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Come take a look at Ryme Experimentals

3K views 28 replies 12 participants last post by  aiidoneus 
#1 · (Edited)
Well we've changed the name a few times over the years but I think we've settled on one for now. Come check us out at www.rymeexperimentals.com and let us know what you think. The website is a work in progress and will be updated as we push out some new builds.

Cheers everyone, enjoy the summer.

-Don
 
#5 · (Edited)
Just join the community.

"Advertising"

"If you want to open a thread to point people to your SNOWBOARDING RELATED product or company, that's ok. Don't open multiple threads in multiple sections, or you'll be deleted and banned. Don't 'bump' your thread every day with irrelevant addendums. Don't drop irrelevant posts into multiple existing threads pointing out your company or thread. Be prepared for a little bit of abuse in any case. Be a contributing member, not just a free-advertiser. It is ok to have a link to your SNOWBOARDING RELATED company web page in your signature."
 
#11 ·
Yes we were under a different name last few years and the garage look is what we're going for this season so thanks. Anybody can cover the core with a topsheet. I want people to see the core so they know what they're riding. Most of the lower level boards on the market use a lot of tip/tail spacers so they don't have to build a quality core. Our cores are wood from tip to tail which gives you a much more reactive deck if you're good enough to ride it.
 
#8 ·
"Go anywhere" deck with a 10.6m sidecut? Did you do much research on that one? Your pow deck has more sidecut than your "all mountain go anywhere"? Hmmmm.

Also, woodgrain is in, yeah. But don't make your core your graphic with glass then a clear topsheet. It honestly just looks like a prototype or unfinished build with the glass you're using. Thin the core an appropriate amount and use a veneer topsheet if you want to stick with grain top.
 
#10 ·
"Go anywhere" deck with a 10.6m sidecut? Did you do much research on that one? Your pow deck has more sidecut than your "all mountain go anywhere"? Hmmmm.
We've been riding the all mountain for about 5 years now and it's a rock star. The powder deck has a deep sidecut so you can get through the trees quickly. Not sure where you ride but up here the trees are plentiful and you better be able to turn quick in the steeps. If you ride the boards, you'll get it.
 
#12 ·
I wouldn't consider that garage look a positive and if you're actively trying to make that your image I will say that it comes across more as "well we just don't have the processing ability to make your board look aesthetically pleasing". You're adding more glass to compensate for a topsheet which = more weight and more stiffness. Some people might want that but over all it's not anything special it's just a cheap DIY solution to not having subliminated graphics. As mentioned there are better ways to get the wood look.

At least you're using black Durasurf which is the stronger of the Crown Plastics ptex, but Iso is just better. The problem with Crown though is every now and then you get a bad batch that is just soft and it rips easier when you hit a rock. Their lighter colors are way more prone to this.

$450 for the start of your boards is expensive and I can name more than a couple models of decks under that price that have tip to tail wood cores. Pretty much any non U.S. made board will have that until you get down in the sub $289 price point. $500 for a splitboard is intriguing but you make no mention of if there's an inside edge or not and when I click the link it just takes me to your Powder boards page. Which that board just looks like the old Burton Odin (think that's the model). Then there's the hardware which isn't mentioned and all that fun stuff. I'm assume it's just a deck that's cut down the middle and nothing else, please correct me if I'm wrong.

Your 1 inch wide carbon stringers are just going to make that thing stiff tip to tail and not have ideal flex. You should be using a strategic placed carbon flex pattern or carbon webbing. This logic of lets just slap 2 stringers down it might have worked in the 90's and there definitely are guys that want that, but when push comes to shove that boards just going to be stiff through and through and not lively or playful where you want it.

Now lets just be honest this is a one man operation and you might be proud of your work and what you do, but we (not that I'm speaking for everyone) want a bit more from our boards. Other than your passion of doing it yourself you're not bringing anything great to the table. I'd be curious to see better high res pics of your finished product as well as seeing how your sandwich construction stays together. Many have come before you and many will come after you, in the end if you're not reinventing and pushing forward you're just more of the status quo which is not what snowboarding needs.
 
#13 ·
I'd be all for Rhyme sending BA a board to "review", at least we will get an honest opinion for what it is...

Otherwise, in my mind it is and always will be an unknown, where from someone who is trusted to give honesty makes a difference...

To the OP, you have nothing to lose right about now with this, as there are very few if any who would buy your boards on here, but this could help you no end if your boards are good...

Just an idea... And that is even before BA has even said yes he would review your boards, he may not have time in his busy schedule of reviewing every other board out there... :giggle:
 
#15 ·
Lets see if I can hit all the questions... I agree Iso is better material but its much more expensive too unless you're buying it in bulk. You mention adding more glass to the topsheet, The topsheet is duravision not glass. Standard build is one layer of 20oz triax sandwiched on either side of the core. The splitty does have a center edge, its made in two pieces not cut afterwards. You can use any hardware you want but I tend to go with Voile. Again, it's easy to get and relatively well priced. The pow design is not the old burton Odin, its a design that I came up with after playing around with some different ideas. The carbon stringers on the split board seem to work well, especially when your skinning up. In most most recent build of that board, I replaced the top piece of glass with a sheet of lightweight carbon. That saved some weight in epoxy and the deck is holding up and riding well.

The sandwich on the decks has been holding together quite well for a vacuum press. The board I ride as my daily cruiser has over 60 days on it with no delam issues.

Yes were a small operation and thats really all we desire to be. The boards will never be mass produced. My focus is more to the local riders around here that want a custom deck and someone that they can turn too if they have any problems with it. The website shows a few boards that we make more of but really, everything is done custom. The initial pricing mentioned is just a guess for now, it will get fined tuned as time goes on.

Did I get all the questions?
 
#16 ·
This comes right from your website, so if the information is off it rests solely on you. "Our standard look is a stained or plain wood core but we can also do graphics. We use paper graphics to keep the cost to you down and put a clear topsheet over them for protection. Paper graphic boards come with an extra 6oz. layer of glass to better adhere the graphic in the sandwich that prevents delams."

I didn't look at the fact your vacuum pressing. I'm just not even going to go there, too many inconsistencies with this.

Good luck with what you're doing, but I would never buy one or recommend one to someone. Just too many off putting factors that would make me feel like they're throwing money away.
 
#17 ·
Yea when we do paper graphics we protect them with thin glass which does make them heavier. This works really well while we are still experimenting with designs, flex, etc... so we don't have to pay for sublimated topsheets. We can certainly do sublimated graphics, the cost is about $50+ per topsheet more than paper.

Sounds like riding an experimental board is not your thing so have fun on you're Burton. Where bouts do you usually ride?
 
#19 ·
Sounds like riding an experimental board is not your thing so have fun on you're Burton. Where bouts do you usually ride?
I guess this is what comes from not knowing the forum in which you post...

Do you honestly think that BurtonAvenger rides a Burton board for 200 days a season...???

Try reading the forum a little more closely, and people signatures, and the links which they post in there signatures...

You may have just passed on your best opportunity for some of the best free marketing and as such sales from this forum...

Just saying' :eusa_clap:

I am also surprised BA has been very mild these last few days, is everything alright with you over there, or are you just chilled out and taking a break now all the hard work is over before the season gets going again... Haha
 
#18 ·
If I was to pay for a board from you I would not want it to be some guys garage experiment. I've ridden plenty of experimental decks, some that have gone on to be top sellers for brands and have changed the way snowboard construction is done. Your decks aren't that special.

I clock 200 plus days a year in the Colorado Rockies.
 
#21 ·
Plain and simple this guy came here to promote his product. It's pissing him off people aren't buying into what he's offering. If anyone on this forum were to buy a product like this I would recommend them to ETM and his powder board he built. That is what I call craftsmanship and quality.

This is built with a fucking vacuum bag. You could build one for $80 bucks at your local hardware store. The finish on these boards is going to be much like that website, ASS.
 
#26 ·
I don't know a great deal about snowboard construction, but that vacuum bullshit looks janky as hell. A quick Google search says you can buy an entry level snowboard press for like $5000. Hell, I'm pretty sure ETM built his own.

If you're serious about building boards to try to sell and not just playing around in your garage in your free time, you should at least buy or build a real press.
 
#27 ·
If you know what you're doing you can build a press for under 500 bucks. Sometimes even less than that. It's not hard to build one and it's better than a vacuum bag. Vac bags are really only good for on the fly prototypes. If you watch Signal's Every Third Thursday they use this method on a few boards, the most notable being the underwater board they did in NZ.
 
#28 ·
I just had a chance to re-read this conversation and I owe the group an apology. I screwed up by posting the thread in the manner that I was trying to sell something and the conversation turned defensive on my part, I apologize for that.

My true intentions were to let you know that we are building boards up here and see what you think. Thanks for the comments; we're going to keep building and if your ever up in the Seattle area, feel free to drop me a message and Id be happy to meet you up at the slopes to take the decks for a few turns.

Ill post more of the building progress as it develops.

-Thanks
 
#29 ·
Definitely agree. As a bystander to it, I think a better approach would have been to get to know people here a bit more. BA, although harsh and to the point (a lot less harsh than in the past) has a fair amount of experience. Is he always right? I don't think so, is anyone? Does he have a ton to contribute? For sure.

For me, I like to see a company that is always improving. I've honestly never built my own snowboard. But I do know that there is better processes out there. If you guys are producing decent boards with subpar methods. Why not experiment and produce great boards.

My 5cents. :dunno:
 
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