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What to do with my edges...

6K views 13 replies 5 participants last post by  ollie 
#1 ·
As of now my new park board is untouched since I bought it as far as tuning/detuning. I've used it 5 times so far and I think I'm in need of a base edge bevel, a full detune to dull them down, or both. I'm not great at the park, so I usually just 50-50 rails and boxes, but the past couple times I've been getting into boardsliding boxes so I feel like I need to get a good detune.

I have a Burton Twin which I heard comes without a base edge bevel, so I'm guessing this will become a problem as I start doing more boardslides. I plan on taking my board to a local shop to have my edges worked on. I live in a dorm so I don't wax or plan on tuning my own edges in my room, since I don't have a work bench or anything to work on. My question is, what should I tell the guy at the shop? Detune and a base edge bevel? And how many degrees would you guys suggest?

Thanks in advance!
 
#3 ·
I took the board to the shop today, got it waxed and the guy filed part of it down for me. He said it would be best to start off my detuning the tip and tail contact points which is what he did, then he sold me what he called a "stone" to dull the rest down and smooth out and nicks and jagged parts in the edge. He didn't touch part of the edge between my feet.

The main reason I wanted it detuned was to boardslide rails and boxes without catching an edge, so I feel like I would need to detune the edge between my feet as well. Does this sound right? Also, will my board be slipping all over the place or will it be hard to turn with such dull contact points?

Sorry for being such a noob when it comes to detuning, but out of my 8 years of snowboarding, 7 have been spent on a 168cm groomer zoomer that I keep sharp edges all the time. This is my first park board so I'm a little clueless
 
#5 ·
What you might wanna do is get a file at the end of the file wrap scotch tape 4to5 times around it.lay your board flat(base facing you)gide the file grom tip to tail(with the side of the file with the tape on it od the base)this will create a small bevel as you glide the file.Than use your stone to smooth out what you just filed.Remember not to go crazy with the file just a couple of passes(use a sharpie and color the edge in)as you pass the file you'll see the ink disapear which will help in knowing how much you've filed off.Doing this will bevel some without killing you edges.You can also you glide the board across the box or rail to test it before you acually hit it.bring the stone to the park just incase you gotta do adjustments.Note this is what i did and it seems to work.But dont round of you edges especially if you live in the eastcoast since we dont get powder,cause turning will be a bitch.
 
#6 ·
Thanks for the responses guys
 
#7 ·
This is kind of obvious, but just in case you didn't think of it, GO SLOW / LITTLE BY LITTLE. On the nose/tail, go all-out. Detune the fuck out of it. On the sides, do just a little at first. See how it rides. If you don't like it, detune a little bit more. Take it out for a few more rides. Detune more if you still don't like, etc. The point of going slow is that if you detune TOO much, it can be almost impossible to then sharpen-up again.
 
G
#8 ·
I tune my board in my dorm man. Well, I actually live in a small suite dorm, so I do it in our small living room, but its still a dorm. You could defiantly do it in your room. Just get to boxes of equal height (I use two coolers) and take some trash bags and cut them open and lay them on the floor under the coolers. just lay your board on the coolers or whatever you are using and you should be good to go.
 
G
#9 ·
since you have a burton your gonna def wanna get your edges beveled out to 2 to 4 degrees. burton is one of the only brands that doesnt bevel their edges factory direct. your gonna notice carving that its gonna not catch as much so its gonna take a little to get used to but its worth it to get into boardslides tailslides nose slides and 270s and spinning on boxes and rails. itll help you so much. so tell them to bevel your edges to 2 degrees to start off with. go like 2 times like that and see how it is then message me back and ill tell you from there. 2 is what most companies do rome does 4 degrees. burton for some reason does 0 to 1 idk why. but most of their boards are 0.
 
#10 ·
When I originally went to the shop and asked for a 2 degree base edge bevel, the guy said that I wouldn't notice a 2 degree bevel as far as boardsliding rails goes, and even 3 or 4 degrees wouldnt do much. He said beveling the base edge just makes the edge sharper which he explained is what I shouldn't want. He said I'm best off just dulling the shit out of everything if I really don't want to catch an edge.

I think I need to find another shop. :dunno: I definitely rather bevel the base than dull the whole edge. I don't want to feel like I'm on a board that won't carve or something.

Thanks again for the help everyone
 
G
#13 ·
Hi,

I would suggest you 2-3 degrees if you wanna hit the rail while still riding down hill full speed.
More than 3 deg and you might not feel it good while turning.
Basically when your deck comes from the factory, the edges are very sharp and you should definitively sharp them starting from the nose and tip which are not necessary for turning.

Check out this vid, it's a nice introduction:
edges bevel
 
#14 ·
hey i just got a butron retro twin there n used it for about a week. bit of a tuning noob here but written on the board is what i think is the bevel and the edge angles but im not sure because it says base; 2degrees, edge; 0degrees... is this 'base' angle the bevel or what? and im guessing that the 'edge' angle is the angle of the verticle part of the edge? i thought burton didnt bevel their boards etc?? cheers
 
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