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First Board help

3K views 47 replies 10 participants last post by  Anais 
#1 ·
Ok, I have a question that is probably been asked a million times on here already, but given that at least a year has past and everyone has new experiences and new realizations and new boards have come out, I wanted to get fresh new answers.

I am looking to purchase my first board. I just don't want to rent this year as rentals are expensive ($50 a day) and I would rather buy even if this is the only year I snowboard. I am not looking for a top of the line board, but I do not want one that is dangerous or will break on me the first time I fall.

Lets keep it simple and stick with brand names. I would like two lists if you would, the good list, and the stay away from if you value your life (dangerous) list.

The good list really speaks for itself, but if you could say a little about the stay away from brands I would really appreciate it.

If you want to know about me and my situation, I am older, in Japan, not very experienced, and will probably fall down a lot. I do not ever picture myself jumping or doing tricks. I have asked about the snow conditions and been told that it is powderish or hard depending on the temp and time of day.

Thanks
 
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#5 ·
Don't touch M3. First board I bought was an M3 and the base essentially self-destructed after 2 weeks, super icy morning grinded it right through to the base under the bindings on both edges.

Camp Seven I've never heard anything bad about, and @Wiredsport manufactures and sells them so I'm sure he could steer you in the right direction for a suitable package.
 
#6 ·
That is good info on the m3. I'm seriously considering either the camp seven or the burton process. I'd be getting a good deal on the process, and it would even end up cheaper than the other options, but the size is 157 and i know that is probably to small for my fat butt. I plan on dieting, but lets be realistic, no way to get from 215 to 175 in 2 months.

How much does weight really affect the board?
 
#7 ·
Hi Tim,

Rider weight is a big deal. That along with foot size are going to determine board size (in a given model).

If you are going to be buying in Japan, local availability may be a big part of your decision as international shipping can dull an otherwise great deal.

Which Process are you considering (Classic Camber or Flying V)?

Also please let us know your bare foot measurement.

STOKED!
 
#8 ·
Exactly right on difficulties of the location. There would be a lot more choices stateside as shipping is expensive because of the length of the board. The burton process is the classic camber. Its locally available for just at 200, but the largest they have is 157. For boots, i got some size 10 burton invaders. Bindings are the freestyle size m. Not that i'm a burton lover, just the burton stuff was on sale for so cheap and they appear to work with either the channel or regular boards so i thought it win win.
 
#9 ·
Hi Tim,

For sure we will make suggestions for you that avoid shipping to Japan. That will eat up any savings.

We should dial you in a bit before we get too deep on a particular model. Burton suggests the Process 157 for riders of 135 lbs to 175 lb. Regardless of marketing, boards really have a range of 40 to 50 lbs so this is a very straight forward range by Burton and you should definitely follow that. Ideally we want you as centered in the range as possible.

Also, let's not use boot size right now. Let's get a good bare foot measurement.

Please measure your foot using this method:

Kick your heel (barefoot please, no socks) back against a wall. Mark the floor exactly at the tip of your toe (the one that sticks out furthest - which toe this is will vary by rider). Measure from the mark on the floor to the wall. That is your foot length and is the only measurement that you will want to use. Measure in centimeters if possible, but if not, take inches and multiply by 2.54 (example: an 11.25 inch foot x 2.54 = 28.57 centimeters).

Yup :)
 
#15 ·
Mostly differant web sites, looking for price and design (looks). Beyond that i have no idea what i'm looking for, thats why im on here asking your thoughts. Theres actually 3 others im looking at, but didnt want to post them with the others so that i could get opinions on these first.

The original was the burton process, because it was on sale, but it was too short (157) so i'm looking for something longer.
 
#16 ·
Can i ask why they would be bad choices? The previous comment on the m3 was helpful. If the quality is bad, please let me know. If they fall apart, please let me know, if the edge doesnt stay sharp and it wont hold on ice, please let me know, if it is just the name is not your favorite let me know. Just saying they are terrible boards doesnt really help and is why this forum gets so many of these first board posts. Really, you need to remember that us first timers really have no idea what we are asking so if you could spend a little time to explain why not a board it would be helpful.

I am mostly wanting something better than the rental that wont break on me when i fall.

It gets hard to spend several hundred dollars on something i may use 3 times a year.
 
#17 ·
If you don't know what you're asking how can we provide a solid answer? And why are you so worried about dangerous bad brands that will fall apart on you?? No one is going to recommend shitty boards to you...


Give us more information basically. Ok, so you're a beginner, older and may go 3 times a year. What do you want to get out of riding? You gonna stay on groomers? Do you want to do any park, trees, pow? What have you currently been riding for rental gear? And finally, let's not spend hundreds of dollars on a board based on looks or random google searches.
 
#18 ·
Sure,

Im 40, 5'11 210-215lbs.

I want to ride a snowboard down a mountain. Whats a groomer? I was told the snow here is icy when its really cold, powder when its fresh and can vary throughout the day being ice early morning, powder throughout the day and ice late at night.

I wont do any jumps, pipes, tricks, i just wanna get outa the house and its something to do.

Rentals were in a differant place as i have changed countries since i last rode a snowboard. They were 158 to 163 no name boards in korea. That snow was mostly ice. I am not there anymore. I moved here 6 months ago ( southern honshu japan)
 
#20 ·
You've got some amazing riding on Honshu and the most reliable powder in the world on Hokkaido. I don't know how long it will take you get to to the mountains or how often you'll get to ride but be prepared to get seriously addicted to snowboarding and improve quite quickly. There's nothing 'wrong' or 'bad' about some of the boards on your list - it's just that they're aimed squarely at beginners and I don't think you'll be a total beginner for very long.

Sent from my ONE E1001 using Tapatalk
 
#21 ·
I'm not sure of the differance between the beginner level boards and the advanced ones, but i just want something safe and fun for me. If the differance is speed, i would rather have the slow one because that way i can have fun without the speed scareing me. But its got to be able to turn. I got on a rental once, it was faster then the others i had and i couldnt turn for nothin when it started getting fast. I didnt like it.
I was hoping to stay under 200. But, its gotta be safe, i dont wanna be the guy whos board snaps in half when he falls and then breaks his leg.
Im wondering if a beginer board wouldnt be the way to go anyway cause wouldnt they be made so beginners could progress faster?? Maybe a little slower and easier to maneuver?
 
#23 ·
The difference between a "beginner board" and an "advanced board" is definitely not speed of the board. Almost any board, if you point it directly downhill, will go the same speed (Let's avoid all of the base material arguments for now >:)).

What an advanced board typically means is it takes more effort or advanced skill to feel comfortable on the board. For example, something that has a very hard, aggressive camber profile and stiff torsional flex (ie NS Ripsaw, B Custom X, etc.) would warrant a board to be more suited for an "advanced" rider because they will know how to work the board a little more than a beginner would. This board though will be able to handle varied terrain much better (typically) than your run of the mill beginner board. Conversely, something like a full rocker park noodle (ie Rome Artifact Rocker) would be easier, and require less user input to turn and control. What most people start on is something in between. Buy your first all-mountain, intermediate board and learn from it. Find out if you want more flex, more camber, more taper, etc.

What everyone is trying to say is that if you are wanting to develop your skills and fall in love with snowboarding, you will not want a "beginner" deck. After you start progressing off of the bunny and green hills, you will want a board that can handle more. It gives you room as a rider to grow rather than plateau for years and years. And trust me, if you buy a shitty beginner board, you will be on here in a few months asking all of us again what board you should get because your first one just won't cut it!! You'd be hard pressed to find someone on here who only has one board. We all have done the trail and error and it's part of what makes snowboarding awesome!
 
#22 ·
You're looking for a board to compensate for the fact that you're a beginner. That's the wrong way round in my opinion. Your skills will quickly improve. I'm not advocating getting a supper stiff freeride sled, just an easy to ride all mountain deck that will see you right for a few seasons. If you were buying from the UK I'd say the Flow Drifter would be a great choice and super value in the summer sales. There's plenty of shops in Tokyo I just don't know what they've got in stock.

http://en.japantravel.com/tokyo/jimbocho-winter-sports-shop-street/2855

Sent from my ONE E1001 using Tapatalk
 
#24 ·
I'd recommend the opposite of what everyone is saying. get w/e cheap ass board you can outgrow really fast so you can get something good after you're done with it. It costs more money this way, but everyone likes getting new gear. >:)

my recommendation would be a CRC or RCR deck, 157-160 depending on the effective edge of the board. it all depends on the availability of board options in your location.

probably the best board for you? a Yes. Basic 160. can't find it? get a K2 Raygun 159. can't find that? burton proccess off-axis or flying V. can't find those? seriously... wtf man. wtf..
 
#25 ·
Here is my beginner 2 cents to help the OP.

I am 6'1 with ~200lbs and riding 159w K2 Fuse Wide. It's a flat profile and it's ok to learn. I paid CAD $135 on the board and decide to go shorter to help me to maneuver as linking turns. It's a board that needs to be replaced after I learn the basics. I believe that the cost of the board will be around CAD $13.50 per day of snowboarding (if I go snowboarding 10 times).

The most important component is not the board, it is the boots. I bought a wrong size (13) and it reflects the width of my board (wide) as the correct size is 11 resulting that I also have too wide board. To learn it's ok, but if you can avoid this mistake, you will save money. My plan is to buy the correct size boot as soon the 2017 line goes on sale (around January here in Canada) and later I replace the board with something like Camber between the bindings and Rocker on the nose and tail (RCR).

Bindings is something the you can think in the long run. Pick some medium flex from Burton and you will be good for several seasons.

Cloths, here I have good feedback.

In my first winter here in Canada (I am originally from South America) I bought a simple insulation pants (CAD $48) to use when I was riding my bike on winter, for that purpose it was perfect, but when I started using when I was snowboarding in my second time that I hit the slopes, the pants tear apart right between the legs, so time to buy new pants.

At that moment, nothing was on good deal, then I bought snowboarding pants from SportChek, their in-house brand named Firefly. Paid CAD $65.00 and it's a good pants for the price until I realize that the front pockets zippers opens while you are in movement, so the movement of yur legs, even when snowboarding, makes the zippers open. No way!!! You can lost your wallet or whatever with this, so I started using the pockets of my jacket to store my wallet and other important small things.

But, last month I got some DC pants for CAD $58.00 on a really nice deal (down from CAD $139.00) and I hope that the zipper will be closed all the time and on snowboard season I will sell my Firefly pants to compensate the cost of the new pants.

Also, I was using regular waterproof jackets, they work ok, but they are not large on height enough. What I want to mean? When you fall the jacket will go up your wait and snow will enter on you pants and you will start getting wet (not good), so now I have 2 snowboard jackets, one from ADIDAS (bought on their sale for CAD $39.00) and another from DC that I bought for CAD $47.00.

So in my case you can see that I spent money wrongly on my gear, specially on boots and now I have to work more hours to save money to buy the right component and I don't believe that I will sell my 13 boots for a good price.
 
#26 ·
Thank you for the input. Especially for the break down between the advanced and beginner boards.

As for the boards here, local stores only sell the Japan maker boards (except one place that was having a going out of buisness sell, but thier largest board was a 157) and I have no ideal what I`m getting on the Japan boads, and dont trust sellers to make a honest recommendation as they are just trying to sell something (car dealers are the same), so I am trying to order from online. evo | Mountain, Street & Water | Community, Culture & Giving Back www.rei.com www.wiredsports.com The House ? Outdoor Gear, Outerwear & Bikes - Save up to 70% . I haven`t found any others that ship here for a decent price yet.

As for quickly outgrowing the board and needing another. If I get past the basics and get comfortable, and enjoy the sport it will be worth it. Especially if it`s cheap enough. Right now I just want to learn to enjoy the sport.

-The first year I was snowboarding, I went 6 times. All on rentals. Wish I had paid more notice to the boards. But they were 158, 161, and 163. I want to say that I could not turn that 163 for nothing!! All with a class (group setting) to teach me how to get down the mountain. Then I could get down the hill (first stop on the ropeway) without falling too many times. The last time I went I got on the lift and had a fun time on the first and second stops. Only fell a few times. I have a problem going to fast, not being able to turn and stopping. One of the instructors took me to the top of the mountain and said ok, just (side slide) down like this and he went down. Sorry, we wernt speaking in English so the wording may be wrong. but anyways, I looked at how far down the down was and turned around and walked off the mountain. If I made a mistake up there, I would have died. And I make to many mistakes to risk that. I was having fun on the first and second stop, why did he have to bring me up here and scare the daylights out of me?? I dont like heights either.
-The second year, I went twice. Still suck, but had a good time. stayed on the first 2 stops of the ropeway thing. But I was able to go down the mountain without falling too many times.
-The third year, I didn`t go, not once.
-This year, I am about an hour or two from a small ski resort. I have no friends or aquantances that like snowboarding (just moved here) so will most likely go alone. But am guessing that I will go 3 times this year.
I am going because it gets me out of the house. I hate being in the house and I want to enjoy it, I really do! but until I get past the (cant turn, cant stop, going to fast and so am scared because dont know how to slow down and what happens if I fall at this speed) I cant really enjoy it. So, If I get past the basics, become comfortable on the board, and start really having fun on it, I will be happy to buy another board. Especially if the first board was cheap enough. However, If I spend 400-500 on my first board I wont be happy to turn around and buy another board.
As for the equipment I have. I have cheap no name snow pants and jacket that has served me faithfully for the last 3 years. I have new burton invader boots, size 10 and new burton freestyle bindings size M because I picked them up for $50ish each on sale at the going out of sale store I mentioned earlier. It`s amazing the pants have held up as many times as I have fallen. But they still look in good shape.
Now I just need a board......
 
#27 ·
shipping to japan is going to be a bitch... do you have a APO address? if not, might be better just to buy local. Japanese people tend to like high quality stuff, so try asking a shop owner, they have pride in what they do. or try to use japanese ebay (I think they like yahoo auctions.. no idea if that changed.) to find something.
 
#28 ·
I have an APO address to ship too. Shipping is still difficult as many companies still dont want to ship here though. I was looking at the K2 Raygun that was mentioned earlier. It doesn`t look bad. But the review says it looses edge hold on when you get to snowment, what is that? also, the review has two places that contradict on riding switch. I change right foot first and left first from time to time (feels almost same to me and dont really have a preferance yet) also i still cant link very well so its easier for me to switch to the forward foot than to try and turn the way the board is facing when I get to the side of the run and need to head in the other direction (go ahead and laugh), hopefully this will change. But my question is, can I switch with this board? In the review it says it is a directional board and I need a twin to ride switch, but then later it said this would be a good board to learn switch.
Also, a 159 was recomended, but I have been told over and over to go with 160 up because I`m a fatbody, what do you think of a 161? I know that my low weight if I can get back in shape is 180, but I vary from 180-215
 
#31 ·
Now ive been thinking surely k2 would make a version of this board that would fit people between size 9 and 11. But ive looked and looked and all the size charts are the same. Up to 61 is size 9 and then the wides are 11+.
Surely the maker didnt make a mistake right? I mean isnt the most common boot size 10 and a half?
The funney thing is the more i read about this board the more i want one, but it would need to fit my feet.
Has anyone uses any of these boards with a 10 or 11 boot? How did it work out?
 
#32 ·
switch is the least of your worries. I know there aren't a lot of sites to go to for snowboarding, but you really need to take a whole salt shaker when looking at thegoodride. The Top 5 Beginner Boards Of 2016 - The Angry Snowboarder

251 waist width should fit a size 10 boot perfectly fine, but if you're that nervous, go for the 161. going from a 159->161 won't make a HUGE difference when learning.

evo charts are estimates.
 
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