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post #241 of 422 (permalink) Old 02-28-2010, 04:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Snowolf View Post
The hand held file guide is good for sharpening your edges, use it to file only the side edge; do not try to use it on the base edge. For filing the base edge, you need to get a decent file guide that is set at the angle you want (1 degree is standard for most riding, but they make them up with higher angles. The idea of using the Sharpie pen is sound....it gives you something to visually monitor your progress and helps prevent removing too much metal. Base edges need to be as uniform as possible, so be careful and take your time. Also, you want to maintain a 89 or 90 degree angle on your edges so if you have a 1 or 2 degree base edge bevel, be sure to match that on your side edge. An ideal free ride set up is a 1 degree base edge and a 2 degree side edge; this makes a very sharp, 89 degree edge that holds it`s edge well on ice.

You can ruin a board very easily by messing up the steel edges, so do not go cheap on this equipment, get good stuff and learn to use it properly.

A diamond stone or any knife sharpening stone is great to lightly hone down the filed edge; use a light touch and just go over it a few passes to remove file burrs. The hand held file guide is ideal to take in the car to run a few passes down your edge to get a good sharp edge again. I run one down my edges every couple of weeks to maintain a sharp edge.
So I should not use this for the base edge then? One side is 90* the other is 88*, one question does anyone know if I want to use the 90* side should it be face up or down? And I know it has been gone over but I don't want to ruin my edge, I should use 90* side right? I ride either Mt. High or Snow Summit and it seems to be pretty icy or at least real hard packed most times.

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post #242 of 422 (permalink) Old 02-28-2010, 08:51 PM
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^i saw that in the Dakine kit at REI today. i didn't realize it was 90deg AND 88deg. i thought it was only 90. if i had known i prob would have got the kit instead of just the scraper.



So i did my first wax job today on my Sierra Crew. It went well (scraped wax w a plastic Dakine scraper for a good hour) and i think she's all good. Except i did notice that there is a noticeable bump/edge/feel where the colors change on the bottom of the board. I assume they're separate pieces of plastic. Is this normal?
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post #243 of 422 (permalink) Old 02-28-2010, 09:49 PM
Notoriousmlg
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hey i just got my sierra crew today, do i need to wax it or file any edges before i take it out or is it good to go>
post #244 of 422 (permalink) Old 03-02-2010, 11:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Notoriousmlg View Post
hey i just got my sierra crew today, do i need to wax it or file any edges before i take it out or is it good to go>
I would do a good hot wax on it and it should be good to go.
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post #245 of 422 (permalink) Old 03-04-2010, 07:34 PM
Sheeky
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Originally Posted by killclimbz View Post
It's my rock board. No way in hell with multiple blow edges and stuff that I even want to spend the time fixing it. When there is less than 10" of snow on the ground, that's the stick I ride...
10 inches is a blessing where im from.

post #246 of 422 (permalink) Old 03-04-2010, 10:50 PM
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Question

I'm going to wax and tune my board this weekend. I got an iron, wax, gummy stone, 88/90 bevel guide, and a plastic scrapper. I just want to sharpen the edge for now and not change the angle, how do I know what bevel came with the board from the factory? Looks like 0 and 90 to me, btw the board is a GNU CHB series. Also on the side edge, the sidewall goes all the way up to the metal edge. When I file the edge, I'm going to rub up against the sidewall too, is that normal or do I need a sidewall cutter too?
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post #247 of 422 (permalink) Old 03-09-2010, 10:36 AM
stas
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I do not want to promote but it is a nice youtube movie about waxing the board that I find very helpfull
Maybe for someone els it will be also helpfull


video how to wax (youtube)

Last edited by stas; 03-09-2010 at 10:39 AM.
post #248 of 422 (permalink) Old 03-15-2010, 10:04 AM
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Question

Can anyone suggest a good hot wax? Or are they all pretty much the same? I see all the waxes that say rub on, spray on, paste, gel, etc. Do I need to make sure it says "hot wax?" or are they all hot wax?

Also, do I need to get a snowboard waxing iron, or would a regular iron work (assuming I clean it before and after waxing). And I heard you can put aluminum foil over it so you don't really have to clean it and you won't ruin a good iron. Has anyone tried this?

And I just got a new deck and I'm not sure if I'll get a chance to use it this season. Should I wax it before the summer of will the manufacturers wax be good enough?

Last edited by Denzo 2000; 03-15-2010 at 10:28 AM.
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post #249 of 422 (permalink) Old 03-15-2010, 10:23 AM
stas
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Sorry I cant help about wax!
But pay attention when you use the iron with wax, the base of iron should be flat without any holes in it. Otherwise the wax will get into this holes when you warm up your wax.
Hope this info will help!
Oh and yes you can use different types of irons but the best ones where you can adjust the temp preciously.
And don't ruin your mothers iron, cheap ones will do fine for waxing!
post #250 of 422 (permalink) Old 03-30-2010, 11:21 AM
a_ratcliffe
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first waxing went well..... scraped and put a second layer on. Now, just scraping and scraping and scraping and scraping...... If the snow takes the wax off fairly quickly, why do I have to scrape so much of it back off?
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