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post #1 of 21 (permalink) Old 02-13-2013, 06:52 PM Thread Starter
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Loctite

Ok so can I or can't apply loctite to my binding screws? I hear i cant because it will weaken the disc and i hear I can but i need to allow the stuff to dry before i screw it in. Wont it be ineffective when it has dried? Please help.(P.S What do you guys think of a little bit of epoxy on your screws? I tried it and seemed to hold very well and I was able to unscrew the screws as well. Good/ bad?

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Burton Super Hero 2013 151cm, Union Force Bindings 2013, Burton Hail Boots.
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post #2 of 21 (permalink) Old 02-13-2013, 07:01 PM
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Blue loctite, let id dry. Most screws now come with loctite on them from the factory.

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post #3 of 21 (permalink) Old 02-13-2013, 07:20 PM Thread Starter
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ok yes but why do i have to let it dry before i screw it in? Plus the loctite that comes from the factory on the screws doesn't last forever.

Current Setup
Burton Super Hero 2013 151cm, Union Force Bindings 2013, Burton Hail Boots.
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post #4 of 21 (permalink) Old 02-13-2013, 07:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Joe Coffee View Post
ok yes but why do i have to let it dry before i screw it in? Plus the loctite that comes from the factory on the screws doesn't last forever.
Nope you can put it on wet probably better that way I always put it on dry so I my screws don't get stuck( I use a screw gun to tighten). And locktite isnt built to be repeatedly unscrewed once you get your bindings set leave em.

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post #5 of 21 (permalink) Old 02-13-2013, 07:51 PM
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The factory loctite doesn't last forever because it's dried on the screws. Screw it in and out a few times and it's gone. If you never plan on changing your bindings or angles, then use 2 drops of blue loctite wet on the screws. If you want them to be easy to remove to change angles or bindings then let the loctite dry on the screws first. NEVER use any other color loctite, red will strip out aluminum threads and green requires a torch to remove.

You can use teflon tape instead of blue loctite if you want, both do the same thing and don't let the screws loosen from vibration.
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post #6 of 21 (permalink) Old 02-13-2013, 11:13 PM Thread Starter
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Ok sounds good. I didn't wreck anything with the epoxy did I? the screws came out just fine with it on and dry.

Current Setup
Burton Super Hero 2013 151cm, Union Force Bindings 2013, Burton Hail Boots.
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post #7 of 21 (permalink) Old 02-13-2013, 11:44 PM
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Don't use red. It is high temp and requires lots of heat to break the bond. If I use blue, drop it on the screw and put the screw in right away. Just be aware that if u use locktite a lot on your screws it will build a layer of crust in the screw hole. Every time you remove the screws, use a pick to remove the crusty shit from the holes. If u do not you will create little bumps on the bottom of your board because the screw won't have enough room to seat all the way down. The crust will make it seem like the screw is to long and if you over tighten the screw with the crusty shit still in it will make the bump. I use locktite on all of my boards. Just be aware of this and you will be fine.
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post #8 of 21 (permalink) Old 02-14-2013, 01:07 AM Thread Starter
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Don't use red. It is high temp and requires lots of heat to break the bond. If I use blue, drop it on the screw and put the screw in right away. Just be aware that if u use locktite a lot on your screws it will build a layer of crust in the screw hole. Every time you remove the screws, use a pick to remove the crusty shit from the holes. If u do not you will create little bumps on the bottom of your board because the screw won't have enough room to seat all the way down. The crust will make it seem like the screw is to long and if you over tighten the screw with the crusty shit still in it will make the bump. I use locktite on all of my boards. Just be aware of this and you will be fine.
yeah I'm using a burton channel board so this is a non issue.

Current Setup
Burton Super Hero 2013 151cm, Union Force Bindings 2013, Burton Hail Boots.
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post #9 of 21 (permalink) Old 02-14-2013, 04:12 AM
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.
You can use teflon tape instead of blue loctite if you want, both do the same thing and don't let the screws loosen from vibration.
This actually sounds like a great idea thanks for posting this. It seems to be the path of least resistance as you don't have to worry about which color to get or keeping the threads and hole clean.

I have a set of union SL's on the way and I think I just found my new method of securing my screws.
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post #10 of 21 (permalink) Old 02-14-2013, 02:49 PM
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Just remember that lock-tite if it comes into contact with plastic eats it like ACID! Do not let Blue Lock-Tite touch any if your plastic parts or its lights out for em. I don't use Lock-Tite at all, I use the older method of, "check your hardware the night before you ride with a tool". My opinion is that if you use lock-Tite let it dry before using the screws. As long as it allows the threads to not vibrate loose by sealing them its doing the job. Too much used and it turns your board inserts into a crusty goopy mess that will require you to clean em out. Letting the lock-Tite dry before installing avoids this problem. But don't let it touch your plastic and fiber glass parts of your bindings or they will crack, most binding manufactures warn against using lock-Tite btw.
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