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post #91 of 436 (permalink) Old 02-29-2008, 03:14 PM
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The pads I use are green in colour. I just use a generic brand scrub pad (flat green pad, usually comes in a pack). You can get them at Safeway or pretty much anywhere else. When you use them, you will find the pad builds up with wax that scraping couldn't remove. You can wash the pads or just throw them away after a few uses. I have used a much courser black stripping pad but I only used it for structuring the base for warm snow (as opposed to using a brush) BUT it can be damn tricky. If you do use it, always make sure to go from tip to tail and do NOT press hard. Try to keep your passes down to a minimum, you do not need to do much. All you are trying to achieve is breaking the static or suction effect of wet snow on a mirror smooth base.

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post #92 of 436 (permalink) Old 03-02-2008, 08:23 PM
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should you use ptex on any gash that you have on your base? or do you only use ptex for really deep gashes?
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post #93 of 436 (permalink) Old 03-04-2008, 09:19 PM
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How often should I deburr my edges?

And how often should I get them tuned/sharpened?

thanks
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post #94 of 436 (permalink) Old 03-05-2008, 03:46 AM
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I believe sharpening your edges varies on what you ride and personal preference - If you do more park and rails, then basically never, opposed to all mountain...then figure you'd at least have to do it sometimes.

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post #95 of 436 (permalink) Old 03-05-2008, 01:18 PM
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Another thing I do is after I clean the base, if needed, usually wit hSwix base cleaner or paint thinner I block sand it with 150-220 grit paper. This does a few things, ruffs up the base enough to let the wax really bond to the base, it helps get any rubbed in dirt out, smooths out any rail scuffs, and removes any old wax.
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post #96 of 436 (permalink) Old 03-05-2008, 03:50 PM
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Another thing I do is after I clean the base, if needed, usually wit hSwix base cleaner or paint thinner I block sand it with 150-220 grit paper. This does a few things, ruffs up the base enough to let the wax really bond to the base, it helps get any rubbed in dirt out, smooths out any rail scuffs, and removes any old wax.



and you find this works well? I have always thought about doing this but was always a little nervous.
post #97 of 436 (permalink) Old 03-05-2008, 05:46 PM
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I've been doing it that way for 15 years on many different boards and I've never had a problem and everyone loves my wax jobs.
If you think about what board goes thru you can't really damage it trying different tuning methods, so don't be afraid to try something out. Granted if you used a powered sander and didn't pay attention you could screw it up, so don't use power tools.
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post #98 of 436 (permalink) Old 03-06-2008, 04:33 AM
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"...everyone loves my wax jobs."
lol........
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post #99 of 436 (permalink) Old 03-06-2008, 10:01 AM
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So I tried something new last night, and it turned out to be a neat little trick. Makes scrapping wax 10x easier, and probably helps clean your board some too.

After you iron your wax into your board, let it sit the normal time you would before you start to scrap (20-30min, whatever you do). Then right before you scrap, run your iron over the whole board one more time to heat the wax back up. The first iron/cooling session should have allowed the base to soak up all the wax it was going to, and scrapping warm waxing is 100x easier than hard cool wax. Plus i've heard warm scrapping helps clean the base, but I don't know about that
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post #100 of 436 (permalink) Old 03-07-2008, 01:34 PM
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Anyone have any input on scottland? I'm not too sure about it, since I'm assuming it would have already absorbed into the base...but I want further input :P

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