i think a good sticky would be a general maintenance thread of how to keep up your board. there's a lot of noobs on here (including myself) that could benefit from having that info all in one spot. stuff like how & how often to wax your board, how often to get the edges done, what that entails, how to store your board in the off season, etc.
just a thought. i know it'd be a lot of info to type up, but it would be beneficial to many new people that are otherwise lost on the matter.
Zack, get a nice sharp razor blade & perform some base surgery.
You need to cut out anything that sticks out above the base then fill with p-tex or wax works too.
I watched snowwolfs video and am wondering what temperature you set the iron to. Looks like the wax melts immediately when he puts the iron down whereas it takes me awhile to get the wax melting unless I move very slowly. If I move any faster, the wax almost never melts and this is at a much higher temperature then what vancouver ski shop told me to use so I was worried.
Should I just turn it up more?
not really. The fine tuning only helps with real fresh, cold snow, anything else is going to rub that "brushing and scotch padding" away in 200 feet of riding.
quick question - does a diamond stone need a guide to maintain the edge angle? Files are usually used with file guides so I just wanted to check before potentially ruining my board.
Alright...I got a question. I took my board to get waxed and then went boardin, after a few go arounds I looked at the bottom of my board and the edges where white.
I was wondering how to get the white off the edges. I took it to a store here in town that waxes them but they didn't fix anything. It looks like its just too much wax but I wanted to get an opinion!
I would assume the edges are white bc they are dry and since you have pressured the edges moreso than the tips, middle etc they are going to dry out/wear the wax off faster. Depending on snow conditions and board itself the edges might get white after one day or five... Just learn to wax at home and maintain it as needed. It is fine to ride.
Can you scrape the White stuff off with ya fingernail?????
If so, too much wax and no dramas!!!!! Just ride it!!!!!
If not, they either haven't done a deep wax and its dried out fast, or its a relatively new board that'll take time to hold wax!!!!! (Found this was the case with both my sintered Lib and YES)
I can't really get it off with my fingernail. I tried to use my wax scraper which got some off but not much. I am taking it today to get it waxed and cleaned up a bit. I will be doing it on my own sometime soon, just gotta get my money together!
Hi guys, was wondering how often do you sharpen edges.
I live in east coast and conditions aren't great we had so little snow this year, so a lot of stuff icy.
I have gnu carbon credit 2013. Last Saturday when I was doing some steep diamonds sometimes I had to stop completely because I was scared that my board wont hold an edge. It wasnt fun at all, a few times board just slipped right under me.
I rode that board for about 20 days, so not sure what's happening.
A middle of the road diamond stone run along the edges, just between the boots, will help with hold when you need it. I look at my edges when I wax, so every 2-3 days. A little edge love on hard icy days will help a lot.
Can I re-itterate leave it? Your board is gonna get dinged up like that every day on the hill. If its not going to the wood core or a big hanging flap of material that's gonna peel way back its fine.
I've been waxing boards/skis for a few years now, family and friends. I've built a great snowboard tuning bench and board storage racks in small room in the garage. Purchased a lot of tools online from the good old USA as Australia don't seem to have a lot of the higher end products from good brands. I've discovered a great scraper to use is a "Chef Inox" plastic handled Stainless steel dough scraper. These are 150mm wide x 100mm tall. I just put a slight curve on the end tips of the blade to prevent it from gouging into the deck if you get a but radical on the scrapes. These are only about $Au4 and will last a lifetime. Really easy to hold with my big hands and do a great job. I've got a few perspex ones 150mm and 300mm but they need to be sharpened up every now and then.
Probably a stupid question, but, do I need to wax a brand new board before the first use? Like do they come prewaxed from the factory?
I would assume that the edges are sharp and will not have to be retuned (except if detuning). I'm thinking they would be prewaxed as well so they don't dry out. But I'm not sure if that's good to ride wax, or just something temporary so it doesn't get damaged during storage.
I have always just paid to have my board waxed, but now that my gf has picked one up and I have 2 board to look after I feel now it might be time to start.
I go roughly every 6 months and spend maybe 25 Australian dollars(per board) on a wax or 2 and a storage wax after my trip. The second board would double this (although she won't need much waxing )
I have looked at a basic kit and it seems that I can get :
-scraper $8
-Demon Base cleaner $9 CLEANER
- Wax (Demon Team All temp 133 grams) $9.60 WAX
-Cheap steam iron $12 (2000 watt but has a temp control)
-brush from hardware store $5
All up around $44 Aussie.
Questions are:
1. How long would this wax last a beginner? Obviously i am going to waste a fair amount while getting started but is this a tiny amount that will only alst me about 10 waxes? I see there are blocks that come per pound but cannot find one cheap for all temperature shipping to Australia.
2. Would I be better off letting a pro handle this? I'm still going to be too scared to do any edge work.
3. Is this iron going to trash the boards? I have read up and know to keep temp low and to keep the iron moving and to turn down the temp when the wax starts to smoke.
4. What sort of brush do i need to get? Guide says a nylon bristle brush. Does this mean a really stiff bristled scrubbing brush or more of a gentle shoe polishing style brush?
Most ppl use way too much wax and wast their time n energy on scraping all that excess wax off.
Rub the cold wax block on the base, this leaves a thin layer of wax which is sufficient.
Then spread that thin layer with the iron. Since the wax little AND already distributed, you won't need to iron as long as with the dripping method. Quick and continued moving of the iron: no prob with overheating, getting insert dimpels. And there's hardly excess wax to scrape off. I.e. a block of wax will last a looooong time.
Brush? Dunno. Never used one. My take? You don't need one.
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