If you want to minimize the likelihood of getting hung-up while boardsliding/jibbing, I would definitely recommend re-beveling your board before detuning it.
Detuning refers to the dulling/rounding-off of your snowboard's sharp edges with a mill file.
As far as I know, there are two basic types of detuning.
The less drastic type of detuning is when it is done to the the area immediately before and after a snowboard's contact points--where the sidecut/effective-edge begins at one end of the board and ends at the other end of the board. I have never done this type of detuning myself, but this is my understanding of the process. In this case, the detuning is done in order to lessen the degree at which the board engages its edge(s)--how hard/quickly it starts/initiates a turn/carve. For example, someone might feel that their board is overly reactive for their liking when initiating turns. So a remedy for this condition would be to gradually detune the board's contact points until its turn initiation has been degraded to the owner/rider's liking--hence the term "detuning."
The more drastic type of detuning is when it is done to a snowboard's entire sidecut/effective-edge. Likewise, I have never done this type of detuning either, but again, my understanding of the process is as follows. Detuning like this is supposedly/apparently the type of detuning that dedicated/fanatical jib/rail-riders utilize to mimimize and (hopefully) prevent hang-ups (entirely). However, detuning to this degree severely diminishes a board's edging/turning/carving ability. I've heard (and agree in theory) that boards with Magne-Traction can be detuned like this and still edge/turn/carve decently due to the 5 additional MTX contact points.
Adjusting the beveling of your board is a completely different approach to avoiding hang-ups. I think that this is the best approach since it will decrease the likelihood of hang-ups while still maintaining maximum edge performance.
If you don't know or understand what a snowboard's beveling is, then Rome's "Board Tech/Edge Beveling" webpage has some pretty self-explanatory and straight-forward descriptions and diagrams that you should check out. Basically, Rome uses a 1*/1* base/side bevel on their all-mountain-focused boards, a 2*/2* base/side bevel on their park-focused boards, and a 3*/3* base/side bevel on their jib-focused boards. Check it out here:
Board Tech | Rome Snowboard Design Syndicate 2011
I believe that the vast majority of snowboards are manufactured with a 1*/1* base/side bevel.
I would recommend increasing your board's beveling before detuning its edges and degrading its edge performance.