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post #111 of 435 (permalink) Old 04-30-2008, 05:02 AM
NzGnu
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in the off-season, ensure the edges are dry and then rub a small layer of vaseline over them. This helps prevent rust.

A tech told me in a course we did that you should wax a brand new board 3 times before use. This may be overkill though from what everyone else is saying?

i thought the suction through from having your bindings in was a definate no-no? which is why ya should atleast loosen before waxing?
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post #112 of 435 (permalink) Old 06-14-2008, 12:22 PM
Simply^Ride
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Damn Snow, you are Snowboarding encyclopedia. Ever thought of writing a book?
post #113 of 435 (permalink) Old 06-19-2008, 07:56 PM
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Snowolf,

Your other videos were great, you should put one together on edge maintenace.
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post #114 of 435 (permalink) Old 07-17-2008, 12:02 PM
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I just bought my first board, it should be coming in the mail within the week. I saw earlier in this thread that you should put some wax on your board for the summer, and I was wondering if I should put a coat of wax onto it when it gets here or if the factory coat's good enough for the rest of the summer and if it'd be the same to just wait and wax it till closer to when I'm taking it out.
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post #115 of 435 (permalink) Old 07-31-2008, 06:23 AM
pyrielmarquis
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bleh i have been drooling since may and ill be drooling till dec........but in all seriousness for a new board, do the wax job multiple times, or just once?
post #116 of 435 (permalink) Old 07-31-2008, 09:04 AM
Simply^Ride
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From what I know, new boards come pre-waxed already. So you should be fine for a couple of days. It also depends on what conditions you are riding and the temp of the snow.

My Rome Agent came pre-waxed, but the first time out was in mount hood during May, the snow was very rough and sticky and it ate through the wax in the first couple hours. For the next the Snowolf had to put some black summer wax which lasted much longer and gave the board a better feeling.
post #117 of 435 (permalink) Old 07-31-2008, 10:35 AM
pyrielmarquis
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well the first time i take the board out will be at gatlinburg tn. ............(i just had a moment of clarity) yea i am gonna have to put a new coat on it, cause that is all mainly man made out there. after that though, its gonna hopefully be at least 2days at sierra-at-tahoe and two days at kirkwood, down near lake tahoe. then it shuold be about 5 days at mt shasta maybe 2 at ashland then bachelor and hell i should go up to hood also. depends on when my vacation will start. cause i should have about 30+ days off total, hmmm 2days of flying.....4-5 days of driving hmmm god my wife is gonna hate me hahaha if i pushed hard i could get 23-24 days in there of slope time
post #118 of 435 (permalink) Old 09-11-2008, 03:50 PM
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if i bought a board last season rode it ect.. never sharpened it yet.(didn't feel like i needed to) if i do get it sharpened and dont state what way i want it sharpened whats the default?
because even reading about the bevel an all.. i am lost on what the hells going on lol
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post #119 of 435 (permalink) Old 09-12-2008, 02:09 PM
oneplankawanka
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I do not recommend using ANY solvents on your boards base and I know that many experienced techs,including me never do. It can seriously damage the base by drying it out and decreasing it ability to absorb wax... if you do use solvents go for the enviromentally friendly citrus type and use it sparingly!! NEVER USE KEROSENE!! NOT GOOD and no snoboard manufacturer would suggest you do so!!! the best method to remove dirt, old wax and any impurities is to hot scrape with an all temp fluorocarbon wax several times...time consuming yes but the best way to treat your base and keep its pores clean if you have a cheapy extruded base (no offense)this is not as critical; As it has been mentioned earlier, a high molecular weight base is a high end wax absorbing base material it is worth treating with kid gloves take care of it by not using any harsh solvents or very litte if you do. NEVER KEROSENE,DIESEL FUEL my knuckledraggin brethren and sistren. The biggest mistake I see noobs make is applying way too much wax as most it will be scraped off anyway use wax sparingly but always enough to never ever put a hot iron on a dry board...if youriron smokes it too hot..most commercially available irons designed for waxing skis and snowboard have built in thermostats,but if you are using your mums old iron be very careful of using only the medium setting and if the wax smokes, turn it down until it smokes no more..be patient more on edge tuning later... also case hardened areas on your boards edge (burrs) DO NOT GRIP THE SNOW BETTER... they actually sslow you down and make for a much lesst smooth ride!!nothing has benn mentioned about the diff between hydrocarbon waxes and flurocarbon waxes and how they relate to temperature, humidity snow quality..etc etc. also grahpite waxes... I will post soon regarding these differences asap... proper waxing based upon conditions is not hard or complicated but I definately consider it an art form.... but no worries blokes and sheila's its still easy peasy and evem u noobs can get the gist of it no worries. I will post.."breaking the code, How to chose a winning wax by Dr. Thanos Karydas....its da bomb shred the gnar all!!

Last edited by oneplankawanka; 09-12-2008 at 02:19 PM. Reason: additional info
post #120 of 435 (permalink) Old 09-12-2008, 02:28 PM
oneplankawanka
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most maufacturers have a standard out of the factory base bevel for the base and side edge; and thats a one degree bevel on both edges ..base/side depending on how you ride, the type of conditions encountered these parameters of base beveeling can be changed to increase performance. A good example would be beveling you base edges 2 or 3 degrees to decrease edge catch when grinding rails and boxes...lots of jib board come beveled this way from the factory including boards from Atomic and Burton..to name but just a few.. I have more info regarding base bevel just be more specific and I will try to answer you querys. or pont you to someone who can..cheers mates!!
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