Cheap substitue for true bar? - Snowboarding Forum

The111 · 07-12-2011, 06:04 PM

I'm new to board maintenance, but in most other sports I've always preferred to maintain my gear myself. I've read that base leveling is like the hardest thing to do, and I'm not sure if I would choose to tackle that myself or not... but at the very least I'd like to be able to inspect it myself (chances are it is fine right now). But the true bars I've found are all near $50. Any ideas for cheap substitutes, like a construction level maybe? Though I'm not sure one of those is guaranteed to be flat... just level.

Sudden_Death · 07-12-2011, 10:45 PM

A framing square might work.

BurtonAvenger · 07-13-2011, 12:06 AM

WTF do you even need a true bar it's not like you have a stone grinder and are tuning your base yourself in your garage. There is and I mean IS no reason to even caring if your base is 100% flat as you are not riding a mono ski hard boot set up.

Qball · 07-13-2011, 01:44 AM

Just ride your board across a parking lot, should get that base perfect

The111 · 07-13-2011, 01:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BurtonAvenger

WTF do you even need a true bar it's not like you have a stone grinder and are tuning your base yourself in your garage. There is and I mean IS no reason to even caring if your base is 100% flat as you are not riding a mono ski hard boot set up.

Well, as I said I'm new to board maintenance (and relatively new to boarding period). I'd read it was important your base is neither convex nor concave. It appears to me now that there are varying opinions on that.

Bones · 07-13-2011, 02:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by The111

I'd read it was important your base is neither convex nor concave.

Meh.

Unless you're racing and need to find every nanosecond you can, a perfect base is not a goal worth striving for.

If you think it's riding funny and suspect you'll need a grind, then run a framing square or a level down it and see how out of whack it is. Then take it to your grinding shop and have them do it with a true bar.

Bottom line: it's overkill for a DIY'er, you don't have a grinder to fix any problems a true bar would reveal anyway.

Sudden_Death · 07-13-2011, 06:10 PM

Minor imperfections in flatness will never be noticed as the board is hardly ever flat when riding anyway. Either you will have it on edge or flexed some way or the snow itself will be causing the board to flex as it is hardly ever level to begin with. Like was said, unless it is really out of whack or you are racing the base being off a bit will be imperceptible.

The111 · 07-13-2011, 06:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sudden_Death

Minor imperfections in flatness will never be noticed as the board is hardly ever flat when riding anyway. Either you will have it on edge or flexed some way or the snow itself will be causing the board to flex as it is hardly ever level to begin with. Like was said, unless it is really out of whack or you are racing the base being off a bit will be imperceptible.

Good points, I didn't think about those. Thanks.

**HoboMaster** · 07-13-2011, 07:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sudden_Death

Minor imperfections in flatness will never be noticed as the board is hardly ever flat when riding anyway. Either you will have it on edge or flexed some way or the snow itself will be causing the board to flex as it is hardly ever level to begin with. Like was said, unless it is really out of whack or you are racing the base being off a bit will be imperceptible.

Not to mention many boards have variations of rocker shapes and profiles, which make the board not flat on purpose.

CheeseForSteeze · 07-14-2011, 02:03 PM

Use a square, a level or pull a piece of cord/string/fishing line taut across edge to edge.

I like to maintain my own stuff too, but I draw the line at base welds and stone grinding. Minor base repairs, edge tuning and waxing are cost effecient to do yourself. The others are not unless you have access to a shop's setup or just have tons of money lying around the space to put together your own setup. Even the maintenance I listed can be expensive to get tooled up for. A good quality base edge file guide and side edge file guide will be $30-50 a piece.

07-12-2011, 06:04 PM	#1 (permalink)
The111 Member Join Date: Jan 2011 Posts: 60	Cheap substitue for true bar? I'm new to board maintenance, but in most other sports I've always preferred to maintain my gear myself. I've read that base leveling is like the hardest thing to do, and I'm not sure if I would choose to tackle that myself or not... but at the very least I'd like to be able to inspect it myself (chances are it is fine right now). But the true bars I've found are all near $50. Any ideas for cheap substitutes, like a construction level maybe? Though I'm not sure one of those is guaranteed to be flat... just level.

07-13-2011, 12:06 AM	#3 (permalink)
BurtonAvenger Veteran Member Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Mountains Posts: 8,020	WTF do you even need a true bar it's not like you have a stone grinder and are tuning your base yourself in your garage. There is and I mean IS no reason to even caring if your base is 100% flat as you are not riding a mono ski hard boot set up. __________________ Angry Snowboarder Because someone has to call it how they see it!

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07-12-2011, 10:45 PM	#2 (permalink)
Sudden_Death Veteran Member Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Ottawa, On Posts: 659	A framing square might work.

07-13-2011, 01:44 AM	#4 (permalink)
Qball Veteran Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Mt. Hood, Oregon Posts: 1,272	Just ride your board across a parking lot, should get that base perfect

07-13-2011, 06:10 PM	#7 (permalink)
Sudden_Death Veteran Member Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Ottawa, On Posts: 659	Minor imperfections in flatness will never be noticed as the board is hardly ever flat when riding anyway. Either you will have it on edge or flexed some way or the snow itself will be causing the board to flex as it is hardly ever level to begin with. Like was said, unless it is really out of whack or you are racing the base being off a bit will be imperceptible.

07-14-2011, 02:03 PM	#10 (permalink)
CheeseForSteeze -LIFETIME MEMBER- Join Date: May 2011 Posts: 1,712	Use a square, a level or pull a piece of cord/string/fishing line taut across edge to edge. I like to maintain my own stuff too, but I draw the line at base welds and stone grinding. Minor base repairs, edge tuning and waxing are cost effecient to do yourself. The others are not unless you have access to a shop's setup or just have tons of money lying around the space to put together your own setup. Even the maintenance I listed can be expensive to get tooled up for. A good quality base edge file guide and side edge file guide will be $30-50 a piece.