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post #161 of 436 (permalink) Old 01-12-2009, 10:01 PM
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trick i use its just take your plastic scraper and scrape em off ride your board they will go away. simple green works but you must use caution your base is a porous element putting anything on it it soaks it up. for general waxings i just use my wire brush and give it a good brushing other if you require a deep cleaning try hot waxing its and scraping immediately otherwise known as a wax clean.
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post #162 of 436 (permalink) Old 01-13-2009, 12:59 PM
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If u are using simple green use it sparingly... as you would any solvent. You must however give it sufficient time to evaporate before you apply any heat or wax. LET IT EVAPORATE FIRST. FYI I have never heard the term "wax clean" as a tech for several years we called it a "hot scrape" its great way to clean the base w/o solvent but it is labor intensive.

When we hot scrape, we are removing excess wax (pulling it out of the base) becaues the pores are still opened and more wax will come off that had been previously impregnated into it.. got it?
post #163 of 436 (permalink) Old 01-13-2009, 07:58 PM
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yeah you got what i was saying the people who i have explained this too have often misunderstood hot scrape and the purpose of it leading to burned bases. but you got what i was saying with the other terminology
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post #164 of 436 (permalink) Old 01-14-2009, 06:22 PM
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Whats the general guideline on how many riding days between waxes?
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post #165 of 436 (permalink) Old 01-14-2009, 06:28 PM
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3-5 days, depending on conditions and amount of riding

THERE ARE SPECIFIC REASONS AS TO WHY I AM MORE LOCAL THAN YOU


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post #166 of 436 (permalink) Old 01-15-2009, 10:20 PM
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thanks for the tips on the dried out base. I've got another question, and I feel it's better put here than making a new thread.

Should a nice hot waxed, scraped, brushed base result in a:
1) very thin layer of wax covering the texture of the base, so wax is the only material physically contacting the snow?
OR
2) wax woven (figuratively) into the base, so both wax and the base material are in contact with the snow?

This would be much help for me to determine how much to scrape after a hot wax. Thanks!
post #167 of 436 (permalink) Old 01-15-2009, 10:22 PM
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Number 2 is the optimal choice.

Basically, scrape until nothing is coming off anymore.

THERE ARE SPECIFIC REASONS AS TO WHY I AM MORE LOCAL THAN YOU


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post #168 of 436 (permalink) Old 01-19-2009, 09:56 AM
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yep we are concerned with the wax we have impregnated into the base, not any surface wax. I brush, and then scotch brite to remove any fine hairs and this will polish the base... smoothe as a babies bum/// and fast as hell.
post #169 of 436 (permalink) Old 01-21-2009, 12:56 PM
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Well I have attempted to wax my board twice now and both times I dont seem to get the same results as the shop. Each time I seem to be getting better but there are a couple questions I have.

After I wax and scrape following all the directions I have read on this board and others I find that sometimes some of the scratches are still on the board. These are not large by any means maybe 0.5" to 1" long and just a millimeter or two deep. The wax does seem to fill them in but I can clearly see them and feel them when I run my fingers over the base.

Do these scratches need to be ground down (for lack of a better word) to be level with the base before I wax? Should the scraping level it off if done correctly?

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

-Conor
post #170 of 436 (permalink) Old 01-21-2009, 11:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Snowolf View Post


Glad you backed them off...that is definitiely not a good thing. The sucking in part is very noraml and why when a shop does a base grind and wax, the bindings are removed (well, that and the board won`t go through the machine with them on... ) for everyday wax jobs, I do not bother with loosening the bindings. Thanks for the kind words.


I will work on the edge maintenance as soon as I get some free time.
everytime i wax my board i loosen the bindings. I dont take them off though...
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