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Old 11-01-2009, 01:34 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Detuning

I think I finally understand detuning a little better. I found this on the web:

Detuning for carving

Detuning is the process of dulling the metal edge around the tip and/or tail to allow the board to release easily between carves. Without detuning, some boards will feel hooky. However, detuning has the effect of shortening the effective edge of the board, so it is not recommended for carving. After tuning your board, do not immediately detune the tip and tail. Instead, take a diamond stone with you to the slope, and detune only if the board feels too catchy. If the board feels hooky at the turn initiation, detune the tip. If it won't release from a turn, detune the tail. If the board catches a lot on the flats, that is also a tip-off that you might want to detune. Make 1 or 2 strokes with the diamond stone, rolling it from flat to 45 to feather the transition from sharp to dull, for about 10 cm around the edge/tip or edge/tail transition. You can also run a gummi stone at a 45 angle. If you find that you need to detune the tip and tail, you might want to consider more base bevel, which will make the board release easier and obviate the need for detuning. However, detuning is ultimately a personal preference. Other tips:

If you get your board tuned at a shop, insist that they not detune the board. That's because some shops apply excessive detuning, which will completely ruin your edges.
Some people find that a board will naturally detune itself after a few runs.
Boards that are very damp, or that have no taper, or that have a lot of sidecut depth may need more detuning. The Oxygen Proton is one example of a zero-taper board that can be unrideable with a small base bevel and no detuning.
You can buy diamond stones in a butterfly-knife style holder that folds up, which you can take with you on the slope.
Printed on the topsheet of the Burton Speed is the advisory "Detune 50mm @ Tip & 30mm @ Tail", an embellishment most likely added by the lawyers.
If you are racing, detuning will help skid the board at various times on rutted-up snow around gates. However, custom race boards typically have a huge taper that obviates the need for detuning. Sigi Grabner detunes at the tip and tail, and it seems to work for him.
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Old 11-01-2009, 01:44 AM   #2 (permalink)
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The way I understand it, the blue portion is personal preference how far one wants to go into the effective edge for detuning. The more one goes to detuning all the way to the bindings would be less chance the edge would catch but also run the risk or less edge hold. The other side of the spectrum is to only detune the very tip ( the red portion) and leave the entire effective edge with the preferred beveled angle.

Would someone with a kind heart please enlighten me with my concept.

Thank you in advance
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Old 11-01-2009, 02:13 AM   #3 (permalink)
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i feel like your looking into it further then you must but a typical way to do it for a casual rider is detune the tip and tail, before the blue part in your beautiful artwork...the rest just let the snow and ice wear down...if your riding park mainly you may want to get your board beveled to 1-2 or possibly even 3 degrees if you are wild and crazy.
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Old 11-01-2009, 07:57 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skunkworks View Post
I think I finally understand detuning a little better. I found this on the web
You can also find it on the sticky posts at the start of the Equipment Talk subforum that nobody reads before posting the 83rd 'Need bored (sic) advice' thread of the day.

Err on the side of caution and take off less than you might think you want. Once you detune your tip, it's nigh impossible to get the edge back on it, so don't go too far in.
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Old 11-01-2009, 08:51 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Thank you for the reponse. I understand the bevels and what to do with the effective edge and the angle I set my board at. Maybe I am reading too much into detuning but there's an aspect that I was never really clear on. Looking at my drawing I think the red part (the edge not touching the snow) is what most people would detune. However if that's the case why would detuning help with avoding catching an edge since it's not touching the snow.

Thereby I think there are those would would actually detune the yellow part which means they actually detune a little part of the effective edge. And the purple part of course would be the extreme which means they're really agressive in their detune. I understand one has to be careful how far one goes to detune their edge since there's no going back.

I finally got it. I'm so happy now I can go back to watching the Yankees take a step closer to winning another world series.

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Old 11-02-2009, 10:41 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Hi Skunkworks,

You bring up an interesting topic. You are not alone in your confusion. There have been a few internet posts and videos that have sent thousands of boarders out to their workbenches, just to cripple perfectly good boards. Repair shops have spent a lot of time trying to fix this for VERY bummed out riders, and there is little they can do.

Worse yet, a lot of riders are taking a file to their new boards and detuning them before they ever ride them, and with very little idea of why they are doing so.

To answer your question, detuning the tip and tail (only the areas past the widest point of each) will not hurt, but it will also be almost undetectable in your riding. Any detuning done inside of the two wide points is cutting into your usable effective edge and should only be considered if you know for sure that you have a catch spot. This will be different for every board and every rider.

If you do find a catch spot, you may wish to round it out, but do so in stages. All detuning does not have to be done at once, so do a tiny bit and if it isn't enough, do more. Don't go nuts (like we have seen so many riders do) and round off a foot of board to fix a few cm's of problem area. Also beware that detuning a catchy area may not help at all, as it is not always the sharp edge that is the issue, but it can simply be the shape of the sidecut, or the stiffness of the nose or tail (or the two in tandem relative to your weight).

Also, if a catch spot is found, it is common that it is only toeside or heelside, but not both. If it is a heelside spot, don't watse you unaffected toeside edge.

Detuning has been around forever (started with skis) but has never been more fashionable than right now. Don't ruin your perfectly good board based on fashion. Ride your board for a few days before you decide if you need to detune. Then go about it gradually and selectively.

Chances are you will not need to do a thing.

Last edited by Wiredsport; 11-02-2009 at 10:45 AM.
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Old 11-02-2009, 10:46 AM   #7 (permalink)
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just do what i do, and completely remove the edges
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Old 11-02-2009, 10:51 AM   #8 (permalink)
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just do what i do, and completely remove the edges
sorry but thats a horrible idea for anything but straight up urban riding.
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Old 11-02-2009, 10:55 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alex is w0rd View Post
just do what i do, and completely remove the edges
I've got an idea, how about folks DON'T do what you do so they don't ruin their boards? OP stated it was detuning for carving.

Round off all of your edges, and you might as well be boarding on a dinner plate for all the edge control you have. Good for pure park, not good for ANYTHING else.
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Old 11-02-2009, 01:57 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MunkySpunk View Post
I've got an idea, how about folks DON'T do what you do so they don't ruin their boards? OP stated it was detuning for carving.

Round off all of your edges, and you might as well be boarding on a dinner plate for all the edge control you have. Good for pure park, not good for ANYTHING else.

For the most part sure, and I think he was joking, but I actually rounded off the majority of the edge on my gnu street with magentraction and can still ride it around the mountain really well. I don't live on the icecoast though, I doubt I would of did it if I lived there.
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