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gen. maintenance tips

311K views 475 replies 141 participants last post by  Etienne 
G
#1 ·
boarder or anyone else-

i think a good sticky would be a general maintenance thread of how to keep up your board. there's a lot of noobs on here (including myself) that could benefit from having that info all in one spot. stuff like how & how often to wax your board, how often to get the edges done, what that entails, how to store your board in the off season, etc.

just a thought. i know it'd be a lot of info to type up, but it would be beneficial to many new people that are otherwise lost on the matter.
 
#266 · (Edited)
it goes in and on. it's pretty obvious to the touch when your board needs to be waxed.

and for what it's worth, wax isn't used for "abrasion resistance," it's actually there to increase friction to melt the snow faster. you're essentially hydroplaning on a thin layer of water between your board and the snow. the grooves allow the water to flow freely, reducing drag.

anyway, i don't claim to be an expert. i'm just repeating what every guide out there says. who knows. maybe they're all wrong and you're right.
 
#268 · (Edited)
that's a new one to me. i'm mainly going off the guide posted here.

http://www.snowboardingforum.com/boards/7010-guides-waxing-tuning-board-repair.html

here's the relevant section...

Next is scraping the excess wax off the board. As the wax is soaked into the base, everything that can be scraped off is excess. You can buy a scraper at a shop for cheap (go generic with scrapers to save $) or you can buy a small piece of square fiberglass from the hardware store. Make sure it's as wide as your board to ensure proper scraping. Start at one end of the board (tip or tail) and drag the scraper down the board, removing the excess wax. NEVER go horizontally as you'll damage the boards base potentially and it's structure. Proceed until all the excess wax has been removed. BE THUROUGH! Excess wax just results in additional friction, and as it is poorly shaped (unlike a smooth base) it will resist water flowing over it. Wax once again... isn't slick...


So once you've thuroughly removed all excess wax, you'll want to buff your board. Scotch Brite pads actually work the best. Get em, rub the piss out of your boad, and it'll come out smooth. Once again, tip to tail travels on those brushing. Once that is done, and the board is smooth, you'll want to STRUCTURE the base. You do this with a fine bristled brush. You drag from tip to tail harshly. This leaves grooves in the base. These grooves allow water to travel faster accross the base, and in retrospect result in you traveling faster. It also helps reduce the suction cup effect of two smooth surfaces with water inbetween them. A brush can be bought at your snowboard shop for $12-15, or a brush can be bought at a hardware store for $4. The choice is yours...
 
#270 ·
that's a new one to me. i'm mainly going off the guide posted here.
if your scraper is damaging your base by going horizontal or diagonal, you can be damn sure that it'll also damage your base if you go longitudinal


and if you're attempting to put a structure in a base using a brush... :eek: bad things will happen

what the brush does is remove the wax from a pre-existing structure
 
#271 ·
maybe it's just me, but i think i'll go with the guy who's worked in a board shop for 10 years waxing boards. especially when he's saying the same thing every other guide is saying.

it makes perfect sense to me that scraping against the grain could damage your board. the scraper could easily catch in the grain. scraping with the grain that's obviously not a problem.

but hey, if you want to wax your board that way, more power to you.
 
#280 ·
Last year one of the gear dudes at telluride suggested when I finished riding for the season that I should put a coat of wax on my board and not scrap it. They said this would keep my sintered base from drying out.

I did not do this and now my base looks like the base of the board has dried out. It has a white chalking kind of look (seems like the wax is what has dried out) My thinking is that I just remove whats left of the old wax and then rewax...scrap per Snowolf's videos and everything will be ok?
 
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