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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-03-2009, 12:23 AM
junkie28
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Wax, tune, and storage

So I've read wax around every 3-5 days of riding, or when slow. Tune like maybe once a month, or when edges don't hold, or have nicks. Store with a layer of wax, ironed, and un-scraped; store out of light(?).

I've also heard grind-stone once a season, and professional tune once a season.

Any opinions on this like when to actually get these done or unnecessary steps?


For waxing and tuning, when you are doing both on the same day, is there preference on which to do first?

And tuning for the off-season to tune when the season ends, or at the start of the season?
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-03-2009, 09:06 AM
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Originally Posted by junkie28 View Post
I've also heard grind-stone once a season, and professional tune once a season.

Any opinions on this like when to actually get these done or unnecessary steps?


For waxing and tuning, when you are doing both on the same day, is there preference on which to do first?

And tuning for the off-season to tune when the season ends, or at the start of the season?
I like to tune first, then wax. Reason being that any metal filings from tuning will get removed during the base prep for waxing and the tuning tools won't mess up the wax job near the edges.

To me a stone grind is for specific problems (uneven base, edges lower than the base, removal of "oxidized/abraded" ptex on the base surface that doesn't hold wax well, etc.), so I don't view it as a mandatory annual job. Ditto with a professional tune.

One thing I do on the final pre-storage wax job is to rub the bar of wax all over the edges. Helps prevent rust from forming over the summer
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-03-2009, 06:37 PM
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I do exactly the same thing Bones does
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-03-2009, 10:12 PM
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I like to tune first, then wax. Reason being that any metal filings from tuning will get removed during the base prep for waxing and the tuning tools won't mess up the wax job near the edges.

To me a stone grind is for specific problems (uneven base, edges lower than the base, removal of "oxidized/abraded" ptex on the base surface that doesn't hold wax well, etc.), so I don't view it as a mandatory annual job. Ditto with a professional tune.

One thing I do on the final pre-storage wax job is to rub the bar of wax all over the edges. Helps prevent rust from forming over the summer

he basically has it down pat

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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-04-2009, 01:13 AM
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One thing I do on the final pre-storage wax job is to rub the bar of wax all over the edges. Helps prevent rust from forming over the summer
ahh! good tip! i have a major problem with rust (i live 100 metres from the ocean)
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-04-2009, 09:11 AM
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good info, thanks, only ~7 months to go for the right coast
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-04-2009, 09:40 AM
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One thing I do on the final pre-storage wax job is to rub the bar of wax all over the edges. Helps prevent rust from forming over the summer
This isn't hot wax then, right? What kind of wax are you using? Sounds like a good idea.


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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-04-2009, 10:41 AM
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This isn't hot wax then, right? What kind of wax are you using? Sounds like a good idea.
This is the hot wax before it is melted in bar form.
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-04-2009, 12:02 PM
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This isn't hot wax then, right? What kind of wax are you using? Sounds like a good idea.

Just the tail end of the bar after I'm finished hot waxing. I still get some rust discoloration, but not pitted like my gf's board was after a summer. Any wax or petroleum jelly will do, but since you've got hot wax in your hand anyway after the summer storage wax job...
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