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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-12-2011, 06:04 PM Thread Starter
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Cheap substitue for true bar?

I'm new to board maintenance, but in most other sports I've always preferred to maintain my gear myself. I've read that base leveling is like the hardest thing to do, and I'm not sure if I would choose to tackle that myself or not... but at the very least I'd like to be able to inspect it myself (chances are it is fine right now). But the true bars I've found are all near $50. Any ideas for cheap substitutes, like a construction level maybe? Though I'm not sure one of those is guaranteed to be flat... just level.
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-12-2011, 10:45 PM
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A framing square might work.
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-13-2011, 12:06 AM
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WTF do you even need a true bar it's not like you have a stone grinder and are tuning your base yourself in your garage. There is and I mean IS no reason to even caring if your base is 100% flat as you are not riding a mono ski hard boot set up.


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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-13-2011, 01:44 AM
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Just ride your board across a parking lot, should get that base perfect
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-13-2011, 01:58 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by BurtonAvenger View Post
WTF do you even need a true bar it's not like you have a stone grinder and are tuning your base yourself in your garage. There is and I mean IS no reason to even caring if your base is 100% flat as you are not riding a mono ski hard boot set up.
Well, as I said I'm new to board maintenance (and relatively new to boarding period). I'd read it was important your base is neither convex nor concave. It appears to me now that there are varying opinions on that.
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-13-2011, 02:56 PM
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I'd read it was important your base is neither convex nor concave.
Meh.

Unless you're racing and need to find every nanosecond you can, a perfect base is not a goal worth striving for.

If you think it's riding funny and suspect you'll need a grind, then run a framing square or a level down it and see how out of whack it is. Then take it to your grinding shop and have them do it with a true bar.

Bottom line: it's overkill for a DIY'er, you don't have a grinder to fix any problems a true bar would reveal anyway.
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-13-2011, 06:10 PM
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Minor imperfections in flatness will never be noticed as the board is hardly ever flat when riding anyway. Either you will have it on edge or flexed some way or the snow itself will be causing the board to flex as it is hardly ever level to begin with. Like was said, unless it is really out of whack or you are racing the base being off a bit will be imperceptible.
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-13-2011, 06:15 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Sudden_Death View Post
Minor imperfections in flatness will never be noticed as the board is hardly ever flat when riding anyway. Either you will have it on edge or flexed some way or the snow itself will be causing the board to flex as it is hardly ever level to begin with. Like was said, unless it is really out of whack or you are racing the base being off a bit will be imperceptible.
Good points, I didn't think about those. Thanks.
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-13-2011, 07:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Sudden_Death View Post
Minor imperfections in flatness will never be noticed as the board is hardly ever flat when riding anyway. Either you will have it on edge or flexed some way or the snow itself will be causing the board to flex as it is hardly ever level to begin with. Like was said, unless it is really out of whack or you are racing the base being off a bit will be imperceptible.
Not to mention many boards have variations of rocker shapes and profiles, which make the board not flat on purpose.

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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-14-2011, 02:03 PM
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Use a square, a level or pull a piece of cord/string/fishing line taut across edge to edge.

I like to maintain my own stuff too, but I draw the line at base welds and stone grinding. Minor base repairs, edge tuning and waxing are cost effecient to do yourself. The others are not unless you have access to a shop's setup or just have tons of money lying around the space to put together your own setup. Even the maintenance I listed can be expensive to get tooled up for. A good quality base edge file guide and side edge file guide will be $30-50 a piece.
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