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post #301 of 435 (permalink) Old 02-18-2011, 12:50 AM
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Something I actually picked up from one of Torstein's videos:

Instead of dripping the wax onto the board, rub the wax against the iron to melt it a bit, then rub the wax onto the board. Repeat this until you have an even coat then melt the wax into the base with the iron. I've found that using this method keeps me from using too much wax and saves me some scraping time.
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post #302 of 435 (permalink) Old 02-18-2011, 12:59 AM
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That's basically what I do, the reason I don't bother scraping is I live in Ohio with fake snow that rips the extra off the board for me. I make sure I get it warm enough with the iron for the board to absorb the wax. With just rubbing it on and melting it in there isn't much to scrape anyway.
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post #303 of 435 (permalink) Old 02-20-2011, 09:58 PM
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Couple of ideas to make waxing easier. I have used the rub the wax on method instead of dripping makes scraping easier. If you are not sure of temperature for the wax check website or go to tognar.com they have some temps listed for different waxes, I wouldn't go above 140 degrees C (centigrade not fahrenheit) assuming you have a real wax iron with temps on it. When you scrape over edges you will get nicks from sharp edges on you plexiglass scraper, use sandpaper to smooth out. Nobody has talked about all the wax stuck on your scraper. I use goo gone from home depot to remove wax from scraper with paper towel cleans it right off. Not sure if you could use it on top sheet to clean wax that got on there. Afraid to use any chemicals, citrus or kerosene on either side of board but have used the base cleaners. Read tognar for cleaning, they suggest using a soft wax and scraping while hot, a few times. I have tried this and it does take a lot of junk off your base but its messy and a pain just like scraping is always a pain. Anyway my two cents.
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post #304 of 435 (permalink) Old 02-20-2011, 10:10 PM
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even though I got hot tips also have questions. Just bought a gnu riders choice and waxed it good. Rode ice all day looks like it was never waxed. I was thinking maybe just looks that way, cause its a black sintered base? last board was a white base, maybe sintered not sure but hard to tell. Both bases have lots of fine scratches so look the same that way but black base shows that whitish dull finish more...maybe cause its easier to see on black base. Hope one day of riding on black sintered base means have to wax every time out. Now I have seen that sintered base needs more frequent waxing and that it sucks up wax better. That seems contradictory...doesn't it?
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post #305 of 435 (permalink) Old 03-04-2011, 04:51 AM
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Even though the black sintered base may look 'dry' with the whitish marks which is more obvious than a white base. There are still wax in the pores of your snowboard. I was riding a Salomon board with sintered base which has a black base showing whitish mark even after half a day. However after a few days on the slope before I re-wax it I would leave it in southern CA sun which may get up to the 80's and I can see there are still plenty of wax coming up when I would wipe it down. So I'm not sure if you have that option but leave your board in the sun when it gets to 70 or 80 degrees and you can see all the wax that's still in your board. Hope this helps.
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post #306 of 435 (permalink) Old 03-04-2011, 04:59 AM
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There seems to still be alot of confusion on how much wax to use, what temp the iron should be, and how much to scrape. I learn how to wax a couple of years ago from wolf on here from watching his video and I enjoy it so much that I would wax it after one day on the slope and was doing it for all my friends for FREE. I like to use the melt then rub method more than the dripping because I can manage the amount of wax to use alot better but I do drip a alittle more wax on the edge of any where I think may need it.
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post #307 of 435 (permalink) Old 03-04-2011, 05:01 AM
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What temp to use on your iron:

So long as it's not smoking then you're fine. I use the Dakine iron and I like to start with a little more than 100 then move up from there meaning if I feel it's not melting the wax as nicely then I turn it up a notch and then another notch until I see the wax are melting nicely then that's the temp I would stick with then when I'm done I simply unplug the iron and not touch the temp so next time that's the temp that the iron will stay in when I wax my board again.
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post #308 of 435 (permalink) Old 03-04-2011, 05:08 AM
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How much wax to scrap from the board:

Now this is totally subjective but what I've found if there's plenty of snow like we have now in southern CA or the rest of the country. I don't have to scrap it as much or maybe even leave everything the way it is which will last a very long time, sometimes as long as 6 days on the slope but if I were to be hitting rails or boxes then I would scrape some of them since the thick wax left on the board will not slide as nicely on the boxes and will pick up alot of dirt from the boxes. And when we're closer to March or April when snow is melting I would scrap as much as I can because the wax left on my snowboard would pick up everything from the dirty snow; I have a 03 Burton Dragon with white base and the dirt from last year is still on the base, I simply haven't had time to clean it thoroughly. Other than picking up dirt and making your snowboard base dirty I don't think there's any performance disadvantage of not scrapping your board as much since I pass everyone on the flat part of big bear even when I don't scrap my board.
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post #309 of 435 (permalink) Old 03-11-2011, 07:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skunkworks View Post
How much wax to scrap from the board:

Now this is totally subjective but what I've found if there's plenty of snow like we have now in southern CA or the rest of the country. I don't have to scrap it as much or maybe even leave everything the way it is which will last a very long time, sometimes as long as 6 days on the slope but if I were to be hitting rails or boxes then I would scrape some of them since the thick wax left on the board will not slide as nicely on the boxes and will pick up alot of dirt from the boxes. And when we're closer to March or April when snow is melting I would scrap as much as I can because the wax left on my snowboard would pick up everything from the dirty snow; I have a 03 Burton Dragon with white base and the dirt from last year is still on the base, I simply haven't had time to clean it thoroughly. Other than picking up dirt and making your snowboard base dirty I don't think there's any performance disadvantage of not scrapping your board as much since I pass everyone on the flat part of big bear even when I don't scrap my board.
How much do you weight? What board? I think that weight is much more of a factor than anything else to go faster. I can wax perfectly one of the best base available (Arbor) but when I ride with a friend, heavier than me, he passess me on flat no matter what!
I'll try the non-scrape method....maybe on harder snow.

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post #310 of 435 (permalink) Old 03-14-2011, 06:51 AM
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maybe weight does have something to do with it, I weight a little over 170 but I was able to pass friends weighting over 200. Maybe something to do with board placement because when I started boarding even on flat ground like that part linking top of goldenwest to shirley lake at Squaw I used to edge my board just a bit and found that I was going as fast. Now I put my board absolutely flat and was able to pick up more speed. Try not scrapping as much wax and tell us how that turn out.
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