Old 01-16-2013, 02:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Leo View Post
My 390's looked like shit after two days on snow...
Yeah I had similar experience...my Rome Mobs were fkd after 3 days on the hill, disappointing yes, but rather than whine constantly on a message board I spoke immediately with Rome and got the spare parts delivered quickly. Problem solved. Who cares if they get dinged up riding, they are bindings...what do people expect?! Just make sure they work and do their job and who cares if there's a scratch here or there or the color has faded??!
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post #113 of 125 (permalink) Old 01-16-2013, 04:15 PM
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My 390's looked like shit after two days on snow...
I have 2012's, 3 days now, and I don't see any damage really. I got them cheap so I'm expecting them to get fucked up. But so far, no.
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post #114 of 125 (permalink) Old 01-17-2013, 01:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Gdog42 View Post
Nope. The metal components look like they're painted with an enamel. It's a gloss finish on the DLX and a matte finish on the Force. There doesn't seem to be a clear coat on them, which would help protect the paint. I think that that's all Union's missing.

The paint on mine has held up great besides a little scraping on the corners of the heel loops (where they've contacted the snow over time) and on the lower edges of the toe ratchets. That was after a whole season of using them, so the paint itself is pretty durable. It would last longer though with a clear coat, unless they already have one and I just haven't noticed.
--- Think im going to open up shop to snowboarders and start powder coating bindings any color they can come up with and or basecoat/clear coat the color of their choice.

I still find it hard to believe they use a basic enamel paint job on them. Makes sense though since its very cheap.
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post #115 of 125 (permalink) Old 01-17-2013, 07:53 AM
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--- Think im going to open up shop to snowboarders and start powder coating bindings any color they can come up with and or basecoat/clear coat the color of their choice.

I still find it hard to believe they use a basic enamel paint job on them. Makes sense though since its very cheap.

Sounds like a good idea. For Union bindings, you'd only be able to paint the heel loop though, since that's the only painted individual metal part. There are the ratchets, but they have plastic components and can't be taken apart.
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post #116 of 125 (permalink) Old 01-17-2013, 03:54 PM
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2013 union binding &gt;HELP&lt;

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Originally Posted by Gdog42 View Post
Sounds like a good idea. For Union bindings, you'd only be able to paint the heel loop though, since that's the only painted individual metal part. There are the ratchets, but they have plastic components and can't be taken apart.
--- There is low temp powder coat available. Down in the 350 degree range for when you bake the powder. Wonder if that would melt the plastic, or just low enough to not.

I'm new to the scene but if this is a common problem with bindings in general. I don't see why people don't offer this as a service.

Could make someone keep their bindings for an extra season or 2 maybe 3... The price savings would be considerable too. Drop 40-60$ on getting all your metal parts redone any color you want instead of 160-300$ on new bindings.
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post #117 of 125 (permalink) Old 01-17-2013, 04:06 PM
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I think Union sell spare heel loops on the C3 website for anyone who is concerned with paint chipping...but again, why would anyone be so concerned about paint chipping...?! Use 'em till they fall apart then buy new ones!
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post #118 of 125 (permalink) Old 01-17-2013, 04:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Mfoehrkolb View Post
I'm new to the scene but if this is a common problem with bindings in general. I don't see why people don't offer this as a service.
because for the most part no one gives a shit.
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post #119 of 125 (permalink) Old 01-17-2013, 04:22 PM
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2013 union binding &gt;HELP&lt;

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Originally Posted by ShredLife View Post
because for the most part no one gives a shit.
--- ... Touchť sir.

What about all the girls out there that care? (figuratively and literally)

My girlfriend is so upset about the scuff she received on the top of her board when a skier slid over it lol.
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post #120 of 125 (permalink) Old 01-17-2013, 08:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Mfoehrkolb View Post
--- There is low temp powder coat available. Down in the 350 degree range for when you bake the powder. Wonder if that would melt the plastic, or just low enough to not.

I'm new to the scene but if this is a common problem with bindings in general. I don't see why people don't offer this as a service.

Could make someone keep their bindings for an extra season or 2 maybe 3... The price savings would be considerable too. Drop 40-60$ on getting all your metal parts redone any color you want instead of 160-300$ on new bindings.
350 degrees (F or C) is still quite high for plastic, and different binding brands use different plastics at different densities. Union uses a Dupont resin which is really dense, but I still wouldn't risk it, unless you could remove the plastic components and only paint the metal ones. Wouldn't you also have to remove the original paint first? The irremovable plastic parts in the way would make that complicated anyway...

Or you could just repaint them in a high-grade enamel and apply a tough, weatherproof and flexible clear coat for protection.

Last edited by Gdog42; 01-17-2013 at 08:46 PM.
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