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Damn it alive!!!!!

7K views 37 replies 12 participants last post by  edlo 
#1 · (Edited)
Ok so here is the problem. (NO THIS IS NOT ANOTHER UNION TOE STRAP THREAD)


I have a pair of Union forces (2013) and I ride a burton channel board. (2013 burton superhero). I bought the conversion disc for union bindings so they can be mounted on a burton channel board. I installed them and got the necessary hardware to mount them. (M6 hardware 13mm screws). HOWEVER when they are mounted and I ride with them they ROTATE. For instance they will be at 15 degrees at the top of the hill and then they will be at like 6 degrees at the bottom of the hill. My screws are tight and I mean TIGHT. They have been tightened with a screw driver not a power tool. The weird thing is the screws are still crazy tight when the binding rotates. The bindings do not slide up and down the channel though. They stay in place its just this f$$$$$ disc keeps rotating. This is really pissing me off because i have to go back to the chalet and take the bindings off and re align them losing a lot of time. So basically what can I do to fix this problem? I am at the point now were I want to just cement the damn disc to the board.



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As you can see the bindings are shifting. They should be in line with the reference point on the board.
 

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#3 ·
Call them up and tell them their disks are defective.

Alternatively if you don't care about adjusting your angles then just glue the plate to the binding.
The plate is not rotating within the binding. Its rotating over the screws if you know what I mean.
 
#7 ·
OP: Call C3, the baseplates probably need replacing. Maybe if you are lucky, they will send you some. If you have to buy them, at least they are cheap. I seem to remember some of the baseplates from other binding companies being a bit problematic with burtons channel system.



Productive post. I have quite a few Channel boards, and I love all of them. I think the channel and EST bindings is pretty fantastic.
 
#6 ·
The bolts are jumping from one location in the binding plate to another? That's what it looks like from the pix. Seems to me that would mean that the bolts and washers aren't the right profile for the concave sections in the slots, OR you're not making sure the bolts are sitting right in those concave sections when tightening, OR the bolts don't seat properly in there for some other reason -- like they're too long and bottom out before they form a snug fit. Or maybe there's supposed to be a pad underneath the plate that would increase the height slightly.

These are all just random guesses. But the alternative is that you're so hard on your equipment that you're able to deform the plates enough to have the bindings jump to another position. And you'd think the manufacturer would have heard about that kind of problem if it happened a lot.
 
#16 ·
Washers

. Seems to me that would mean that the bolts and washers aren't the right profile for the concave sections in the slot.
Not all washers are the same. If you've ever seen the k2 flat washer you know why different they can be not to mention impossible to find. If you currently have any type of foam or dampening material between the board and binding it might be compressing as you ride , jump, or land. If it compresses the whole disc will be a able to move. There is a reason why Burton's screw mounts are as far away from eachother as possible.

The two point mounting system doesn't help because it is designed to flex. As the board flexes , it will push the screw up allowing movement , that is why your screws are still tight when you get to the bottom. You can 1)try to add friction under the disc with padding as some have mentioned, 2) add padding to the outside of the disk to absorb the board flexing 3) try different washer 4) get new bindings.
 

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#8 ·
Thanks for the suggestions guys but I have tightened the hell out of the screws, Made sure the washers are seated correctly etc etc. I am just thinking now selling the bindings and buying some burton bindings to go with it.
 
#23 ·
Ok apparently I am doing something wrong because no one has had this problem. I can't find anyone on the internet having this problem and guys in skate shops said they have never seen the problem before. So here is what I am doing. Maybe you guys can point out something wrong I am doing.


Step 1: I put the M6 sliders in the channel.

Step 2: I put the binding on the board and put the two sliders up through corresponding holes on the disc. (Meaning both inserts are in hole 2 or hole 3 etc)

Step 3: I use a number 2 phillips screwdriver (Does a number 3 tighten better?) to tighten 13mm burton screws and union washers. I Tighten till I can not tighten them anymore.

I have been thinking maybe the problem is as simple as not having them tight enough? Does a number 3 screwdriver work better other than fit better in the screw?
 
#25 ·
Get some Burton hardware for the bindings. With that channel setup they have, I am guessing the Union hardware for normal inserts is to long, which is leaving a little room for play even when the screws are tight. That is the only reason that the bindings would move positions the way they are. I am almost positive though that boards with the channel set up require shorter hardware to fight against this. Should be able to get some from any burton dealer for cheap/free.
 
#29 ·
It's been a while since I worked in a shop so I hope my information isn't too out of date. Use the 13 mm screws, they need to be shorter since the mounting hardware is not recessed into the boards top sheet. I would suspect your discs here, unless you base plates are warped. What I would try is simple, and cost you a lot less than new bindings. New discs and hardware first. You should be able to get everything you need with two phone calls, one to C3 and the other to Burton. I wouldn't be surprised for free. Try replacing all your hardware M6 sliders and bolts as well (due to heavy tightening something could be bent slightly) and the discs, before dumping two or three bills on new bindings. What do you have to lose by trying that, 10 bucks or so?

Don't cut off the head to stop the headache first. Try the cheap route, if it still is screwed up then I would replace your bindings because your baseplates might be warped causing play when the board flexes. Hope it's just the discs, good luck.
 
#30 ·
Yeah I went and got new hardware from burton and discs from union. I also have a disc from burton on the way. I am going to install the news discs and put some padding underneath the binding and tighten the screws well with a #3 screwdriver. It should work this time around. If not I am going to nuke down a hill into a tree. (Or maybe I should call union and ask for a new pair of bindings in the event these ones are warped?)
 
#33 ·
I think that may be the problem.warped baseplates. I have new baseplates from union on the way as well as a conversion discs from burton. if none of this works I am finished with union because I will ditch union bindings before i ditch burton boards.
 
#34 ·
If it doesn't work at least you tried everything possible to fix it. I hope everything works out and you can avoid shelling out the scratch for new bindings. On a high not, if you end up getting new bindings and go with burton EST you will get the full benefit if the EST system.
 
#35 ·
I FIXED IT. This time around I did things differently.

You have to use the washers provided by union NOT the black ones providied by burton that you get with the 13mm screws.

Plus you have to use a #3 screw driver (duh). You may think a #2 will work but it wont get the screws tight enough. USe a number 3.

Use some threadlock of some sort.
 
#36 ·
Take it easy with the loctite you don't want to put too much, if you ever take out the screw make sure there isn't any loctite at the bottom of the holes when reinstalling. Too much loctite collected at the bottoms can actually cause problems. Shops around here will actually give you free screw with loctite on it.
 
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