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post #1 of 3 (permalink) Old 10-26-2007, 03:41 PM Thread Starter
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OK, Next NOOB Question: Edges

OK, so I think I'm pretty happy with my starting binding setup at +18, -3 and 20". Now I need some info on edges. I've read alot of conflicting info on detuning and various edge bevels and am pretty confused. Is detuning only for park riders or is it helpful for freeride as well. According to Rome, my Solution 158 has what they call thier mountain bevel -1, -1 degrees and they also say that Rome boards are surrounded in a protective perimeter of steel for damage control from unintended collisions with hard objects and Tips and tails are de-tuned So my question is should I leave my edges alone or should I have them detuned at a local shop? I really don't want to spend all day catching edges and doing face plants on my new board and since I have no idea if last years rental was detuned or not, I'm at a loss. I'm gonna hot wax my board myself, because from the info and videos I've seen online, that seems almost idiot proof, but for some reason I just can't wrap my brain around the whole edge tuning/detuning thing. Thanks again for all the help you guys have given me so far, it's all really gonna help me improve my riding alot quicker this season.
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post #2 of 3 (permalink) Old 10-26-2007, 09:23 PM
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If you aren't riding in the park much then I would not detune the edges on that board. The bevel that your board comes with is even enough for some occasional park riding (however, most park riders use a min. bevel of -2). Having the tip and tail detuned already will also help you out from the start. Park riders are the ones that are most concerned about catching edges as this usually occurs when boardsliding on boxes and rails. However, if you aren't riding much park with that board, or dragging ass on icy groomers (another great way to catch an edge) then I wouldn't worry about detuning that board.
post #3 of 3 (permalink) Old 10-27-2007, 10:49 AM
Oh god...NO!
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If you are riding primarily mountain, groomers, etc, then try out Rome's bevelling first. The -1, -1 means the side of the metal edge has a one degree bevel and the other -1 means the bottom of the edge has a one degree bevel. The one degree side edge is fine (I prefer a 2 degree edge personally), and the one degree base edge makes turning a little easier or forgiving(I prefer no base bevelling at all). The very tip and tail are not used at all so don't even stress about it, just leave them alone. Park riders like to detune them to reduce swing weight (manufacturers like Mervin ie Gnu, Libtech don't even have full wrapped metal edges), so if your a freerider don't bother. Detuning the tips of the "effective edge" is to help in a turn transition to make the beginning turn less "grabby" but I prefer my board having grab.

Keep in mind though that "detuning" your edge is not the same as bevelling your edge. All you need to do to detune is to take a gummi stone or a pocket stone and lightly skim it across the pointy part of your edge. The goal is to NOT remove metal but to just dull the sharpness of your edge. This allows you to resharpen the edge when ever necessary. Bevelling is permanent as you are removing actual edge material. Here is a link that is easy to read and is informative about snowboard edge angles Snowboard Tuning

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