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post #141 of 412 (permalink) Old 12-08-2008, 04:06 PM
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Actually just running the iron over 1 or 2 times will only warm up the excess wax. Not enough heat will be applied to open up the p-tex.

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post #142 of 412 (permalink) Old 12-08-2008, 09:54 PM
Tolem
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I read that its a good idea to take some colder temp wax (I usually put all-temp on my board) and rub it / drip it along the edges before you iron the board to help protect them more from harsher snow.

Since I will be riding a lot of man made snow and its pretty cold around here, would that be a good idea to prevent edge burn?
post #143 of 412 (permalink) Old 12-09-2008, 01:39 PM
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man made snow has sharp edges and will burn the base. I would suggest using a combination of of diff temp waxes on your base. If you are using graphite, rub it on fists, never drip on graphite!! rub on, then iron in.

I use a combo of grahpite,all temp, and cold...sometimes if it is wet, I use fluorocarbon all temp overlays for wet Pac NW conditions. If you need more info let me know.
post #144 of 412 (permalink) Old 12-17-2008, 10:29 PM
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if i have a new board and ride about half normal runs and half freestyle, would I need to do anyhting else to my board besides hot wax. Would i have to do anything with the edges. I have heardof edges coming really sharp but they seam pretty smooth. Any help is apprecieated.
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post #145 of 412 (permalink) Old 12-18-2008, 07:09 AM
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Not really, unless you know what you're doing... in which case you wouldn't be asking anyways.

If you want, you can take a ceramic stone or any other fine grit polishing stone and detune the contact points.

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post #146 of 412 (permalink) Old 12-18-2008, 04:48 PM
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Yea I really don't know what I am doing. I am just going to leave the edges as thee are. If for some reason that would affect my riding negatively can someon please put in some input..thanks
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post #147 of 412 (permalink) Old 12-22-2008, 11:39 AM
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Just depends how/what you're riding. YOu can tune the edges to catch less likely on rails, etc, but reduces turning ease/grip. You can optimize them for carving or ice. YOu can go middle of the road. Sharpening is almost a no brainer with a tool made for it, Sharpie marker, and a diamond stone to polish and de-bur. Probably want to detune tip and tail at a minimum.
post #148 of 412 (permalink) Old 12-29-2008, 05:48 PM
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Can I use the flat side of a computer RAM stick as a scraper? I ordered a tuning kit from tramdock, and it came without the scraper, so I'm salvaging whatever I can.
post #149 of 412 (permalink) Old 12-31-2008, 01:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dalau View Post
Can I use the flat side of a computer RAM stick as a scraper? I ordered a tuning kit from tramdock, and it came without the scraper, so I'm salvaging whatever I can.
Usually you need a fair amount of force for scraping, so I think your old ram stick'd
break. I've had good luck with a plastic car windshield scraper though.
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post #150 of 412 (permalink) Old 12-31-2008, 04:45 PM
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Originally Posted by alf View Post
Usually you need a fair amount of force for scraping, so I think your old ram stick'd
break. I've had good luck with a plastic car windshield scraper though.
heh. I tried it the other night, and was scraping for about 30 mins. One ram stick got dull, and I had to go to another.... and I also couldn't apply a lot of force, because the stick is so thin (both in terms of the thickness and the width) that it hurts the fingers in a way similar to when you learn how to play the guitar. I've got a real scraper coming in the mail tho, so this should be the last of my ram scrapers. =)


edit: I also put on too much wax, so that's another reason it took so long to scrape.
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