Dealing with bindings that come loose all the time... - Page 3 - Snowboarding Forum - Snowboard Enthusiast Forums
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post #21 of 33 (permalink) Old 02-26-2011, 06:53 PM
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I put pink leopard print griptape on my topsheet, just in case I have in epiphany and I realize that I was destined to become a gay snowskater.
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post #22 of 33 (permalink) Old 02-27-2011, 02:49 AM Thread Starter
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Well i put a healthy dose of blue loctite on this time instead of a dab as im used to using.

Ill go get some nail polish next if this bond breaks again...thanks for all the tips.

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post #23 of 33 (permalink) Old 02-27-2011, 10:25 PM
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I just had this exact same problem.. It was mostly my front coming lose first (I'm guessing caz its the side I like doing most my pressing and shit on) I only had it start happening since I got my new board. The bindings were moving around and coming lose. Came to be mine were just a hair to long.. The holes in my academy were not as deep as my ride boards. I could actually see a dent protruding thru on the base from where they were. I went to the ski shop and they had some that were a little shorter and put those in. Haven't had a problem since and the dents in the base from them bottoming out are gone, and the bindings stay snug and in place.


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post #24 of 33 (permalink) Old 03-01-2011, 01:09 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by henry06x View Post
I just had this exact same problem.. It was mostly my front coming lose first (I'm guessing caz its the side I like doing most my pressing and shit on) I only had it start happening since I got my new board. The bindings were moving around and coming lose. Came to be mine were just a hair to long.. The holes in my academy were not as deep as my ride boards. I could actually see a dent protruding thru on the base from where they were. I went to the ski shop and they had some that were a little shorter and put those in. Haven't had a problem since and the dents in the base from them bottoming out are gone, and the bindings stay snug and in place.
Interesting, but i dont think thats my problem as it worked fine before.

I think honestly the problem was that i didnt remove my bindings last season when i stored my board, why i dont know but i found out i didnt when i took it back out. Those bindings were on there tight as fuck i had to torque it hard to loosen them. Wonder if i screwed up the inserts abit leaving it tight like that all offseason...

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post #25 of 33 (permalink) Old 01-19-2012, 02:23 PM
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just got a new pair of bindings with thread lock on them...is it normal that you need to put a lil more preasure when screwing the binding to your board..compared to screws with no thread lock?
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post #26 of 33 (permalink) Old 01-19-2012, 08:54 PM
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Yeah, the initial screw in will be a little firm. Once the loctite has grooves in it, it'll be easier to screw in and out.

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post #27 of 33 (permalink) Old 01-21-2012, 12:02 PM
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Just a quick question do you have another snowboard,try the bindings on there and see if they still lossen.

Then you will know if the bolts are to long/short or if your stretched the insert
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post #28 of 33 (permalink) Old 03-05-2012, 03:03 PM
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Nothing sucks more than loose bindings on the mountain.

Was at Copper Mountain once when one of my bindings came off and I could not for the life of me get it back on, it was a deep powder day and the bindings were iced over which made it difficult. This happened within minutes of last lifts closing so I was stuck for time. They had to snowmobile me off with one of the dog patrollers looking for people at the tree line. It took an hour to get back down due to his route. Was kind of fun actually, but something I'd rather not repeat. Now I check tightness at every break.
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post #29 of 33 (permalink) Old 03-05-2012, 03:12 PM
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Maybe consider purchasing binding screws that have the 'Loc Tite' coating.

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post #30 of 33 (permalink) Old 03-05-2012, 03:58 PM
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Just loctite them yourself. The key to threadlocking compound working is to use just enough so the thread troughs get compound and letting it set for at least 24 hours at room temperature. Otherwise, it won't work. I've used it on hundreds of folding knives (pivot screw) and motorcycles as well. It works if you use it right.

Keep in mind that threadlocking compound doesn't keep screws tight. It just prevents relaxation due to acoustic noise, which a snowboard (especially at high speed or over textures like granular snowpack) experiences lots of. The actual tightness of threaded members is caused by the longitudinal stresses developed by straining the bolted members when tightening past the point where physical interference occurs. This increases the normal forces on the planes of the threads which is what develops the friction that causes resistance to torque. In other words, if you don't put some muscle behind it, threadlocker won't do anything by itself. Get yourself a quality number 3 phillips head screwdriver with a good handle.
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