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post #31 of 422 (permalink) Old 11-22-2007, 08:33 AM
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^ what, no torque spec?

:P j/k, k thx...

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post #32 of 422 (permalink) Old 11-24-2007, 12:08 PM
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what about edges? how do you do them? make them all 90 degrees? write up on that anywhere?
post #33 of 422 (permalink) Old 12-13-2007, 04:25 PM
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I have a graphite base on one of my boards. Should I be using a graphite wax for the base or does it really matter?
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post #34 of 422 (permalink) Old 12-16-2007, 05:48 PM
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Any advice on storing boards during the off season? Is it recommended that you take the bindings off?
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post #35 of 422 (permalink) Old 12-16-2007, 06:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShortAssassin
Any advice on storing boards during the off season? Is it recommended that you take the bindings off?
Take the bindings off, slap a nice thick layer of wax on the base, and store out of direct sunlight and keep it out of places with dramatic temp changes.
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post #36 of 422 (permalink) Old 12-16-2007, 06:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boarderaholic
Take the bindings off, slap a nice thick layer of wax on the base, and store out of direct sunlight and keep it out of places with dramatic temp changes.
Thanks, does the position matter? Leaning against a wall, lying flat, etc?
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post #37 of 422 (permalink) Old 12-16-2007, 09:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Snowolf
I posted these in the how to section. It was suggested to me to put this information in here as well. I put together a video demonstrating a complete wax job from start to finish. I tried to keep it as short as I could, yet still provide detailed information.

Complete detailed snowboard waxing demonstration video:

Part One

Part Two

Part Three
So in video 2 I believe it was when you are scraping, you mention more wax buildup/harder removal around the binding mounting areas. I believe you said that that part of the board may be sucked in a little bit from the binding tightening so I started thinking. My sister put some bindings on her board a while back and I think the hardware was too long because there were 4 raised bumps on the bottom of the board where each mounting screw went, they went away when we backed the screws out and put shorter ones in. If the base gets sucked in where you mount bindings, does that mean they are on too tight? Is it just a natural thing? I've wondered about this stuff for a while now, and wonder when I see irregularities in the base where the bindings mount if it may be causing damage, or be a sign of damage/defect. Sorry for being long winded, but you got me thinking and the video taught me a handful of new things even though I've been waxing my own board for 2.5 years for the most part.

And great job on the videos btw, informative, to the point, but not so fast the viewer has to rewind to get something. Good job!

Last edited by Mr. Right; 12-16-2007 at 09:29 PM.
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post #38 of 422 (permalink) Old 12-17-2007, 05:56 PM
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Just finished watching the waxing videos. Great job Snowolf, I have the confidence to try it without fear up totally messing up my board now lol. Now I just have to learn about edge maintenance.
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post #39 of 422 (permalink) Old 12-17-2007, 06:31 PM
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Originally Posted by ShortAssassin
Thanks, does the position matter? Leaning against a wall, lying flat, etc?
lying flat is best, i've heard.
post #40 of 422 (permalink) Old 12-19-2007, 01:21 PM
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How bout some edge input. I am noob to edge maintenance, so don't take this as correct, but instead as a place to start. I probably am missing steps and other info.

Assuming my edges just have general wear and tear, ie; some rust, some burrs, some dull spots and some smashed impact spots.


step 1: debur with diamond stone on base edge and side edge. (can I slide stone in both directions on edge or only one direction?)
step 2: sharpen side edge with side edge tool only in one direction
step 3: optional: sharpen base edge with file or side edge tool only in one direction (is this always needed?)
step 4: optional: detune middle and tips of board.

*where does the gummy stone come into play??
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