gen. maintenance tips - Page 27 - Snowboarding Forum

legallyillegal · 09-10-2010, 02:59 PM

there are no pores (in the sense that you think), and it does not matter which direction you scrape and brush

vote4pedro · 09-10-2010, 03:18 PM

there's a good waxing guide with videos a few links down from this thread.

http://www.snowboardingforum.com/boa...rd-repair.html

according to it and other guides i've read, the reason you scrape and brush nose to tail is to create grooves for the water to flow.

legallyillegal · 09-10-2010, 03:44 PM

grooves in what? the wax you just scraped off?

vote4pedro · 09-10-2010, 03:54 PM

there's still some wax there. or else why did you bother putting it on?

according to the guide, it creates microscopic grooves for better water flow and a little more speed.

legallyillegal · 09-10-2010, 06:08 PM

wax goes in the base, not on

anything left over is just rudimentary abrasion resistance

vote4pedro · 09-10-2010, 06:24 PM

it goes in and on. it's pretty obvious to the touch when your board needs to be waxed.

and for what it's worth, wax isn't used for "abrasion resistance," it's actually there to increase friction to melt the snow faster. you're essentially hydroplaning on a thin layer of water between your board and the snow. the grooves allow the water to flow freely, reducing drag.

anyway, i don't claim to be an expert. i'm just repeating what every guide out there says. who knows. maybe they're all wrong and you're right.

legallyillegal · 09-10-2010, 06:30 PM

i bet all those "guides" claim that your base will oxidize if you don't wax it

vote4pedro · 09-10-2010, 06:39 PM

that's a new one to me. i'm mainly going off the guide posted here.

http://www.snowboardingforum.com/boa...rd-repair.html

here's the relevant section...

Next is scraping the excess wax off the board. As the wax is soaked into the base, everything that can be scraped off is excess. You can buy a scraper at a shop for cheap (go generic with scrapers to save $) or you can buy a small piece of square fiberglass from the hardware store. Make sure it's as wide as your board to ensure proper scraping. Start at one end of the board (tip or tail) and drag the scraper down the board, removing the excess wax. NEVER go horizontally as you'll damage the boards base potentially and it's structure. Proceed until all the excess wax has been removed. BE THUROUGH! Excess wax just results in additional friction, and as it is poorly shaped (unlike a smooth base) it will resist water flowing over it. Wax once again... isn't slick...

So once you've thuroughly removed all excess wax, you'll want to buff your board. Scotch Brite pads actually work the best. Get em, rub the piss out of your boad, and it'll come out smooth. Once again, tip to tail travels on those brushing. Once that is done, and the board is smooth, you'll want to STRUCTURE the base. You do this with a fine bristled brush. You drag from tip to tail harshly. This leaves grooves in the base. These grooves allow water to travel faster accross the base, and in retrospect result in you traveling faster. It also helps reduce the suction cup effect of two smooth surfaces with water inbetween them. A brush can be bought at your snowboard shop for $12-15, or a brush can be bought at a hardware store for $4. The choice is yours...

LTshredTN · 09-20-2010, 01:24 PM

also some help with edges, i wna tune up them from last year, there alittle rusty, how do i go about sharping them and gettin the rusty spots off? i know theres diamond & gummy stones used for some stuff

legallyillegal · 10-04-2010, 08:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vote4pedro

that's a new one to me. i'm mainly going off the guide posted here.

if your scraper is damaging your base by going horizontal or diagonal, you can be damn sure that it'll also damage your base if you go longitudinal

and if you're attempting to put a structure in a base using a brush...

bad things will happen

what the brush does is remove the wax from a pre-existing structure

09-10-2010, 02:59 PM	#261 (permalink)
legallyillegal -LIFETIME MEMBER- Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: fuck Snowboarding Posts: 4,446	there are no pores (in the sense that you think), and it does not matter which direction you scrape and brush __________________ THERE ARE SPECIFIC REASONS AS TO WHY I AM MORE LOCAL THAN YOU GOD IS DONUT

09-10-2010, 03:44 PM	#263 (permalink)
legallyillegal -LIFETIME MEMBER- Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: fuck Snowboarding Posts: 4,446	grooves in what? the wax you just scraped off? __________________ THERE ARE SPECIFIC REASONS AS TO WHY I AM MORE LOCAL THAN YOU GOD IS DONUT

09-10-2010, 06:08 PM	#265 (permalink)
legallyillegal -LIFETIME MEMBER- Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: fuck Snowboarding Posts: 4,446	wax goes in the base, not on anything left over is just rudimentary abrasion resistance __________________ THERE ARE SPECIFIC REASONS AS TO WHY I AM MORE LOCAL THAN YOU GOD IS DONUT

09-10-2010, 06:24 PM	#266 (permalink)
vote4pedro Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: NM Posts: 264	it goes in and on. it's pretty obvious to the touch when your board needs to be waxed. and for what it's worth, wax isn't used for "abrasion resistance," it's actually there to increase friction to melt the snow faster. you're essentially hydroplaning on a thin layer of water between your board and the snow. the grooves allow the water to flow freely, reducing drag. anyway, i don't claim to be an expert. i'm just repeating what every guide out there says. who knows. maybe they're all wrong and you're right. Last edited by vote4pedro; 09-10-2010 at 06:28 PM.

09-10-2010, 06:30 PM	#267 (permalink)
legallyillegal -LIFETIME MEMBER- Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: fuck Snowboarding Posts: 4,446	i bet all those "guides" claim that your base will oxidize if you don't wax it __________________ THERE ARE SPECIFIC REASONS AS TO WHY I AM MORE LOCAL THAN YOU GOD IS DONUT

09-10-2010, 03:18 PM	#262 (permalink)
vote4pedro Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: NM Posts: 264	there's a good waxing guide with videos a few links down from this thread. http://www.snowboardingforum.com/boa...rd-repair.html according to it and other guides i've read, the reason you scrape and brush nose to tail is to create grooves for the water to flow.

09-10-2010, 03:54 PM	#264 (permalink)
vote4pedro Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: NM Posts: 264	there's still some wax there. or else why did you bother putting it on? according to the guide, it creates microscopic grooves for better water flow and a little more speed.

09-10-2010, 06:39 PM	#268 (permalink)
vote4pedro Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: NM Posts: 264	that's a new one to me. i'm mainly going off the guide posted here. http://www.snowboardingforum.com/boa...rd-repair.html here's the relevant section... Next is scraping the excess wax off the board. As the wax is soaked into the base, everything that can be scraped off is excess. You can buy a scraper at a shop for cheap (go generic with scrapers to save $) or you can buy a small piece of square fiberglass from the hardware store. Make sure it's as wide as your board to ensure proper scraping. Start at one end of the board (tip or tail) and drag the scraper down the board, removing the excess wax. NEVER go horizontally as you'll damage the boards base potentially and it's structure. Proceed until all the excess wax has been removed. BE THUROUGH! Excess wax just results in additional friction, and as it is poorly shaped (unlike a smooth base) it will resist water flowing over it. Wax once again... isn't slick... So once you've thuroughly removed all excess wax, you'll want to buff your board. Scotch Brite pads actually work the best. Get em, rub the piss out of your boad, and it'll come out smooth. Once again, tip to tail travels on those brushing. Once that is done, and the board is smooth, you'll want to STRUCTURE the base. You do this with a fine bristled brush. You drag from tip to tail harshly. This leaves grooves in the base. These grooves allow water to travel faster accross the base, and in retrospect result in you traveling faster. It also helps reduce the suction cup effect of two smooth surfaces with water inbetween them. A brush can be bought at your snowboard shop for $12-15, or a brush can be bought at a hardware store for $4. The choice is yours... Last edited by vote4pedro; 09-10-2010 at 06:50 PM.

09-20-2010, 01:24 PM	#269 (permalink)
LTshredTN Veteran Member Join Date: Apr 2009 Posts: 550	also some help with edges, i wna tune up them from last year, there alittle rusty, how do i go about sharping them and gettin the rusty spots off? i know theres diamond & gummy stones used for some stuff

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