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Old 10-17-2013, 10:03 AM   #371 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zackmorris View Post
I'd say they are more grooves than cuts. I didn't know if those should be prominent still or not after waxing.
If they are deep grooves, waxing will not fix it.

YOu'll probably have to ptex it.

If it's shallow, and you have tons of them... maybe a stone grind.

it's hard to tell without detailed pictures (I suggest starting another thread if you're going to do it)

THe basics of hot waxing is a lot easier than it looks or sounds.

Yes, I have seen a bad wax job, more like a bad scraping job, where it slowed down a friend's board (sometimes you cannot trust your own family members to do a decent wax job)....

Last edited by tanscrazydaisy; 10-17-2013 at 10:10 AM.
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Old 10-24-2013, 01:22 PM   #372 (permalink)
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I watched snowwolfs video and am wondering what temperature you set the iron to. Looks like the wax melts immediately when he puts the iron down whereas it takes me awhile to get the wax melting unless I move very slowly. If I move any faster, the wax almost never melts and this is at a much higher temperature then what vancouver ski shop told me to use so I was worried.
Should I just turn it up more?
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Old 10-24-2013, 01:31 PM   #373 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by AllMtrH22 View Post
I watched snowwolfs video and am wondering what temperature you set the iron to. Looks like the wax melts immediately when he puts the iron down whereas it takes me awhile to get the wax melting unless I move very slowly. If I move any faster, the wax almost never melts and this is at a much higher temperature then what vancouver ski shop told me to use so I was worried.
Should I just turn it up more?
The temperature depends on the wax itself.

"Warmer" waxes have lower melting points than colder waxes.

The wax manufacturer will have the melting temperature for the wax listed somewhere, whether it's on the package, or maybe the website.

...now, if the wax is smoking on the iron... it's too hot.

the first pass, to distribute the wax is the slowest. Once the wax (that you dripped on) is spread out, then each pass, you can go quicker.

Example:


For this hydrocarbon wax, the recommended starting setting for the iron is 110C.

Last edited by tanscrazydaisy; 10-24-2013 at 01:37 PM.
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Old 10-24-2013, 02:01 PM   #374 (permalink)
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Thanks for the reply.
I am using toko all temp wax. It's a white bar with no packaging.
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Old 10-24-2013, 03:16 PM   #375 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by AllMtrH22 View Post
Thanks for the reply.
I am using toko all temp wax. It's a white bar with no packaging.
Sounds like a non-consumer packaged stuff... so something like their Backshop wax...

Since All-Temp is for the most part, a cold/hard wax.... I would start about 130C, and adjust the iron accordingly.
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Old 12-13-2013, 01:17 AM   #376 (permalink)
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Would brushing and scotch padding in between waxes help at all? Keep the board riding fast?
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Old 12-13-2013, 04:20 AM   #377 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nsrider121 View Post
Would brushing and scotch padding in between waxes help at all? Keep the board riding fast?
not really. The fine tuning only helps with real fresh, cold snow, anything else is going to rub that "brushing and scotch padding" away in 200 feet of riding.
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Old 01-06-2014, 05:21 PM   #378 (permalink)
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quick question - does a diamond stone need a guide to maintain the edge angle? Files are usually used with file guides so I just wanted to check before potentially ruining my board.
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Old 01-06-2014, 05:38 PM   #379 (permalink)
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quick question - does a diamond stone need a guide to maintain the edge angle? Files are usually used with file guides so I just wanted to check before potentially ruining my board.
yes and it also makes it easier to use. and they need to be wet.
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Old 01-13-2014, 05:35 PM   #380 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by tanscrazydaisy View Post
yes and it also makes it easier to use. and they need to be wet.
hm you can't just run a diamond stone down your edge to de-burr? I've seen that in a few youtube videos D:
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