landonk5

hey guys. can anyone give more information on how to tune
and detune your board? even a nice vid maybe? welll anyway.
i think it'd be helpful to everyone if there was a thread
showing how and why you would tune or detune your board.
from what i've leaned(im hoping its right), you detune your
base edge so you wont catch a rail, and you tune your base
edge to make sharper turns. but i guess thats like a black
or white choice and you can only choose one so i think a
solution to this is adjusting the edge bevel. you would
make your edges look like this: sorry for the crude drawings
but i didnt want to do it to my board without make sure
the angles were right. so basically, you make the base edge
(the metal part the is inline with your base) tuned upward
so that instead of the base going flat into the metal, your
base would be flat and then when it starts going into the metal,
it goes slightly upward. then to adjust the side edge, you'd
tune that edge to the same angle you tuned the base edge
to. so it would still be a 90 degree edge, just raised
so you wont catch any edges. i probably made a mistake somewhere
here, so feel free to correct me and add your input.

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Grimdog

Check out these links.

YouTube - Snowboard Tuning Part 1 - Detuning Edges

YouTube - Snowboard Tuning Part 2 - Edge Sharpening

YouTube - Snowboard Tuning Part 3 - Clean up your Edges

YouTube - Snowboard Tuning Part 4 - Edge Bevels Explained

YouTube - Snowboard Tuning Part 5 - Edge Bevels Continued

landonk5

so basically, the best thing to do is to make my edge bevels like
1-2 degrees up so that i wont catch a rail, but i'd only have to
adjust my board angle to the ground 1-2 degrees to make a nice turn
yes?

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landonk5

and also about P TEX. i guess basically its the same thing
your base is made out of so when you get a core shot you
light the candle and drip it into the deep craters. but
can we get some info on how to apply it. ive done some p-tex
repairs on my cousin's board, which is never had a wax or
repair in 6-8 years, and now it looks pretty decent. but
as hard as i've tried, i can never do the whole board with
out dripping some carbon into the shot. ive heard that
this isnt CRAZY bad but the small barbon pieces dont hold
as well as the regular stuff. so i guess theres that technique
called back rolling, but its pretty hard to master(for me atleast)
so can anyone explain more on that? please and thanks.

and also i remember reading about the ribbon p-tex? info about
that and/or any other p-tex would be appriciated.

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Grimdog

I have never used the P-tex candle because of the possibility of getting carbon in the repair area, I have used the ribbons with a P-tex iron and I have a custom made plate that fits onto a propane torch. The plate fits around the collar of the torch and the flame heats up the plate. Then, you press the P-tex against the heated plate and drip it onto the base.

P-tex Iron
K106C-PRO-FIX.jpg

landonk5

so if you want to use the ribbon p-tex you need to have a p-tex iron or that
special plate added to the torch? if you didnt have the torch thing, would
you just lay the ribbon onto the damaged area and go over it with a p-tex iron?
how hot does the iron have to be because my waxing iron can go up to
160 degrees C(320 degrees F). would that be hot enough?

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Grimdog

The P-tex iron would work better because the end is designed to be able to focus on working the melted P-tex in the damaged area and not getting all over the base.

landonk5

ohh i see. can anyone explain the technique of backrolling when
using a drip P-text candle?

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