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Old 12-17-2010, 07:16 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 6
Default Burton Mayhem and waxing confusion

This is my board:

Why the waxing issue with this board in particular? Because of the big "BURTON" letters. Having scraped all the wax off the board (and I believe I do a pretty decent job of this) you can feel the split between each letter and the rest of the base. That is, the whole base is not one surface but a rather tight connection of letters and base.

Probably normal I guess but I'm just kind of looking for an explanation or peace of mind or something. It seems like a bad thing to me.

It irritates me especially though, when I think I overheated the board during a wax job and ended up with this:

Another shot of why I think I've overheated it. This is after waxing and scraping:

Comments on these surface-dividing letters, or on my botched wax job?

Oh, one more question. When trying to avoid overheating a base, how hot is too hot? I am looking for a non-subjective description here because all I ever read and hear is "not too hot". I don't know what to look out for.

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Old 12-17-2010, 12:47 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 169

So I'm thinking don't sweat it at all man. I picked up a Capita Sierrascope and it has the same thing going on. The board is brand new and never been waxed. The base has "CAPiTA on it, and you can feel all the transitions from purple to black (base is purple and letters are black). I'm gonna wax it tonight, but I don't expect this will go away. I think its just part of the construction. I'm sorry I can't speak on anything technical, but I'm saying that my new board has the same thing that you're experiencing.

As for overheating the base, from all my research, I found that you want the base to warm up. This promotes wax uptake, as you need to "activate" the pores in your base. As for technicalities, I like the base to get warm to the touch on the top sheet. I'm feeling the topsheet as I move the iron. What I read and watched said do not let the top she get "hot" to touch, if so, stop immediately and cool down. Hope this helps.
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Old 12-17-2010, 02:05 PM   #3 (permalink)
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 42

my burton hero has the same thing from brand new
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Old 12-17-2010, 08:50 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 8

It's hard to tell from a pic of you over heated the base or not while applying wax. Here's how I hot wax my board and xc skis (same method).

-Wipe down with base cleaner if the base is dirty, if not its ok to skip this step.

-One pass tip to tail with the brass brush to open up the pores.

-Determine Iron temp, you want the iron just hot enough to melt the wax, but not so hot that the wax smokes when you touch it to the iron.

-Drip wax on your board

-Smooth out the drips of wax to evenly coat the base of the board, run the iron over the base in a constant motion. Never stop moving the iron and try not to over heat an area. The method I use is while constantly moving the iron over the board, I never pass over molten wax with the iron. If I need to do another pass over the base I wait until the wax has started to solidify before I re-iron it. Also you want to avoid a dry iron on a dry base, always coat your iron surface with a layer of wax before you try to smooth out your dripped on wax.

-Once you have a even coat on the base let the board cool to room temp

-scrape with plexi scraper

-quick pass with brass brush if the is still some surface wax left

-finally brush tip to tail with your favorite brushes. I prefer a white nylon then horse hair.

You need to be careful not to overheat your board, the pores in the p-tex will contract and hinder its ability to absorb wax.

Minor heat damage can be corrected with a base grind, major heat damage is something you will have to live with.
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