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post #41 of 412 (permalink) Old 12-19-2007, 01:28 PM
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A gummi stone is not really necessary but is good for removing tiny burrs left behind from filing, etc. It is also useful for detuning sharp edges as it dulls the edge without removing any of the actual metal. But, sometimes if you are riding in really icy conditions, having those tiny little burrs can help you dig your edge in.

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post #42 of 412 (permalink) Old 01-05-2008, 12:50 AM
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So on edge tuning anyway, I'm ready to dive into it here. Now I'm wondering do the little pocket edge tuners work well? I was watching this video YouTube - Snowboard Tuning Part 2 - Edge Sharpening and I kind of like the file holder the guy is using. I just don't think it would be as accurate to wrap tape around the top of the file to get the correct bevel. I mostly freeride and I've been getting into moguls lately so my 2 year old un-molested edges aren't cutting it anymore. Do I need a file guide like the guy has in the video or is a normal little pocket edge tool enough?
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post #43 of 412 (permalink) Old 01-06-2008, 12:47 PM
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Okay, I'm new to waxing...and seem to be coming across the same problems no matter what I do.



I just get these spots when I start scraping that get white and eventually open up.



And on the girlfriends board when I start scraping the edge it just cracks out like mad, creating the white spots.

I figure I'm just being paranoid and not scraping enough off, but I just need some better advice than my own nagging thoughts.

Thanks
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post #44 of 412 (permalink) Old 01-06-2008, 12:54 PM
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Keep scraping man. Scrape until you think your done and then scrape a little more. You need to scrape all the wax off.
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post #45 of 412 (permalink) Old 01-06-2008, 01:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Snowolf
The hand held file guide is good for sharpening your edges, use it to file only the side edge; do not try to use it on the base edge. For filing the base edge, you need to get a decent file guide that is set at the angle you want (1 degree is standard for most riding, but they make them up with higher angles. The idea of using the Sharpie pen is sound....it gives you something to visually monitor your progress and helps prevent removing too much metal. Base edges need to be as uniform as possible, so be careful and take your time. Also, you want to maintain a 89 or 90 degree angle on your edges so if you have a 1 or 2 degree base edge bevel, be sure to match that on your side edge. An ideal free ride set up is a 1 degree base edge and a 2 degree side edge; this makes a very sharp, 89 degree edge that holds it`s edge well on ice.

You can ruin a board very easily by messing up the steel edges, so do not go cheap on this equipment, get good stuff and learn to use it properly.

A diamond stone or any knife sharpening stone is great to lightly hone down the filed edge; use a light touch and just go over it a few passes to remove file burrs. The hand held file guide is ideal to take in the car to run a few passes down your edge to get a good sharp edge again. I run one down my edges every couple of weeks to maintain a sharp edge.
I always have a KUU Sport "Ice Buster" side edge file in my backpack but leave the base edge sharpening for the garage where I can pay more attention.
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post #46 of 412 (permalink) Old 01-16-2008, 12:31 PM
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im using paste wax inbetween hot waxes and im wondering if the direction i wax(paste) matters?
cause ive read on forums and such that you should follow grooves, but the can says circular patterns?(wax on wax off lol)
so yeah which should i do/does it really matter? and i rub it in with a cloth/paper towel afterwards.
i always move from tip to tail when going in circles btw
post #47 of 412 (permalink) Old 01-21-2008, 06:07 PM
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I really can't figure out what I'm doing wrong.

I get those little cloud spots with the eroded hole in the middle, and once I get rid of them there is no wax left.

The other thing is the bottom of my board looks terrible after a run or two. The wax cracks, and seperates. It rides really fast, but it seems that I either have too much wax on it, or none.
post #48 of 412 (permalink) Old 01-27-2008, 12:46 AM
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Thanks to snowolf again, man... I just tried waxing my board for the forst time, and I think it turned out great... I compared it to my other board that was waxed, and ridden once and it feels similar, but more smooth, and maybe a little more 'soft' cuz of the newly applied wax.

I had to scrape for a long-ass time tho, and I think my Dakine 10" scraper isnt perfectly level, cuz the edges seemed to take more wax off than the middle of the scraper (even with even pressure applied, lol).

I hope it works well tomorrow

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Kris
Toronto Prelude Club
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post #49 of 412 (permalink) Old 01-28-2008, 10:09 PM
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Stupid question: Are there any sites with a wax scraper for cheap? I'm looking online and the cheapest I'm seeing is ~10+!

I just think thats a bit much for a piece of plastic =/
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post #50 of 412 (permalink) Old 02-03-2008, 05:16 PM
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Every time I try to buy wax for my skis my parents insist that nobody waxes their skis any more. I'm sure they will do the same when I buy a snowboard. What should I say to them?

I could just buy my own wax, but that's no fun.
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