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NS PROTO (another thread, sorry, sorry) 0.5 degree bevel, tuning detuning

3K views 29 replies 7 participants last post by  kaborkian 
#1 ·
Setting up my proto and preparing to start tuning my own boards. I have always waxed them myself but just neglected the edges all season really. :huh:

So I hear there is now a 0.5 bevel on the NS proto hd's released recently, when I go to sharpen the edges/tune the board, what do I set the file guide to?? My mates two tools either do 88, 89, 90 or I think the other does 85-90. Don't think either goes in halves. Is 0.5 an 89.5 degree?

Sorry, as in my name I am a complete noob with tuning.

Oh and worth detuning up to the contact points (after the rocker). Only ever ridden straight out the packet before.

Please save me from doing anything horrible to my beautiful new board. Thanks guys!!:D
 
#4 ·
Dude. Do not even touch the edges! I used to detune my full cambered board so that it wasn't so catchy but with the profile on the proto it isn't catchy at all and butters nicely. I would only detune a park board or street jib board for hitting rails or if you are hitting insane jumps with crazy spins. But detuning the proto will take away some of what makes is so nice.

I rarely sharpen my edges. Dependes how bad I beat them up.
 
#6 ·
Dude.

I rarely sharpen my edges. Dependes how bad I beat them up.
How many days/weeks between? That's good... I like to avoid messing about too much and more concentrating on riding!

Are you prone to catching edges?
If your talking about tuning the edge on the rest of the board, NS has historically used 90 on all boards. I have had edge grinds done on a couple of different ns boards, from 90 to 89, because that's what the shops machine was set at. Really didn't notice any difference. Theoretically it should make the board less prone to edge catches going with lower angles. My understanding is that it doesn't take much to make or break how a board carves. If you want to change it, I wouldn't go more than 1 degree at a time.

Also, ride it like it is first. You will likely find it's just peachy as is.

Btw, most shops can do an edge grind in about a minute, charge $10, and it will probably be more accurate than a hand held tool. I'd rather spend the $10 than spend the 2 hours hand grinding...
Catch the odd edge but not a major problem... When I'm tired or lazy usually.

So the NS boards classically had a 90degree edge, what does it mean now that the proto has a 0.5degree bevel? What does that equate to?

I wasn't planning on changing the edge/base bevel at all. I just want to be able to sharpen the edges/de-bur them without messing with them. I'd just be using a little file guide tool every week or so.

How do I sharpen the 0.5degree bevel without changing it is basically what I'm asking?

Thanks'
 
#5 ·
Are you prone to catching edges? Detuning from contact point to the tip and tail respectively will help, and you won't lost anything significant in the process. Don't need anything special, just a file to take all edge off from that point outward.

If your talking about tuning the edge on the rest of the board, NS has historically used 90 on all boards. I have had edge grinds done on a couple of different ns boards, from 90 to 89, because that's what the shops machine was set at. Really didn't notice any difference. Theoretically it should make the board less prone to edge catches going with lower angles. My understanding is that it doesn't take much to make or break how a board carves. If you want to change it, I wouldn't go more than 1 degree at a time.

Also, ride it like it is first. You will likely find it's just peachy as is.

Btw, most shops can do an edge grind in about a minute, charge $10, and it will probably be more accurate than a hand held tool. I'd rather spend the $10 than spend the 2 hours hand grinding...
 
#7 ·
How many metal rails do you hit? Rock ran over while in an edge?

If you are not scaring the edges then once a year is fine. The metal edges are stronge and snow and some ice will not dull them easily.

My HD while striaght lining runs straight and true and holds an edge like a champ.

Don't bother with the edges at all!!!!
 
#9 · (Edited)
Just for clarification: The edge angle on the Carbonium boards is still 90 degrees - the bevel has just gone from 0/0 to 0.5/0.5 (or 89.5/0.5 depending on nomenclature).

Implication for sharpening is that you have to use a 89.5 (0.5) degree edge bevel relative to the base for the side edge in order to maintain the 90 edge angle. If you use a 90 (0) degree side bevel, your edge angle with will become 90.5 degrees. With a 89 (1) degree side bevel, it is 89.5 degree.
 
#10 ·
Just for clarification: The edge angle on the Carbonium boards is still 90 degrees - the bevel has just gone from 0/0 to 0.5/0.5 (or 89.5/0.5 depending on nomenclature).

Implication for sharpening is that you have to use a 89.5 (0.5) degree edge bevel relative to the base for the side edge in order to maintain the 90 edge angle. If you use a 90 (0) degree side bevel, your edge angle with will become 89.5 degrees. With a 89 (1) degree side bevel, it is 90.5 degree.
Again, I would argue that it's about impossible to manually get to 0.5 deg accuracy by hand...
 
#12 ·
OP. Don't get side tracked. Don't touch the edges all season unless you damage them.

I hit 1's and 3's smoothly without any catchiness. Butter rotations and pops till my legs give out with a smooth uncatchy feel. Hit rails, boxes and other features without a problem on my HD. The only thing you will get out of touching your edges is less of a board. Don't do that bro.
 
#16 ·
Even with ice it's not like such a practice negates the whole edge. I'm just talking a sanding block smoothing it up.

I'll defer to not what Lgorge said though, my ice riding is probably far below my east coast brethren.
 
#24 ·
depends on a number of things. yes once a season could work if your not riding every second day but a lot of it depends on how hard you ride, where you ride and how often. its all preference too really - like me, i dont sharpen my edges all that often because i like the feel of a forgiving board. my jib board i detune right from the get go and only really sharpen the base edge when i give it an occasional base grind whereas on my all mountain board i like to give it maybe 4 or 5 runs in the contact points with a gummy stone and maybe 2 to 3 the full edge length after a sharpening.

a lot of people would say a good way to test is the fingernail test, in which you rub your fingernails along different sections of the edge. if your scraping off fine little bits of your fingernail then your edges are sharp and good to go. working in a rental and service shop on the hill is a bit of an advantage for me as i can take my board out for a few runs and if i notice my edges arent biting as much as i'd like i can just take it right in and fix it up in a matter of minutes. i tend to wax at least once a week (more so due to boredom) and base grind/edge tune maybe once every month and a half (depending on how much damage ive done) or if i see a long cold, icey weather pattern moving in.
 
#29 ·
It really varies between boards as well. The contact points really dig in from the cambered tip/tail profile compared to my banana and I actually like it better after my edges break in. But I will never detune them. I also don't really edge hard on ice, I follow my line till I pass the ice patch.
 
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