|02-22-2009, 09:53 PM||#1 (permalink)|
Arbor board - how to fix damaged bamboo surface
Due to some idiot not paying attention, my new Arbor board (roundhouse, 167) got some damage done to it (link to damage pic ). Usually i would not care all that much but this seems to be more than a cosmetic issue. The surface of the board is bamboo - and it seems that there might be some water damage to the bamboo and that it might get worse over time.
This happened just yesterday and the area directly adjacent to the damage is getting darker - possibly water getting under the "structural bamboo top" surface? The nick is about 3/4 inch long from top to bottom.
If anyone has any suggestion on how to fix this and prevent further/possible water damage, please let me know. Obviously, the manufacturer warranty does not apply here. Perhaps i should just take it to a board shop and have them sand / varnish the damaged part? Let me know what you think.
Thanks in advance,
|02-22-2009, 10:47 PM||#3 (permalink)|
there is a thread on Snowboard.com | Free Online Community | Meet People | Share Photos about how to fix your board - search arbor in the snowboard section
|02-23-2009, 12:31 PM||#4 (permalink)|
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Hillsboro, Oregon
Ugh i always hate to see such beautiful boards get damaged, just get it dry and you and you can throw some 24 hour cure epoxy or something on there probably to keep it from getting wet again. In reality thats all a board shop would do because thats all you really can do...
'09 151 Never Summer SL-R
'10 K2 T1 DB Bots
'09 Burton Cartel Bindings
|02-23-2009, 12:45 PM||#5 (permalink)|
Join Date: Jan 2009
Dry it thoroughly. Not just a 'I hope this is good.' drying, but a 'Man, if this isn't dry, I'll eat my shoe.' drying.
If you use epoxy, make sure it is flexible in cold weather. Be very generous with applying it, and let it cure fully. You can sand off what you don't need later.
Last edited by MunkySpunk; 02-23-2009 at 12:51 PM.
|03-04-2009, 11:27 PM||#6 (permalink)|
Join Date: Feb 2009
Here you go dude:
Arbor topsheets - by Jrobb
I know this is late but Arbor topsheets are different than most topsheets. You can actually repair them to new condition if you get nicks or scratches. They use a varithane (or similar) clear topcoat...about 8-10 coats. You can sand, buff, re-coat, polish however you want to rejuvinate. I had to redo mine on my A-Frame and decided to go matte with the finish. I think it looks better matte since it doesn't show smudges and fingerprints.
If you're worried or need to fix your topsheet email arbor and they will tell you step by step how to fix it. They used to have a link for Care on their 2005 website. Not sure if it's still there.
Actually not there anymore...bummer but I saved it from a few years back. Here it is...Arbor's own words:
"CARE AND MAINTENANCE DIRECTIONS
Our full-length Wood-top boards can show more dings and scratches than other
plastic-top boards. This does not mean they are more easily damaged, just that
the damage is more readily noticeable. This is a result of their higher gloss
finish and the overall impact of damaging the beautiful wood.
HOWEVER ó Arborís wood-top boards can be repaired, which is not possible with
any plastic topped board. You can maintain the finish through the seasons.
It is important to note that the wood topsheet material has been completely
impregnated with resin. It cannot take on, nor be damaged by water no mater how
much of the protective coating is removed.
The protective coating, which we call the "Photofusion Finish" is evolving. We
are finding ways to make it stronger and more scratch resistant with every new
line. Nevertheless, the protective coating from each season is created from the
same base formulation, which is similar in its properties to an automotive clear
coat. This means that the boards can be polished, buffed, repaired, and even
So get into fixing your board ó itís easy to keep it looking nice. Here is
what to do:
For shallow scratches and scuffs purchase a polish from your local auto parts
store. Follow the instructions to simply buff out these blemishes.
For deeper scratches, scuffs, and dings purchase a scratch remover or rubbing
compound from your local auto parts store. Follow the instructions to reduce or
eliminate the appearance of minor wounds to your board. Finish the job by
polishing and/or waxing the area.
For the deepest scratches and dings sanding will be required. Before
starting, make sure the affected area is dry, then sand being careful to only
remove the damaged finish and clean up the marred wood. It is possible to sand
through the wood top if you are not careful. We recommend using 220 grit
sandpaper. Once you have finished prepping the damaged area apply a thin layer
of Varathane or a similar UV resistant urethane based coating. Let dry, lightly
sand and apply an additional layer. Note: It is better to apply multiple thin
layers than one thick layer. Once the repair is flush with the original surface
of the board, wet sand with a fine wet/dry sandpaper and/or polish the area in
order to blend the repair into the existing finish. Finally, wax to bring up the
|03-05-2009, 08:07 AM||#7 (permalink)|
Thank you all for your suggestions.
I emailed arbor customer support and they replied with:
Luckily, there is an easy fix -
2-part Epoxy. Go to any hardware store and buy some CLEAR two-part epoxy.
Mix it up in plastic cup and apply with a q-tip. If you want, you can sand
it and reapply until it is completely sealed. This is what we do with our
boards here, and is pretty much the industry standard. You should be able
to have this done at a tune shop also, but it is very simple.
That exactly what i have done and so far so good!.