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Old 01-21-2009, 11:12 PM   #171 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Nostromos View Post
Well I have attempted to wax my board twice now and both times I dont seem to get the same results as the shop. Each time I seem to be getting better but there are a couple questions I have.

After I wax and scrape following all the directions I have read on this board and others I find that sometimes some of the scratches are still on the board. These are not large by any means maybe 0.5" to 1" long and just a millimeter or two deep. The wax does seem to fill them in but I can clearly see them and feel them when I run my fingers over the base.

Do these scratches need to be ground down (for lack of a better word) to be level with the base before I wax? Should the scraping level it off if done correctly?

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

-Conor
waxing is not meant to fill in scratches. anything that small should not present an issue if it really bothers you just fill it in with a Ptex candle although i wouldnt really worry about it till you get a core shot.
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Old 01-22-2009, 06:25 AM   #172 (permalink)
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exuse me im about to buy a burton jacket, would you give any advise on what size i am 150 punds and 6 feet
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Old 01-22-2009, 02:13 PM   #173 (permalink)
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chest size?

wrong thread?
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Old 01-22-2009, 02:22 PM   #174 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Dawg Catcher View Post
waxing is not meant to fill in scratches. anything that small should not present an issue if it really bothers you just fill it in with a Ptex candle although i wouldnt really worry about it till you get a core shot.
That's pretty much what I figured. I bought my first good board, a Custom X, and have been taking really good care of it. This last time out it took on a couple scrapes and is not as pristine as it once was. I suppose I was worried about decreased performance now that the base isn't pristine anymore.
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Old 02-03-2009, 01:53 AM   #175 (permalink)
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it depends how deep your scratches are. if its not too deep just wax and they will fill in if they are deep ptex em. if it really bothers you alot get a stone grind.
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Old 02-03-2009, 11:15 AM   #176 (permalink)
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On my topsheet right next to my bindings im getting a little discoloration.... i do not have any rust in the bindings or screws... has anyone else had this problem? or anyone know a way to remove it?
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Old 02-13-2009, 05:15 AM   #177 (permalink)
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My Waxing Method:

Clean your iron. I don't care how.

Turn your iron on. If it wisps, don't worry.

Prepare the board. Scrub the base with a nylon brush (this will remove surface shit). Use a base cleaner if you want/need to. Brass/copper/other soft metal brush optional.

Do the edges. Deburr.

Wipe the iron with a paper towel. Be careful not to burn yourself (I recommend you fold the paper towel over a few times). This will remove any remaining crap/residue/anything.

Apply wax to the board. Drip it. Crayon it. It doesn't matter.

Iron that shit in. Give the edges and contact points the most love. Periodically feel the topsheet. If it's cool, keep ironing. If it's hot, leave that area alone.

Let it cool.

If you want to, you can clean the iron and repeat the iron-in process. Make sure that base has soaked up all it can. Why scrape and apply a "second coat"? That makes no sense. It just wastes wax.

Let it cool.

Now, scrape. You don't need to scrapescrapescrapescrapescrapescrape. Give your board a moderate scrape. Basically scrape it until it looks a factory wax from a glance. Takes me maybe 2 minutes tops.

Take a nylon brush (I use a Swix dual brush - it has short, stiff nylon bristles on one side and felt on the other - $15) and start scrubbing your base. Left, right, up, down, in circles, who gives a fuck. HOLY FUCKING DUST!

Get a spray bottle, fill it with water, and spray your base. Or just use a wet towel. Or anything. Continue scrubbing with the brush. Where's the dust? Look at those big dust-filled water droplets.

Scrub. Grease your elbows. You'll know when you can stop.

Take a scrubby pad to your base if you want to.

Dry everything off and store your board in a warm, dry area.
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Old 02-14-2009, 01:54 PM   #178 (permalink)
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Question: What do the black spots mean?

Details: I just hot-waxed my board for the first time yesterday. It's a brand new board. I first brushed off the factory wax layer, then dripped wax and ironed. I ironed until the outlines of the dots of wax disappeared, meaning that the bottom layer (closest to base) of wax had melted. These dots appeared before the scraping stage.... sometime during the ironing. I tried to see if I could get rid of them by adding a bit more wax over those areas and re-ironing. The spots didn't go away during the scraping or brushing stages. I used Whacks Wax, which has a black color.

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Old 02-14-2009, 09:50 PM   #179 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dalau View Post
Question: What do the black spots mean?

Details: I just hot-waxed my board for the first time yesterday. It's a brand new board. I first brushed off the factory wax layer, then dripped wax and ironed. I ironed until the outlines of the dots of wax disappeared, meaning that the bottom layer (closest to base) of wax had melted. These dots appeared before the scraping stage.... sometime during the ironing. I tried to see if I could get rid of them by adding a bit more wax over those areas and re-ironing. The spots didn't go away during the scraping or brushing stages. I used Whacks Wax, which has a black color.

This is what I read from the post by boarderaholic on page one of this topic:

There are many different types of waxes out there, but the most common is flouro based waxes. They are fairly long lasting, and can take a rough rider. The other type as Snowolf mentioned is graphite. Graphite comes in one colour; black. It will be noticeable on a white base and people will think you need a wax job. .That is until you flash by 'em laughing your ass off. Graphite wax is harder and creates better glide with the snow than flouro wax does. Thus it is a faster wax. It doesn't have the same staying power, but it will make you ride faster.

and I think whacks wax is saturated with Molybdenum powder which I think is similar to graphite so the black spots may be normal and will go away with time. I'm not sure since I've never used whacks wax before but it does make sense.
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Old 02-15-2009, 02:57 PM   #180 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oneplankawanka View Post
man made snow has sharp edges and will burn the base. I would suggest using a combination of of diff temp waxes on your base. If you are using graphite, rub it on fists, never drip on graphite!! rub on, then iron in.
Why can't you drip on graphite? Is Molybdenum enriched wax the similar in property as graphite wax?
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