|12-28-2010, 11:26 AM||#1 (permalink)|
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Louisville, KY
New board maintenance and prep
Just got my 10' Arbor nightrain today. Went with Salomon F20 boots and Salomon Relay bindings. My first new setup! I have been borrowing a buddies burton cruizer for a few years now and finally decided to pull the trigger on some top notch equipment of my own. I really want to make sure everything is cared for properly. I watched the videos in the maintenance section and feel assured i can wax myself. Im going this weekend to perfect north, outside cincy, oh. We have had some snow, but being built on fake snow for the most part and the ice the east coast gets i want some help on when to wax my new board, it seems everyone prefers all-temp wax for my conditions-is that right?, and anymore pointers for assembly, long-term care, and etc for a brand new set-up. Thanks in advance...
|12-28-2010, 08:02 PM||#3 (permalink)|
Join Date: Mar 2009
Brand-new snowboards come "ready-to-ride" so all you really have to do is mount some bindings and go.
You could however, give it a hot wax, but since all snowboards leave the factory (already) waxed, you'll be OK either way.
It's been my experience that snowboards usually become noticeably slower on their third day of use after a hot-wax, so I generally try to get at least two days out of every hot-wax before I re-wax. As a matter of fact, I rode my 2009 Rome Design 165 for three straight days over this last Thanksgiving Holiday and it was noticeably slower on the third day than the first two...
Some people may/will recommend that a brand-new snowboard be detuned, but I am not one of those people because I do not believe this to be the case. And if you don't know what detuning is--then definitely don't worry about it and don't try to do it...
You could/can towel-dry your snowboard and its edges whenever you finish riding it to prevent your edges from rusting. Medium gummi stones are a good way to rub away the rust on edges when rusting does occur...
Keep your edges smooth and sharp for maximum performance...
Another thing, I don't know if you've ever actually used Salomon Relay Bindings before buying yours or not, but they utilize a very unusual and unique flexible heelcup design/construction that most people seem to shy away from. I've never used them myself so I cannot speak from experience, but I'm also not at all interested in trying them either... I would definitely recommend you go with a binding that utilizes the much more common and basically standard rigid baseplate/heelcup type of design/construction instead of those Salomon Relays. The vast majority of bindings are of the rigid baseplate/heelcup variety for good reason--because it works.
I presently own/use:
In recent years I have also owned/used:
a pair of 1st year Rome Targas
a pair of 1st year Union C4 Elites
a pair of Burton Cartels
and a pair of 2nd year Ride Contrabands
For the 2005/2006 season, I bought a set of Burton P1 Carbons which I liked very much--until one of the full-carbon highbacks cracked after only about a week or so, that is. After Burton replaced the cracked highback under warranty, I decided to sell them and I bought a pair of 1st year Rome Targas to finish out 05/06.
The Targas were awesome bindings and my favorites until I got my Unions after the 05/06 season had ended.
In 06/07, I split my days of riding between my Romes and my Unions. The Unions and the Targas performed very similarly. But because the Union ratchets would crank-down much tighter than the Rome ratchetsI preferred my Unions to my Romes and later sold the Romes.
My Unions were my favorite bindings until I got my CO2s in 07/08.
My CO2s' super-cushy gel-filled ankle straps and canted highbacks trumped my Unions to become my new and still favorite bindings.
Because I like my CO2s so much, I also bought my slightly-softer P1.1s and slightly-stiffer C60s for a slightly-different response/feel.
I'd be willing to bet that most people would prefer a traditional rigid baseplate/heelcup type binding over a Salomon Relay Binding, and for this reason, I would recommend that you return those Relays and get yourself a pair of regular rigid bindings--there are plenty of choose from...
Besides the ones I've mentioned above, I don't really have much experience with any other bindings, but some of the most/more popular bindings nowadays seem to be:
Union Force SLs
Union Force MCs
AND MANY MORE...
I think that that Arbor Nighttrain that you just bought has a fairly powerful mid-stiff flex and I'd recommend pairing it with mid-stiff binding.
Good luck and take care.
Last edited by PATKOUG; 12-28-2010 at 09:59 PM.
|12-28-2010, 08:26 PM||#4 (permalink)|
Join Date: Aug 2010
make sure your binding angels are to your liking, take skrewdriver up to test out a few different settings to get them just right if you haven't already apart from that not muchhh! just make sure you have watched SnowWolfs videos and read all about the whole wax thing in that section of "boards" Enjoy your own board! It's now a commitment ;D
|12-28-2010, 10:46 PM||#5 (permalink)|
Join Date: Feb 2008
Personally I get better results with cold-range wax than with all-temp (which is just mid-range temp), it seems to get me almost 3 full days or a weekend and 2 night sessions.
Just get in the habit of looking at your base at the end of the day. Personally, I just keep an old towel in my car and wipe it down in the parking lot before heading home, pretty simple to give it a quick once over before heading home. You'll get used to what your board needs pretty quick.
Last edited by Bones; 12-28-2010 at 10:50 PM.