Damn it alive!!!!! - Page 3 - Snowboarding Forum

MochaBeans · 02-11-2013, 09:47 AM

Put the screws into matching holes (2nd hole and 2nd hole or something) and then just rotate the binding around the disk more, might help

edlo · 02-11-2013, 10:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MochaBeans

Put the screws into matching holes (2nd hole and 2nd hole or something) and then just rotate the binding around the disk more, might help

That's what I tried to say. MochaBeans did a much better job

Joe Coffee · 02-11-2013, 12:46 PM

Ok apparently I am doing something wrong because no one has had this problem. I can't find anyone on the internet having this problem and guys in skate shops said they have never seen the problem before. So here is what I am doing. Maybe you guys can point out something wrong I am doing.

Step 1: I put the M6 sliders in the channel.

Step 2: I put the binding on the board and put the two sliders up through corresponding holes on the disc. (Meaning both inserts are in hole 2 or hole 3 etc)

Step 3: I use a number 2 phillips screwdriver (Does a number 3 tighten better?) to tighten 13mm burton screws and union washers. I Tighten till I can not tighten them anymore.

I have been thinking maybe the problem is as simple as not having them tight enough? Does a number 3 screwdriver work better other than fit better in the screw?

J.Schaef · 02-11-2013, 02:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Joe Coffee

Ok apparently I am doing something wrong because no one has had this problem. I can't find anyone on the internet having this problem and guys in skate shops said they have never seen the problem before. So here is what I am doing. Maybe you guys can point out something wrong I am doing.

Step 1: I put the M6 sliders in the channel.

Step 2: I put the binding on the board and put the two sliders up through corresponding holes on the disc. (Meaning both inserts are in hole 2 or hole 3 etc)

Step 3: I use a number 2 phillips screwdriver (Does a number 3 tighten better?) to tighten 13mm burton screws and union washers. I Tighten till I can not tighten them anymore.

I have been thinking maybe the problem is as simple as not having them tight enough? Does a number 3 screwdriver work better other than fit better in the screw?

Yes. Everything sounds correct aside from the screwdriver. You want a #3.

airblaster503 · 02-11-2013, 10:34 PM

Get some Burton hardware for the bindings. With that channel setup they have, I am guessing the Union hardware for normal inserts is to long, which is leaving a little room for play even when the screws are tight. That is the only reason that the bindings would move positions the way they are. I am almost positive though that boards with the channel set up require shorter hardware to fight against this. Should be able to get some from any burton dealer for cheap/free.

edlo · 02-12-2013, 12:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Joe Coffee

guys in skate shops said they have never seen the problem before.

I hope it is a skate and snowboard shop. I noticed you are in Canada, otherwise I'd send you a P3 bit for 2 bucks paypaled. You can get it at a autoparts store or hardware, or maybe even the skate shop that you use. Something buying it bundled with a bunch of other bits as a kit is acutally pretty cheap like $1-$2. But you've probally have already used a P3 at the Chalet, the one chained to the work bench is usually a P3. So it is either the screw lengths , or the orientiation of the disk.

I realized that some of my comments might be off since I initially was comparing your left and right binding not realizing they were different.
Does the binding start with screw in holes 2 and 3 then moves somewhere different to 2 and 2 or even 1 and 2? Does the indication start and 15 then move to 6?

Joe Coffee · 02-12-2013, 01:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by airblaster503

Get some Burton hardware for the bindings. With that channel setup they have, I am guessing the Union hardware for normal inserts is to long, which is leaving a little room for play even when the screws are tight. That is the only reason that the bindings would move positions the way they are. I am almost positive though that boards with the channel set up require shorter hardware to fight against this. Should be able to get some from any burton dealer for cheap/free.

What do you mean? Shorter Screws? I am using all the neccesary hardware.

Burton M6 Sliders.

Burton 13mm screws (shorter than normal union screws)

Joe Coffee · 02-12-2013, 01:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by edlo

I hope it is a skate and snowboard shop. I noticed you are in Canada, otherwise I'd send you a P3 bit for 2 bucks paypaled. You can get it at a autoparts store or hardware, or maybe even the skate shop that you use. Something buying it bundled with a bunch of other bits as a kit is acutally pretty cheap like $1-$2. But you've probally have already used a P3 at the Chalet, the one chained to the work bench is usually a P3. So it is either the screw lengths , or the orientiation of the disk.

I realized that some of my comments might be off since I initially was comparing your left and right binding not realizing they were different.
Does the binding start with screw in holes 2 and 3 then moves somewhere different to 2 and 2 or even 1 and 2? Does the indication start and 15 then move to 6?

The indication moves all over the place. 15 then to 6 was just one of the many positions it shifts to. It shifts all overt he place. My screws are in holes 2 and 2 (middle holes.) they move all over. I am using 13mm screws from burton. Should I be using the regular 16mm screws from union?

Cyfer · 02-12-2013, 07:06 AM

It's been a while since I worked in a shop so I hope my information isn't too out of date. Use the 13 mm screws, they need to be shorter since the mounting hardware is not recessed into the boards top sheet. I would suspect your discs here, unless you base plates are warped. What I would try is simple, and cost you a lot less than new bindings. New discs and hardware first. You should be able to get everything you need with two phone calls, one to C3 and the other to Burton. I wouldn't be surprised for free. Try replacing all your hardware M6 sliders and bolts as well (due to heavy tightening something could be bent slightly) and the discs, before dumping two or three bills on new bindings. What do you have to lose by trying that, 10 bucks or so?

Don't cut off the head to stop the headache first. Try the cheap route, if it still is screwed up then I would replace your bindings because your baseplates might be warped causing play when the board flexes. Hope it's just the discs, good luck.

Joe Coffee · 02-12-2013, 10:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cyfer

It's been a while since I worked in a shop so I hope my information isn't too out of date. Use the 13 mm screws, they need to be shorter since the mounting hardware is not recessed into the boards top sheet. I would suspect your discs here, unless you base plates are warped. What I would try is simple, and cost you a lot less than new bindings. New discs and hardware first. You should be able to get everything you need with two phone calls, one to C3 and the other to Burton. I wouldn't be surprised for free. Try replacing all your hardware M6 sliders and bolts as well (due to heavy tightening something could be bent slightly) and the discs, before dumping two or three bills on new bindings. What do you have to lose by trying that, 10 bucks or so?

Don't cut off the head to stop the headache first. Try the cheap route, if it still is screwed up then I would replace your bindings because your baseplates might be warped causing play when the board flexes. Hope it's just the discs, good luck.

Yeah I went and got new hardware from burton and discs from union. I also have a disc from burton on the way. I am going to install the news discs and put some padding underneath the binding and tighten the screws well with a #3 screwdriver. It should work this time around. If not I am going to nuke down a hill into a tree. (Or maybe I should call union and ask for a new pair of bindings in the event these ones are warped?)

02-11-2013, 12:46 PM	#23 (permalink)
Joe Coffee Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2012 Location: Alberta, Canada Posts: 113	Ok apparently I am doing something wrong because no one has had this problem. I can't find anyone on the internet having this problem and guys in skate shops said they have never seen the problem before. So here is what I am doing. Maybe you guys can point out something wrong I am doing. Step 1: I put the M6 sliders in the channel. Step 2: I put the binding on the board and put the two sliders up through corresponding holes on the disc. (Meaning both inserts are in hole 2 or hole 3 etc) Step 3: I use a number 2 phillips screwdriver (Does a number 3 tighten better?) to tighten 13mm burton screws and union washers. I Tighten till I can not tighten them anymore. I have been thinking maybe the problem is as simple as not having them tight enough? Does a number 3 screwdriver work better other than fit better in the screw? __________________ Current Setup Burton Super Hero 2013 151cm, Union Force Bindings 2013, Burton Hail Boots.

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02-11-2013, 09:47 AM	#21 (permalink)
MochaBeans Junior Member Join Date: Feb 2013 Posts: 12	Put the screws into matching holes (2nd hole and 2nd hole or something) and then just rotate the binding around the disk more, might help

02-11-2013, 10:34 PM	#25 (permalink)
airblaster503 Member Join Date: Dec 2012 Posts: 47	Get some Burton hardware for the bindings. With that channel setup they have, I am guessing the Union hardware for normal inserts is to long, which is leaving a little room for play even when the screws are tight. That is the only reason that the bindings would move positions the way they are. I am almost positive though that boards with the channel set up require shorter hardware to fight against this. Should be able to get some from any burton dealer for cheap/free.

02-12-2013, 07:06 AM	#29 (permalink)
Cyfer Member Join Date: Feb 2013 Posts: 99	It's been a while since I worked in a shop so I hope my information isn't too out of date. Use the 13 mm screws, they need to be shorter since the mounting hardware is not recessed into the boards top sheet. I would suspect your discs here, unless you base plates are warped. What I would try is simple, and cost you a lot less than new bindings. New discs and hardware first. You should be able to get everything you need with two phone calls, one to C3 and the other to Burton. I wouldn't be surprised for free. Try replacing all your hardware M6 sliders and bolts as well (due to heavy tightening something could be bent slightly) and the discs, before dumping two or three bills on new bindings. What do you have to lose by trying that, 10 bucks or so? Don't cut off the head to stop the headache first. Try the cheap route, if it still is screwed up then I would replace your bindings because your baseplates might be warped causing play when the board flexes. Hope it's just the discs, good luck.